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Morning Mist
Only the beginning of a long day With a sharp started we jumped on a local bus out to the small ski village of Catedral on the outskirts of Bariloche.
We had decided on a rather challenging hike from the Lonely Planet guide book "Trekking in Patagonia " which provides great maps, times distances and descriptions of hikes. So from previous experiences using this guide book in southern Patagonia we adjusted the times and decided that given the sunny day and feeling rather active we would attempt to pack a decent two day hike into the day. Catedral Ski village felt like a ghost town as we arrived in the early hrs. This was not only because the lifts were shut down for both mountain biking and skiing as we were in between seasons but also because the village was covered in a haze of mist (very quiet and eerie).
The guide book had recommended to start the hike at the top of the ski field by taking the lifts as far up as possible unless you were wanting to save money or the self gratification of the climb. So having decided on walking up our decision was made easier by the fact nothing was operating anyway.
So
What a View
And yes Marshall it is the Top!!! off we headed on a 1100m gut busting climb to the top of Cerro Catedral.
As we were both participants in the All Bran 5 day challenge it was not more than 5 mins into the climb when one of us decided they needed a pit stop behind the nearest tree. So one of us waited and took in the views before we continued our 2-3hr grind to the top. The views from 2100m were amazing and took your breath away more than the climb itself. We were rewarded with clear blue skys and views as far as the eye could see of lakes and snow capped mountains as well as circuito chico and the town of Bariloche.
So after a 5min break and many pics we decided we should push on as we had a big day ahead.
Now would be a good time to consult the map and this would have been our next logical step.
PROBLEM!!!
After checking the bags (3-4 times) one of us realised the map was safe and sound resting quietly under a tree at the pit stop 1000m below us. So we took a few deep breaths and walked on in silence as
we contemplated the rather challenging days hike we had ahead of us without a map.
We both decided that we could rely on our photographic memories and attempt the hike with or without a map. So remembering that we should expect to see small red and yellow paint blobs on rocks as we wound down the back side of the mountain we pushed on in search of the trail.
The first section of the trek is quite challenging and is closed for a large part of the year due to snow and ice. We came to the start of this section and were faced with the daunting prospect of crossing a very narrow path cut into the side of a incredibly steep gravel slide that disappeared without any signs of vegetation to 1000m below us. So with a look at each other and a new determination of completing the trek and neither of us wanting to be the pin puller we both agreed to push on.
This was hairier than Bowers chest and each step was carefully placed as we slowly crept along the mountain face. As we progressed the gravel drop changed to steep cliffs of rock and boulders
that we scrambled along using both hands and feet for about an hour.
As we passed each coloured blob of paint we hoped the worst was over and there would be a flat valley path in sight. Having given ourselves 3 hrs to make the first hut before turning back we were very relieved to finally see a valley looking down upon a beautiful mountain lagoon with the refuge (and maps)
Here we stopped for a 20min lunch basking in the sun before a relaxing wind down through moss covered trees in a forest of Bamboo. Seems rather odd but you almost felt like you could wander upon a giant Panda.
The last part of our walk took us through a hugh area of dead forest that had been wiped out by a fire and created a surreal environment with dead charred tree stumps.
We finally reached our starting destination where we had one last climb to recover the missing book!!!!
The intention was to dump this book as we left Patagonia but it has now been promoted to pride of place on our future book case. It isn't going anywhere!
We had a final debriefing and a few laughs
over a few beers waiting for the bus.
(Leanne also celebrated with her little chicken dance....)
So we have sadly said goodbye to Bariloche and its wonderful lakes and Chocolate.
Mendoza and wine tasting here we come.
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