South America - a brief encounter: 1 * Buenos Aires *

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This is the first ‘episode’ of another of 'our' travel experiences.

The collective ‘episodes’ (this being the first) describe our journey from our arrival in Buenos Aires (Sth America) from the 1st week of October for an extended tea-bag experience of this huge continent. Like home, the continent is huge. In the few weeks available to us, we can only experience a few locations - a (tea-bag) dunk here, another there, and so on. After a few days in Buenos Aires, we fly to Lima for a 'dunk' into a few selected locations. We then fly to Chile to do some more 'tea-bagging'. We'll eventually make our way back to Argentina and our departure home.



We attach a few pics to give a flavour of our journey, and some may 'flow over' past the dialogue. If we do this, you may need to manually go to the 'spillover' page to see them.



As always, if you want to 'see' more detail in an accompanying picture, click it to enlarge.

A summary (for those with limited time)...

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We flew from Gold Coast via air NZ on October 2nd and (after crossing the date line) arrived in Buenos Aires in the afternoon of the same date. On Monday 3rd, we ventured into the CBD area of the city to see the various 'sights'. The traffic, the pavement filth and the general sense of unease caught our attention. On Tuesday 4th, we headed south to the (supposedly) slum area of La Boca (we had a different experience). We followed that by crossing the inner city area to geek at the (supposedly) upmarket suburbs of Palermo and Las Heras. On Wednesday 5th, we ventured further afield by training it north to the Rio Parana delta and the port town of Tigre. Here the 'establishment' have their weekenders. On Friday 6th, we had a late flight and so spent the morning wandering another part of the (inner) city at San Telmo.

Sunday 2nd October; Gold Coast, Auckland, Buenos Aires...

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We'd booked a through trip to South America on Air NZ departing Gold Coast with a stopover in Auckland. ETD was 09:45, but given the goons of Border Farce (gee, they're SO arrogant and unpleasant) had announced random strike action, we thought it wise to arrive some 3 hours early. We set our alarm for 6am and arrived at the airport a little after 6!!!! What the ..... Guess who'd overlooked that Tweed is in NSW, the airport in Qld and daylight saving time commenced in NSW 'today'. Groan!!!!



We'd upgraded our flight to premium economy and Air NZ placed us up the pointy end and treated us as royalty - Judy (especially) appreciated to attention. A couple of hours layover in Auckland was whiled away with some very tasty Kiwi Craft beer. Back in the air, Judy was on 'cloud nine'; the seats were much wider than (ordinary) economy and the food First Class. We'd previously rated Singapore Airlines great, but this Air NZ flight was way more enjoyable. We passed over the international date 'time' while asleep and later 'entered' South America near Puerto Monto in southern Chile. From the air, the numerous snow capped Andean volcano's looked spectacular. We arrived mid afternoon in Buenos Aires to a damp day.



The drive from an airport into any city isn't usually the best route to form an impression, but what we encountered travelling into Buenos Aires was challenging. The kindest word we can use is 'scruffy'! We hope tomorrow reveals a better impression.

Monday 3rd October; Downtown...

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Our body 'clock' had us awake quite early, so after a relaxed brekky (we'd bought some supplies yesterday evening) we headed out to 'adventure. We're staying in a great AirBnb apartment in Congreso - a suburb next to the CBD (and the location of the nations' Congress building - which was modelled on the White House in the US). We planned to wander towards the CBD and look at the 'icons' we'd researched before we left.



We'd read that the suburb of Congreso was once a fashionable residential area, but over time the 'fashionista' had moved elsewhere and now the area is a bit forlorn. Mmmmm, we'd have to agree. But in hindsight after an extended wander through Centro, it's not that Congreso is 'forlorn' - it is just a little more 'forlorn' than the whole city area. Note the picture above of the Congress. For a national building, both the surrounds and the building itself could do with a good cleansing. We were amazed that the city has allowed it's streetscapes to become so run down. There is hardly an undamaged section of pavement anywhere. And, as well as having to avoid broken pavers, gaping holes and rubbish, dog droppings abound. The (once) public parks are now home to squatters and even in the day bodies lie asleep in the streets. What amazed us is that most 'monument' buildings (eg. Cathedral, Courts, banks, etc.) are surrounded by huge metal barricades. With much unpainted render now quite black, the occasional painted facade stands out to glare disapprovingly. It's not an 'inviting' city such as we've experienced in Europe.



We've formed the view that there are the wealthy and there are the poor - the middle class appears small and not much more affluent than the poor. But, there is also another aspect that cuts in to this view. During the middle of the 20th century, Argentina became 'ruled' by a cabal of tyrannical dictators. Maintaining power was exercised by removing dissent. Often these were university students protesting at the tyranny. Thousands went missing!!! And, to prop up the wealth of the elite, the poor paid dearly. Following WW2 and the American obsession against Marxism, we understand the US was heavily involved in supporting the various dictatorial 'governments'. Across the city, vacant walls still hold political graffiti. We sensed that this scar will take a long time to heal.



We made our way eastwards along Ave de Mayo toward the city centre and had to cross Ave 9 de Julio - a 22 laned road. We thought China had the prize for such roads, but BA is clearly the winner. Continuing on through the city centre to the iconic Plaza del Mayo and Casa Rosado (the presidential seat) we took in the 'sights' as residents scurried to work. We ventured further east to Puerto Madero (crossing yet another major traffic thoroughfare). At the turn of the 20th century Puerto Madero was once a bustling port, but with increasing sized vessels and siltation, another had to be found. the area progressively fell into decline and in the late 20th century a government - private joint venture gentrified the area. Like Docklands in Melbourne, the area is largely an upscale residential area. Beyond Puerto Madero is low lying land that over time became a swamp. Half a century ago a huge lake was constructed to 'enliven' the area. Left unfinished, it became a major habitat for migrating birds. We'd planned to visit - but Monday it was closed!



We returned as we'd come and enjoyed more 'attractions'. One of which was a walk through a park where we noticed mid sized ants scurrying down a Linden tree with portions of leaves held aloft. The 'portions' were quite large. The trail led down the tree and along the footpath to a hole. We then observed the same on several other trees. Small things amuse ...



At each church and the cathedral, we wandered in to gawk. We were surprised that for such a devoutly Catholic nation, the city cathedrals and churches are in much neglect.



Back in Centro centre at Plaza del Mayo, we ventured along Florida Ave, a pedestrianised shopping 'mall'. Being early afternoon, it was very lively. Along the way we deviated into several arcades - each not dissimilar to those in Melbourne CBD. One, Galleria Pacifico covers an entire block and has been delightfully refurbished to become a very upmarket space.



By late afternoon, we made our way back to our apartment and rested our now very weary feet.

Tuesday 4th October; La Boca, and...

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We'd read that a former shanty town developed a character that is now high on the tourist trail; the small suburb of La Boca. Getting there meant learning how to use the BA subway. That was easy - as the subway is entry value only it meant we could use one 'go/opal' card for the two of us. Alighting at the 'retiro' (end of line) at Constitution delivered us to a overland major rail head. Not knowing the bus 'system', getting to La Boca meant using shanks pony and 'Maps.Me'. Outside the massive station complex was another massive scenario; hordes of buses to-ing and fro-ing with the accompanying throng of commuters scurrying in seemingly all directions.



Using 'Maps.Me' (an offline map app on our phone) the walk was made easy. The wider area of La Boca reminded us very much of inner Sydney suburbs before gentrification - think Newtown or Surry Hills (or Alexandria today). Unlike the Centro area (of our explorations yesterday), the pavements were largely undamaged. While walking was more pleasant, there were still brown packages of which to be aware. As we made our way down the slope towards the river delta area, we could see from the presentation of the houses and the 'types' of car in the street that a gradual 'lowering' of the socio-economic status was occurring. What we noted is typical in BA, some parts of the older urban fabric have been retained, while large areas have been 'refurbished' with high rise residential towers and the provision of parks. Along the way we were 'confronted' by the La Bombonera football stadium where Diego Maradona began his career. Reflecting the religion that it is, everything in sight in the immediate vicinity is painted the club colours of blue and yellow.



Eventually we arrived at our destination; Caminito. This part of the suburb - or Barrio, as it's known here - lies beside a minor river. The area floods and we read that it initially housed non-Spanish ship jumpers. These folk gained employment in the nearby slaughterhouses and wharves. They built their houses of timber and corrugated iron. And, painted the dwellings with paint 'borrowed' from ships under repair. The most notable part - Caminito - has been preserved and is now a major tourist attraction. like so many cases, move a little away from the herd and once can see the original. While at a nearby wharf, a small tourist group were having a 'demonstration' of Tango. Judy melt at the sight! Later, Bruce was accosted to 'do' a tango!! Judy just laughed.



Having our fill we sought to catch a bus back to Constitution station. It looked easy, but knowing which of the very many buses actually went there was a challenge. We eventually 'solved' the puzzle. Given that we'd visited Centro and a lower socio-economic part of BA, we followed the advice of the tour books and went for an 'up-market shoofty' at Palermo (to the north). While we found the ambiance more 'upmarket', the pavements were as messy and dirty as Centro. The 'quality' of the high rise apartments was less than Madero but better than Congreso and La Boca.



Back on the subway, we deviated to Las Heras (east) where the Hoi Poloi were said to hang out. While there we wandered into the Cemetery to be awed at the huge mausoleums wedged side-by-side. The wealthy certainly felt obligated to assert their 'values' even in death. Returning 'home' via the subway (Subte) we remarked to ourselves that the platform walls at each subway station were covered in glazed tiles with large murals as decoration. Each station had a quite different picture.

Wednesday 5th October; the delta and Tigre...

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We'd wanted to get away from the oppressive urban so we took the train north to a delta holiday area. BA sits aside the Rio De La Plata (with Uraguay on the other side) which is a large bay. Just north of BA is the Rio Parana with a monstrously large silt delta. The town of Tigre sits aside a tributary of the Parana; the Rio Lujian. The silt flats on the opposite side of Tigre are sufficiently above the 'normal' water level such that an abundant vegetation has developed. We learned that traditional natives lived here, but the colonists moved in to plunder the forest and plant citrus and fruit trees in the deforested areas. Over time, the demand for citrus and fruit waned due to more productivity elsewhere and the land has become 'available' for 'other' uses. Over time the land beside the various creeks and rivers that sinew through the mudflats has been carved up into residential use. With no power, water or telephone, the lots were used by the poor. Nowadays, the lots have been sought by the wealthy for holiday home sites.



We took the train north along the coastline of the Rio De La Plata and after a while the high rise residential changed to low rise suburban lots. Further north in the suburb of Acassuso, the elevated slopes housed some large mansions - most on small acreage. The sky was looking threatening so we decided to take a river cruise along the creeks of the silted delta. While similar in tenor to the Gold Coast canal tours, the focal vista was extremely different. For floodprone land, with most dwellings on stilts, there is a lot of cash tied up in largely holiday houses.



Fortunately, the shower occurred late in the cruise and after alighting we visited Puerto de Fruitos. This was the port where fruitgrowers unloaded their cargo. Today the wharf sheds house retailers marketing local artisan wares. As the sun emerged in the late afternoon, we made our way back to the station to return to BA.

Thursday 6th October; San Telmo, Cabildo & Lima...

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We are off to Lima today, with a 6pm flight. Given the traffic chaos, we are advised to depart BA around 2pm to ensure we meet the flight. So, the morning 'adventure' is a visit to the San Telmo barrio - about 1/2 way between Centro and La Boca. We'd read that in BA's early days, San Telmo was as close to Centro as the gaucho would venture. Though noted (then) as a 'colourful' destination, it soon became gentrified. However, a Yellow Fever outbreak in the late 19th century saw the wealthy move north-east towards Recoleta. The area became occupied by 'colourful' bohemian characters but is now a sub-district of Centro and offers tourists access to antiques and similar fare.



While exploring, we stumbled across a 'marche' (or French style market) that while once would have been a bustling centre, is now a reflection on times past. After a coffee and roll, we ventured on. We keep on trying in case, but wee're not appreciating the Argentinian style of coffee. Rather than adopt the European approach, the roasters have sought to replicate the instant coffee flavour (with considerable success).



Heading north to Plaza de Mayo, we revisited Cabildo. Prior to independence, Spain sent their goveners but obligated that the local community form an elected body to manage administration. This local body - or Cabildo - occupied a building (now, of the same name) which today houses a history of the early development of Argentina. We were surprised to learn that present day Bolivia was then part of Argentina, as was much of Chile part of Peru.



We returned to our accommodation to hand back the keys and head to the airport. We had a 6:10pm departure for Lima (with an 8:40pm arrival). A light meal at the airport and another on the plane ensured we didn't go hungry.

Reflections...

Our reflections of Buenos Aires are mixed. On the one hand it is a scruffy and poorly maintained city. On the other, it has an intriguing charm.



Central to our mixed feelings is that we didn't expect Argentina and it's capital to be such a third world country. Our adventures to SE Asian third world countries showed similar disorderliness in the urban fabric and similarly chaotic traffic. But, in the poorer SE Asian nations through to the more affluent, there are many people employed to keep the streets and pavements clean; 7 days a week. We noted that BA has a once weekly pavement cleaning process. Similarly, while the city pavements in SE Asian nations can be broken and/or uneven, in BA it is considerably worse.



At the late 19th century, both Australia and Argentina were 1st and 2nd most prosperous nations in the world due to the massive production of frozen transportable food. It is clear that much wealth was spent on a building boom in Buenos Aires. A goodly proportion of those buildings remain but most have been cut into apartments or offices and has been poorly maintained. As the nation slipped economically (especially as it became subjected to ongoing tyrrany), ugly apartment blocks became the major urban feature. Consequently, there is little aesthetically pleasing in most of the city. The master planned Puerto Madera is an exception.



Like many cities we've experienced, the portenos (as Buenos Aires citizens are called) are really friendly. And, despite our inability to speak Spanish, they took the time to engage as much as they could. The intrigue of the city was in the small spaces, the little corners where coffee could be had (or in our case, a non-coffee drink), the courtyards of buildings (when open to the public) which were often with garden. We figured the 'real' Buenos Aires lay in these 'respite' areas - places where one could stop and recharge from the constant humdrum of traffic chaos and streetscape filth.



Tomorrow, the Peru 'adventure' begins.

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