Blogs from Perito Moreno Glacier, Santa Cruz, Argentina, South America - page 11

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What to say about the Perito Moreno glacier? We decided to do a “mini-trekking” tour rather than simply make our own way to the viewing platforms. It turned out to be a good move, and the prices are the same (250 pesos) no matter who you book through. Our day began with a bus journey into the National Park and then a boat trip across part of the lake. The views of the glacier were spectacular, but they got much, much better. Once back on dry land we had a short lecture about the formation of glaciers before being fitted with crampons. Then we took to the ice. For almost 2 hours we trekked up and down crevices (or were they crevasses?!) and had breathtaking icy scenery all around us in every shade of blue you ... read more
Easy does it going downhill
The South Front of the glacier
And the North Front too!


La Ruta 40 (Route 40) is a long, long, long, long road stretching from the North of Argentina to the very South. It’s the equivalent of having a road going from Liverpool to Timbuctu! Our journey from Bariloche to the town of Perito Moreno took us on only a small part of the road yet was 12 hours or so on the bus, a great part of that being on ripio (gravel) roads and therefore not the most comfortable! The town of Perito Moreno itself is the archetypal one horse town! Other than tourists travelling the Ruta 40 (or a handful going to or from Chile) there is nothing much there. A tourist map takes you to “Swan Lake” or “El Lago de los Cisnes” but it’s rather an over glamorous title. The plaza looks like ... read more
Cave paintings
Cave paintings
Cave paintings


Thanks for all the great messages everyone is sending us through this website! After El Chalten it was time to go back to El Calefate for our trip to the most famous glacier of South America. The Porito Moreno. The perito moreno glacier is the number one attraction of the town El Calefate because it can be easily reached by car/bus and the view on the glacier is great. So like all other visitors to El Calefate we went to see Perito Moreno. Luckly the weather was great and so were the views. A wall of ice over 60m high is ending up in a lake and regularly big blocks of ice come down with a lot of noice. Spectacular views!! Walking back from the harbour at the Perito Moreno we spotted a woodpecker couple. The ... read more
Perito Moreno
Woodpecker


El Calafate. Probably the most expensive place we will be the whole trip. And probably the coolest glacier (do i mean cold) in the whole wide world. We have managed to get a cute little two bedroom house at Los Pinos for 40 usd a night equipped with a well-stocked kitchen, too comfortable beds and a laundromat around the corner. Our first day here, after a big homemade breakfast, we got hooked on the idea of buying a car, even leaving a note on the windshield of this bright yellow miniature 1970s mail-like truck. All of this curiosity and asking everybody we meet if they know anybody selling a car led us to test driving a 1995, rojo Fiat Duna. At 10 pm last night, the sun just thinking about setting, we meet the guy and ... read more
Parque Nacionale Tierra del Fuego
How to Kill 17 Hours
Perito Moreno Glaciar


The next stage of our trip was to the south of Argentina and Chile, to a vast region known ominously as Patagonia. I had been in Patagonia previously, when I was in Bariloche and Puerto Madryn, yet they did not prepare me for the sheer vastness and extremeness (I think I just made a new word) of this area the further south you go. We flew from Buenos Aires to El Calafate in Argentina, which was the first step in our mission to get to the Torres Del Paine National Park in Chile. The flight there was interesting to say the least. I´m not the greatest flyer in the world, and sitting in a twin engine plane flying over the wide expanses of Patagonia feeling every bump was not an experience I wish to have to ... read more
Perito Moreno Glacier
Perito Moreno Glacier
Perito Moreno Glacier


9 December, Saturday... Arrived at about 2pm, went to eat some quality Argentine food (steak and lamb parilla), went to supermarket to buy stuff for packed lunches and checked out buses. After that I read a bit of the guide book and slept (a lot). 10 December, Sunday... Today was the day of the 'Alternative' tour of the Perito Moreno glacier as organised by our hostel and recommended by both the Lonely Planet and Rough Guide. How can you go wrong. Well we had started to wonder at first as the alternative nature seemed to be to take the back roads so they didn't have to pay the toll road and to stop at their friends cafe for tea. But on that road we did see condors, or at least we were told they were, and ... read more
It's hard to take photos of yourself
Wall of Ice


9000 years ago people in a remote canyon in Western Argentina had a cool idea. The blank cave walls that had been carved out by the river bellow years earlier had finally gotten to be a little to boring for them, and the first artists were born. By mixing earth and plant extracts in their mouths the people were able to produce dyes. Once a mouth was adequatley filled with the ill-tasting dye they would paint figures or blow the dye over their hands to create a negative image. As the milleniums rolled over the descendants of these same pioneers continued to refine their methods, and as we looked on the walls today we could see a history of a now lost culture in art. This is the kind of art that has true meaning. Besides ... read more
Ruta 40
Caves of Hands
Looking On


Considered a 'must see´ in all travel guides, we took a day trek to one of the few glaciers in the world that advances 7 cm per day in winter. The short day trek brought us over 80 kms outside of El Calafate (providing us an excuse to rent a car) and be wowed by the immensity of this natural wonder. We were fortunate enough not only to have nice weather and see the glacier stretch out miles before us from its source, but also witness the spectacular breaking off of gigantic pieces of the glacier in the frigid lake below. The noise was surprisingly loud - like thunder. ... read more
Steph and Adam
Perito Moreno Glacier
Glacier break-off - Part I


To climb back into the bus was a bit of a stuggle but we were keen to carry on the journey. Luckily the roads today were mainly paved, not always better but did make for a faster journey. Well it did not take 17 hours, rather 14, to cover the distance. The only scenery change we had to day was the hour long drive winding along the valley to Bariloche, so there is not much to mention just it is amazing how remote people and animals will and can live. The hostel we were booked into was diabolical with common sense-less people on reception and disgusting rooms. Definitley up there in the top 3 worst hostels we have experinced on this trip. Even more unfortunate we are paid for two nights (though tomorrow we could be ... read more


We are writing very little this time and we are going to concentrate on our photos....well that was it...... read more
The cheerful dutch couple who beat us on their bicycles
Our dinner in Villa Santa Lucia...
A view of what we rode along and what we rode towards!




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