Going North


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South America » Argentina » Córdoba
January 3rd 2006
Published: January 3rd 2006
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Tues. 27th.
The overnight bus from Viña del Mar was bearable. Hardly anyone on board, and all the seats went back. Problem was arriving in Mendoza at 5:00 a.m. and not being able to book into the hotel until after 9:00. It's hot, even at that time, so goes the ceiling fan and aircon, and we sleep till mid-afternoon. Went in to a travel agents to book a Winery Tour, and when we came out the sky was black, and the wind was ripping the branches off the trees. 1/2 hour later, the stair rods had stopped and it was lovely and fresh. Mendoza has an abundance of beautiful trees. Our favourite is the silver/grey one with "maple" type leaves, which originates in China. They must have got a job lot because they are everywhere. Back to our favourite restaurant, and I won in the Fillet Steak Row!

Wed.
We have 3 busless days, so what do you think we do to pass the time.... would you believe we take a 2 1/2 hour journey to the next town, San Juan! This was recommended by our nice receptionist, so we don't know what we've done to upset him! We've walked past the local bobby so often, we're on "nodding" terms with him. As we were leaving, at 8 o'clock, the place came alive, and the restaurants began to open. Bill and Kath, no-one in Argentina (not even the children) have their dinner before 10:00 p.m., so you just wouldn't survive, we're afraid.

Thurs.
Our Winery Tour Bus collects us from the hotel at 9:30, and the first stop is a more traditional winery. Here, they produce both wine and olive oil, and they had the audacity to make us sample some at 11:00 in the morning. The things you do to keep the locals happy! We were then taken to a hi-tech winery, Familia Zuccardi, which is one of Sainsbury's suppliers. Our guide couldn't have been more interesting and informative, so maybe, just maybe, we will appreciate the red stuff even more than before.
A 3 course lunch, obviously with wine, was included in the tour price, and we staggered back to our hotel 2 hours later than arranged. Apparently Argentine arrangements are vey, very flexible! Besides learning so much about wine production, it pleased us no end to discover that Familia Zuccardi export to France. Backpackers, do try to go on this particular tour, making sure you choose the coach, and not the private car, which costs twice the price.
Later that evening, still full after lunch, most of our chicken and salad dinner was appreciated by passing dogs!

Fri.
Our whirl-wind tour of the north starts today with the bus to Villa Mercedes. It seems everyone is either leaving town or arriving - the bus terminal is chaotic. Cama seats make the 5 hour journey a pleasure. Why don't they do more of them? Villa Mercedes is a beautiful place, but heaving at the seams with young people. We think they must shoot anyone over the age of 30! Our hotel was really swish. We've been so fortunate up to now.

Sat. 31st.
Our journey to Cordoba was so pleasant with lush countryside in abundance, but the sun is fierce.
While we unpack, we leave the hotel receptionist the mammoth task of finding us somewhere to eat on New Year's Eve. Success, but she advises us to go round with a deposit because nearly everywhere is closed tonight. True enough, walking to the restaurant about 10:00, the city is deserted, and what a good job we booked, as they were still turning people away at 11:45. An excellent choice of venue for New Year with an abundance of food and wine, and pleasant people, coming over to wish us all the best.... we think!!!
After midnight, a local couple invited us along to a cafe-bar, with live music, where he sometimes sings and pays guitar. Problem was - someone had moved our hotel, so we're walking streets at 3;00 a.m., trying to find it! "Happy New Year" to you all!!

Sun. 1st!
We actually made it down for breakfast, but then took an early "siesta" till 3:00!
Walked around a deserted city and found it very beautiful and relaxing, with lots of squares and statues. At 7:00 p.m., with the temperature still a balmy 28 deg., the locals come out of hibernation and sit anywhere shady. It's great fun, watching the little Gilberts feeding, and chasing the pigeons.
We could only find one restaurant open, and it was so busy that it was 11:00 p.m. before we were served. Walking back to our hotel, the Square was alive with the little ones playing - and this is after mid-night.

Mon.
Luckily, our bus to Tucaman was delayed, so we fought our way through the throng just in time to catch it. Then 9 hours of bliss, the whole Cama section to ourselves, with a flat screen t.v. When they put the DVD on, we were pleased we were on our own as it was their version of the Falklands War with english sub-titles - not pleasant.
No spectacular scenery on this trip, just flat scrub-land, alternating with fields of agriculture. The only flowers are the huge cacti, just about ready to bloom. Goats are everywhere, mainly on the road, so they get beeped at a lot. First impressions of Tucaman are not favourable ... until the taxi drops us in the square. The architecture is majestic, with quite a lot of Russian, as well as Spanish influence, we think.
While Jim goes to find a hotel, I bag sit and watch the sky get blacker by the minute. Then the rain started, and by the time we arrived at the hotel, we were like 2 drowned rats. Surprisingly, they let us stay. 3 hours later, when we should have gone out for dinner, the storm was even worse. The street was like a raging river, so we didn't take much persuading from reception to let them order a pizza for us to eat in the lounge. While we waited, in plush armchairs, we were entertained by bedraggled people, wading their way home. The pizza was delivered, still hot, by a lad on a bicycle, soaked to the skin. Needless to say, he made good tips that night.

Tues.
Still overcast, but ideal for the tourist trail. What a beautiful city this is, well worth a visit. We got talking to some young Argentinians and they were ribbing us, very good naturedly about Maradona and his "Hand of God" (Mano de Dios). Our reply was, "Diego Who?"
Back to the hotel to laze by the pool, absolute bliss. What's the weather like at home, by the way?


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