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The bus journey from Mendosa to Salta overnight was not too painful, although at 5.15am in the morning Brim was rudely awoken by some electrical work undertaken by one of the conductors at the front of the coach! I managed to get some sleep between cold feet and DVDs in Spanish playing in the background. Around 4pm in the afternoon we finally arrived in Salta and wandered the 5 minutes from the bus station to our hostel, Inti Hausi. The manager Victor, gave us a map of the Salta city and marked off the key locations. Settled in, we wandered into the city to find out about the trens de la nubes (the train into the clouds)! After dodging he tour companies who were confusing us with different information in Spanish we walked to the train station only to find that the station was closed because of the Presidents visit!! So, back at the hostel Victor agreed to get us tickets instead and we chilled out with beer and books and good company of Heidi and Tom we were also staying in the hostel.
19th June, breakfast of cornflakes and dried toasted bread. Then wandered back into the city to get
postcards, money and provisions. Spent the early afternoon sat in the main plaza eating empanadas, listening to the panpipe players (who were remarkably similar to the panpipe men who can be seen at Bracknell bandstand in summer!) and drinking Argentinan beer. It was really chilled watching the local shoe shines and artisans in the plaza it was hard to drag ourselves away. Back at the hostel, Victor promised the train tickets (for the next day) should arrive at 8.30/9 that evening so we cooked up some more steak,drank beer and chilled out with the other hostel guests for the evening. At 10.30pm Victor, tail between his legs, said he was not able to get the train tickets as it was all sold out!!!! 😞 very gutted as only one train a week and Brim and I didn't have time to stay in Salta HOWEVER, Brim to the rescue with her notebook and booked the tickets online (the online page having been inaccessible previously) only problem was how to print out our confirmation at 11pm at night with no printer in the hostel! A sharp walk into the city and we located an internet cafe that was closing...the manager however seeing
our stricken faces agreed to let us make one print at 11.30pm at night!! 😊 phew. Confirmation printed, it was back to the hostel to try and get some sleep before a 5.30am start next day to get the train!!
The train to the clouds is an old steam train of maximum 35kms per hour that takes all day to wind its way over the mountains to nearly 4000 meters above sea level, Hence the name as, on some days the train rises higher than the clouds which hang around the mountain edges. The views from the train were beautiful. Desert and huge cactus, the odd herd of llama and donkeys and many viaducts and tunnels. The train was not full (as previously told) so Brim and I had plenty of space to gaze out of the windows and watch the world go by. Throughout the journey the attendants told us about the local area, vegetation and mining villages. We stopped at the highest viaduct where locals sold al paco products and a man wandered around with a dead armadillo in his hands!!! We also stopped at the mining village (literally in the middle of nowhere in the desert) at
around 3500 meters above sea level. Then it was the long hours back in the train on the way back watching the sun go down. For the evening, the train arranged for a local band (panpipes again) to keep us amused followed by a Spanish karaoke session, magician and comedy DVDs! Arriving back in Salta at 11pm we disembarked only to meet a local who started singing Beetles songs with us and arrived at the hostel to share in the tail end of the BBQ, Salta beer and Brim trying to negotiate with Paul for a cheep pair of ski trousers!! A long, long day but brilliant 😊 We didn't really see any clouds on the train because the weather was so good, but it was still worth it.
21st June, had a bit of a sleep but then needed to be up to pack bag and check out of hostel. Wandered back into the city and went up the gondola for a view of the city....unfortunately the clouds had arrived that day so the view was very hazy and a bit disappointing. Spent the afternoon again at the plaza and then said our farewells to the hostel and people
for a late bus 12.45 from Salta to the border of Argentina/Bolivia, La Quiaca!
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I am writing this as I am listening to the Ashes on the radio (courtesy of not having SKY and actually not even having a TV). England is doing better than expected in the last hours and Pete is literally hopping up and down the kitchen in excitement. You finally made it to Lake Titikaka, my childhood dream, one day I'll get there too! Missing you lots and will follow up with a proper email soon! Lots of love, take care. C.