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South America » Argentina » Buenos Aires
September 13th 2007
Published: October 8th 2007
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San LorenzoSan LorenzoSan Lorenzo

Not seen anything like this in premiership for a long time!
Buenos Aires a perfect place to catch a few games of football as it’s very similar to London, as in there are shit load of teams that play in the capital, about 12 from a league of 20, so wasn’t too worried about seeing some football. I have heard it can be a bit of hassle for Boca and River so would just have to see how it goes. I won’t be leaving until I get to see both the teams play, in a derby would be perfect but that isn’t until October so will have to just settle for other games.

The first night we arrived in the city we got to see San Lorenzo Vs Arsenal in the South American cup, which is the equivalent of the Uefa Cup in Europe. It’s a bit strange on how teams are entered into it as some of the teams get there on merit alone plus the larger teams are also invited, weird! It was only the qualifying round where teams play each other from there own country first and then play other countries in the next round. The team Arsenal was originally founded in 1957 by two brothers who were inspired by Arsenal from back home. I thought it would be a good game to go to as the first leg was 1-1 and San Lorenzo are defending Argentinean league champions and hoping that they would give Arsenal a good kicking, its always nice to see Arsenal get beat!!

We through ourselves in the deep end as we didn’t really know how to get there and just headed to the closest tube station and took it from there. We got as close to the ground as possible by tube and then had to get a taxi as it was a bit of a walk but only 2 pound so not too bad. We managed to get tickets for 10 pound each a bit more than I expected but oh well. The ground was nothing special just a typical concrete box with standing at both ends and seating on the sides just like back at home in the 80s and early 90s. The ground holds about 45,000 and I would say there were about 25,000 there with only about 300 hundred away fans. The atmosphere was brilliant and couldn’t believe how loud it was. There was the typical South American
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Dog on the pitch!
flair of flags and banners that covered the whole stand and fireworks to add to the atmosphere. It reminded me of when I was a kid, well until the all seated stadiums and United would also have huge flags but I have not seem them in ages, probably banned by some boring official, shame as it takes the fun out of the game.

The game didn’t start too well as Lorenzo were a goal down after 10 minutes and unfortunately for the away fans as the majority turned up after 20 minutes! They did get to see a further goal shortly after to make it 2-0, an own goal just before the break blown San Lorenzo’s chances. The game ended 3-0 to the Arsenal and one thing that really impressed me was the home fans didn’t shut up, it’s like they were watching a different game either that or they just turned up for the singing! I can’t say I have seen many premiership games where the fans would still be going mad like they have scored but in reality were 3-0 down!

The first game down and it was a great introduction for the atmosphere alone, the
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Poor driver, with all the diving he was the busiest man in the ground!
quality of football was bit pants and I wondered how the hell San Lorenzo won the league last season as they were pants. One bad thing was they let the away fans out first so kept us waiting in the ground for another 30 minutes which meant we missed the last train and had to pay 4 pound for a taxi home, we thought of getting the bus but the area looked a bit dodgy!

Next up a few days later was River vs another BA team, Velez Sarsfield, 3rd in the league and River lower mid table but with a few games in hand. I presumed this would be a big game as two local teams so we got tickets 3 days in advance with no problem direct from the stadium for 14 pounds each. On the way to the ground to get the tickets we realised why Rivers nickname is Los Millonarias (The millionaires), the area was very nice and we felt totally safe and not worried about coming on the day of the game.

Rivers stadium is pretty impressive and holds 70,000 fans and is used as the National stadium and we were hoping for it to be a sell out but there were only about 45,000 fans there. It was a shame as it was beautiful sunny day and they won 5-0 and 3 of the goals were amazing, with my favourite being one from 25 yards that hit the bar two or three times before it went in! Again the atmosphere was brilliant but no surprise there with 5 goals! The difference between the first game we went to, was that there were no massive flags but apart from that we had a great time and it brought back loads of memories of when football at home was worth going just for the laugh and the football was a bonus! Some thing I will always remember from this game was just as the 5th goal went in the sun began to set behind the stadium and it everything looked amazing, just the end of a perfect day.

Next up were 2 games at the famous Bombonera and Boca Juniors. The day before the first game we went down to the ground for a tour of the ground, museum and to try and get tickets. The ground is very different to the others we have seen and Joe a Spurs fan from England said it reminded him of the 5 aside master’s tournament with the glass shield and wire mesh fences around the pitch and with the pitch looking so small due to the seats being so close. Some of the grounds back at home are very close to the fans but this was stupid and with out the glass the fans could literally touch the players near the corner flags! The ground holds 57,000 but you wouldn’t think it! The guide shown us a few interesting things like the away entrance, a small scruffy door which some of the taller players would literally have to bow to enter, which Boca aimed for, it was psychological ploy and then once in the door there would be lots of phrases and list of trophies won to intimidate! The best ploy though must be the dressing room its directly under the fans so the noise and the stamping would intimidate the players as they wouldn’t be able to hear the team talk and also it would feel like the roof would be falling in as the room shook!

The museum was nothing special but got to see the Copa Libertadores cup as Boca are the defending Champions, the trophy looked ancient as it was covered in dints, not surprised as it looked like it weighed a ton and probably been dropped a few times! We also got to see some footage of all the old players including their most famous the cheating Maradona. It was good to see some of his goals on DVD they have and without doubt he has been the best player of my generation and nobody has come close since.

After seeing the ground I had to see a game. Unfortunately at the stadium tickets were a no go as they get sold to all the members, the guy said we could try coming at 8 in the morning and queue and we might get lucky! Didn’t fancy that as its not the safest area and queuing all day without be guaranteed a ticket was not going to happen especialy as the game was kicking off at 5pm! Fortunately in a way the hostel we are staying at organize trips to any game for 25 pound, cheap for English standards but rip off for here as they are charging you double! I had to do it and got tickets at the hostel.

The day of the game. I was really looking forward to this as they were playing a team near the bottom of the league and after seeing River score five I wanted more goals! We got picked up in our bus and left for the game, after about 15 minutes I was glad that we went with the tour as we drove through some rough areas and didn’t fancy walking through them! The bus dropped us right outside the ground and we were in safe enough. We were sat in the expensive seats but close to one of the ends so we got very close to the atmosphere and it was just like the other games we have seen the fans going mad and seem to be more bothered above having a good time than watching the game, most of the time the ends just looked like a giant moshpit with people jumping and diving all over the place! The guide for the game was nice enough even with him being a River fan and gave us loads of information, one being why River and Boca
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Away fans at the top and home fans at the bottom!
are rivals. They used to play in the same area of Boca and became fierce rivals even before all the fans and played a game to see who should stay in the area as it wasn’t big enough for the both of them! Boca won and River moved to a richer area of Buenos Aires, so I don’t think they were that bothered as it made them the club they are by getting lots of local investment and that is why they have the nickname of the Millionaires. Boca are seen as the poorer club and the main supporters being the working classes.

The game was nothing special with Boca totally dominating but not creating that many chances, the weather didn’t help as it was pissing it down like it has been over the last few days so the pitch was covered in puddles. They managed to win the game 2-0 and Martin Palermo scored the second by penalty. It was an important goal to see as he is only 20 or so short of the all time Boca record and he´s a legend here. They should have won by a lot more and typically there next game away to Banfield they won 6-0, oh well at least I seen a few goals.

The second game was a week later and another I had to go to as it was in the Nissan Copa America which is the equivalent of the UEFA cup back at home. Its the same competition we watched for are first game at San Lorenzo but this time it was a classic of Boca Vs Sao Paulo, one of the best teams in Brazil and current Brazilian champions.

Due to stupid TV rights the game didn’t kick off until 10pm but as usual the fans kept them selves busy and this time I was right in the thick of it to witness it all. The tickets I had for this game were in the main end at the top tier so the views were amazing and virtually right over the goal because the stand was so steep and looking down at thousands of mad Boca fans! As soon as we got to the top of the stand there was a huge flag about 100 meters long being put into position by the hard core fans that call themselves player 12, as in Boca´s twelfth man! The flag was a beast and it took probably close to 100 people, me being one of them to unravel it down to the fans below!! I got goose bumps with the atmosphere and it was great to see. Typically if we were in the same seats as the first game we would have got some great pictures of the flag but it was difficult to take decent ones this time for one because I was right on top of it and for two because I had hold of it! The stadium was rocking, literally and has been built specifically for this reason, it has springs to take the pressure of all the fans jumping all over the place and the swaying effect adds to a great affect. Surprisingly the game again was not a sell out which I can only think because it was only the first round and there were probably about 45,000 fans, where I was it was packed so it felt full enough for me!

The game started well enough with lots of fast attacking football and both teams looked very even with the best chance falling to Palermo for Boca with only a wonder save from the keeper sticking it over the bar. Sao Paulo best chance surprisingly enough came from their goal keeper Rogerio Ceni as he is the specialist at free kicks and has scored nearly 80 goals in his career a world record for any goalkeeper! Saying that he has a good record for a striker! Boca finally made the break through just before half time with that guy Palermo scoring a great header that finally beat the keeper. The second half started with Sao Paulo dominating but not creating any chances. Palermo was standing out again doing lots of running and a few tricks which he isn’t known for, so a bit of a treat. He got his reward for his hard work by scoring another cracking header identical to the first and getting nearer and nearer as the all time top scorer. After that it was party time in the stands with everybody going mad and lots of singing, it was brilliant. The Brazilians then pulled a goal back in the last minute to set up a juicy second leg. The week after Sao Paulo won the second leg 1-0 and won on away goals so that
Wheres Wally!Wheres Wally!Wheres Wally!

See if you can spot me!
last minute goal proved crucial!

Of the four games in BA I think the River game was my favourite because everything was perfect for the day, great weather, lots of goals and amazing atmosphere. The Boca stadium is more of an English old fashioned stadium but River just topped it. All the games were brilliant and getting to see 13 goals in 4 games is not bad going! Some people might be thinking 4 games was a bit much but if I had the money I would have gone to double or even triple if I could because the fixtures were there and it would have been good to see Independiente´s stadium and a few of the others. This place would be a perfect place for a lads holiday, lots of football, bars, clubs and beautiful women, what more can a guy ask for!

Next up Brazil and I cant wait to see a game in the Maracana!



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River PlateRiver Plate
River Plate

Score board got a work out!
Copa LibertadoresCopa Libertadores
Copa Libertadores

Equivalent to the European cup, Boca Juniors are the defending champions.


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