Blogs from Tierra del Fuego, Argentina, South America - page 49

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South America » Argentina » Tierra del Fuego » Ushuaia December 14th 2006

¨The secret is to be silent, look North, toward immense America, and decode what the wind tells you. Galloping, shouts of the Indian raider cutting throats, gunshots, brandy festivities. The dew. The inevitable calm. Cries of captive women sounding like orgasms. Later, allow yourself to become possessed. Reincarnate in the ferocity of the Indian Guaicaiperu Listen to the lemanjä, to Ochum, to Obatalä. Take in the mysticism and idealism of the murals of Mexico and then switch, adapting them to the current commercialism, codes in this senseless global village--Armani-Dolce and Gabbana-missiles to Belgrade-virtual reality. Fighting with a bare machete. Feel yourself among the followers of the prophet Marti. Feel you´re Maradona! Drink a midday caipirinha until the sun goes down. Gather a group to sing in restaurants: cuatro, maracas, guitar and harp. Go to play with ... read more
Fin del Mundo

South America » Argentina » Tierra del Fuego » Ushuaia December 14th 2006

We got the diarhea and malaria pills, a couple shirts, long underwear, cameras, a tripod for the cameras, and not much else. We begin our trip from the bottom of the world Ushuaia, Argentina, and head north by land until we reach Birmingham, Marietta, Gainesville, and Statesville. The plan is to hit up a good-bit-o Patagonia, work our way up Chile, sneak back into arid northern Argentina, and cross into Bolivia. Once there, we start consuming the diarhea pills. We´ll linger around La Paz and Lake Titicaca for a while, then navigate ourselves through Peru; Machu Pichu, ruins, elegant mountain folk, and on to the Amazon. We hope to hammock ourselves down to the Brazil-Colombia-Peru border via The Amo. Then hop on a hand-crafted flying machine on into Columbia where we´ll find our way to Panama ... read more

South America » Argentina » Tierra del Fuego » Ushuaia December 12th 2006

Crossing the border once again into Argentina, I arrived in El Calafate keen to see the famous Perito Moreno glacier. After a hike of about 1 and a half hours in the surrounding forest, I found a spot away from the crowds and sat back and watched the glacier in action. The glacier is one of the most active in South America and I was treated to a superb show of ice avalanches. During my 3 hours or so sat at the lookout I witnessed huge pillars of ice come crashing down, the creation and collapse of an ice cave, and a river disappear. It was compelling viewing in a truly beautiful location, and a great experience. El Calafate itself is a touristy town but not without charm. There is a nature reserve a short walk ... read more
Perito Moreno glacier
Las Torres
Lake Nordenskjold


Sadly we had to say goodbye to Torres del Paine and continue our journey south. After a brief stop in a drizzly Puerto Natales we headed on down the coast and had a wonderful visit to the Otway Sound Penguin Colony. The Magellanic Penguins return annually to this spot between October and March to lay eggs and raise their young. Initially we watched from quite a distance, but at one point, an inquisitive penguin popped his head out of a burrow and walked right out in front of me. I was so busy looking at the others further away that I nearly tripped over him! I had a real magical moment as I crouched down to watch him and he almost came and kissed my camera. What a cutie. I could happily have taken him home. ... read more
Another new friend!
Boy do they know how to have fun!
Punta Arenas

South America » Argentina » Tierra del Fuego » Ushuaia November 30th 2006

Bonjour! Quelque chose d'assez particulier s'est produit ici il y a deux jours. Pour commencer, sachez que je suis toujours à Ushuaïa, ville la plus au sud de l'Argentine et du monde. La température est pas particulièrement agréable ici. C'est très gris, pluvieux et froid. Ça ressemble donc beaucoup à novembre a la maison. Ushuaïa ne regorge pas d'attractions vraiment excitantes. Par contre, c'est situé à proximité du Parc National Tierra del Fuego. Mais comme on a fait pas mal de parcs nationaux dans les dernières semaines, on s'est abstenu pour celui la. Mardi matin, on est allé visiter le Museo Fin del Mundo (Musée de la Fin du Monde). Non ça ne porte pas sur l'apocalypse, mais bien sur la position géographique d’Ushuaïa. Par ailleurs, le nom Terre de Feu vient du fait que quand ... read more
Ushuaia
Ushuaia de la Baie
Ushuaia de la Baie V.2

South America » Argentina » Tierra del Fuego » Ushuaia November 29th 2006

Ushuaia, the final frontier, or that is what the tourist board would have you believe. Although you could say that this is the southern most city in the world every settlement that has more than one house from here to the antarctic claims the same title in the hope that they can sell a few more t-shirts. This is however the city that offers an official looking 'FIN DEL MUNDO' stamp at the post office and that was a good enough reason for me to spend both time and money bus hoping down 3000km from santiago to here crossing into argentina back into chile then argentina then chile and then finally back to argentina. I don't think that Chile and Argentina really sat down and considered practical bus travel when they argued over that border. Needless ... read more
Glaciar Grey

South America » Argentina » Tierra del Fuego » Ushuaia November 29th 2006

if any of you guys want to know what the end of the world looks like this is it...wow impressive hey...yep i feel like this tour has achieved something. been cruzin back lately drinking it up and doing the usual. sorting my thing s out for the next leg of my tour...planning to learn a bit of spanish considering i pretty much have no idea what the hell people are saying around here. took a pic which i like........ it was taken at a post in ushuaia in reference to the maldives which was originally british then argentina took it by force when the british got lazy and removed a large portion of there presence there... then the british not to be humiliated took it back. basically some islands i think are only useful for fishing ... read more
pirates
boat
shop

South America » Argentina » Tierra del Fuego » Ushuaia November 28th 2006

Having booked a last-minute cabin on an expedition ship to Antarctica over the internet, we had to get ourselves to Ushuaia in Argentinean Tierra del Fuego pronto. A quick visit to the airline office in Castro (capital of Chiloe) secured us two tickets from Puerto Montt to Ushuaia, arriving in time to explore the southern end of Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego before embarking on our ship. The name Tierra del Fuego (literally Land of Fire) comes from Ferdinand Magellan, who was the first European to pass it in 1520. He named this island after the many fires of the Amerindians, which were visible from the sea. He believed that the "Indians" were waiting in the forests to ambush his armada. They were, however, only using fire for heating and lighting. Charles Darwin called this ... read more
Stunted lenga trees
More stunted trees
Stormy skies

South America » Argentina » Tierra del Fuego » Ushuaia November 26th 2006

Arrived in Ushuaia yesterday afternoon, checked into our lovely wood cabin in the forest. Bedroom up some lovely wooden stairs, cut straight from a tree (slightly tricky trying to climb them in the dark though). Then headed for dinner. Found the restaurant in our guide book, called Kaupe, which was winner of the Gran Premio Mejor Restaurant 2005. Food amazing, unfortunately the prices were too. Not quite what the guide book quoted. I headed straight for the king crab (been waiting for it since the start of the trip) It was lovely, so was the freshly baked rolls. Leon ventured for the sea bass cooked in parchment paper in a champagne sauce. He also was in heaven, especially once his dessert arrived as well (more champagne sauce in that :o) Headed back to our cabin early ... read more
Happy families
Just sitting around

South America » Argentina » Tierra del Fuego » Ushuaia November 25th 2006

We finally bid goodbye to Ushuaia, its remarkable mountain surroundings and its debatable claim to fame. Before we leave we head for a spot of culture in the musuem housed in the ex-prison. Ushuaia actually started life as a prison colony, much like Australia, with the first handful of residents being accompanied by a dozen female 'volunteers' to get the colony going. God knows what sort of person chooses such a lifestyle, but we can safely assume they had some issues of their own. As things progressed, future inmates were allowed to bring their families along with them to live outside the prison itself. Otherwise visiting hour would have been a bit of a non-event. The prison musuem was pretty interesting - the obviously harsh conditions and some of the prisoners were colourfully described. One ... read more




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