The search for meat


Advertisement
Argentina's flag
South America » Argentina » Salta
January 22nd 2023
Published: January 22nd 2023
Edit Blog Post

You would think that, in a country with a reputation like Argentina’s, that the search for meat would be an easy one! You would be wrong! Finding anything essential - cash, petrol, fresh food - has proven difficult, involving lots of queuing and uncertainty. Meat was sadly no exception.

Today we ventured to the towns of Humahuaca and Tilcara - partially, like the ancient hunters and gatherers, in search of butchers and grocery stores, but also to see more of this remote and rural region.

Our drive today was beautiful again - not as spectacular as yesterday as we were more concentrated on the valley floor, but the contrast between the lush green of the valley and the glowing reds and hues of purple and grey in the rocks made it even more stark. We drove through rural landscapes where people were still living in mud brick huts and we felt a bit like we were in another world - even more so when we arrived in Humahuaca - we felt like we’d stepped back in time to a poorly scripted 70s western set in Mexico. The surrounds were dotted with cacti and the buildings were reminiscent of a low budget Hollywood cowboy flick…but this was real! We happened to stumble into the town square right on the stroke of midday where hundreds of faithful were gathered, filming that uplifting moment when a strange monk statue emerges from the church and raises its wooden arm. Some of the faithful may also have captured our bewildered and bemused expressions as we joined the throngs to observe this miracle.

But there were markets to see and bank queues to join so our wonderment was short-lived. Some shopping and the need for food struck so we retreated to a local restaurant for some delicious food and rollicking entertainment…some provided by local musicians, some provided by my attempt as deciphering exactly what the menu entailed.

Next stop was Tilcara when the need for meat was starting to become overwhelming. Our trip to the supermarket had yielded two bendy carrots and two manky tomatoes, but sadly the doors of the carniceria were shut and provided no indication of when they may open again. We didn’t dare risk the burger patties branded ‘Barfy’. We pondered our meatless predicament over a beer but this did not grant Aladdin’s magic, so we retreated, downcast, to Purmamarca once again.

Oh joy and wonder, what is this we see?! A carniceria that is abierto? This is even a more wondrous sight than the elevated arm of a wooden monk protruding from a church! The joy caused me to leap from the car almost before it had stopped and barge into said meat merchant, only to be greeted with walls full of wine and a small cabinet (maybe chilled?!) containing meat. The rest was unidentifiable, so I went with the trusty ‘pollo’…yes, I would only like half, thank you. Please stand clear while I take to your pollo with a jig saw and slice it right down the middle, still in its bag, frozen, full of a bag of gizzards and all. Some minor panic when he entered into the till and I thought I was going to be paying 80 bucks for it…how do I say 80 bucks is too much, even for this great (half) bird, when it is already sliced in two?! Lucky we were once again lost in translation and wonder bird was only 8.

I virtually skipped back to the hotel, full of the joy that only half a frozen bird and half a bag of gizzards can bring. The bird was prepared and cooked, and triumphantly served with its inferior vegetable accompaniments on our balcony. A local musician played in the courtyard while we enjoyed our dinner - it was a magical atmosphere - the hill of seven colours as a backdrop, indigenous music, accompanied by the food of the local people - kantong satay chicken with noodle salad. A lovely evening for all.

An awful overnight itching affliction for Beeb meant that we were very sleep deprived so we had a later start than we had hoped, but made our way back down the valley to Salta. We are all hoping that the drop in altitude and increase in humidity will help with sleep! Found a very convenient parking station and dropped into a cafe on the main square for a late lunch. Wandered around the town a bit and enjoyed the architecture and atmosphere before heading to the Museum of High Altitude Archeology.

It was a small museum profiling the Inca culture of the area - mostly focused on their traditions and customs associated with religion and spiritual beliefs. The main drawcard was a mummified child (approx 15 years) they had found in the surrounding mountains who was subject to sacrifice - she had been offered by her family to be ceremonially married before being drugged with cocoa leaves and buried alive - symbolic of bringing together the different regions of the Inca people. It was particularly interesting for Geoff and I, having been to Cusco and Peru, seeing the culture at its furthest reaches. The girls were a little more reluctant…”is that a statue?!”…no…”is that an actual dead body?!”…well, yes…”ugh, that’s disgusting, I can smell it”…hmm, pretty sure you can’t.

Couldn’t handle the drama much more so we headed to our lodgings for the evening - a farmstay just near the airport. A cooking swim before a thunderstorm set in and we were joined by the resident dog, looking for protection from the scary noises. A delicious dinner before a welcome retreat to bed.


Additional photos below
Photos: 6, Displayed: 6


Advertisement



Tot: 0.14s; Tpl: 0.011s; cc: 7; qc: 50; dbt: 0.0654s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1; ; mem: 1.1mb