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I taught myself to like coffee by forcing myself to drink espressos. It might sound crazy but it worked. I knew it would be coming criminal to pass through famous coffee producing countries such as Guatemala and Colombia without sampling some local brews. The irony is that the high grade coffee produced in these places is actually all exported, leaving the low quality stuff behind for the people of the nation who produce it. That's the real crime. It amazed and sickened me that it would have been easier to get a cup of good dry roasted Guatemalan in Dublin that it was to get in Coban (in central Guatemala), a town where we even visited a coffee farm. Well I suppose it is a buyers market.
So James and my new found liking for coffee were disappointed time and time again in Central America and most of South America. More recently, things improved greatly in Brasil only to then sink to new depths in Chile where Nescafe instant was actually the national preference over beans and a coffee machine. I might be new to this coffee drinking, but I even know that's a big no-no for dedicated drinkers. However
we rejoiced on arriving in Argentina and my caffeine addiction escalated dramatically.
'Un Cafecito' was a firm part of our daily routine by the time we arrived in Buenos Aires. Meaning literally a 'little coffee' (i.e. an espresso), it was usually accompanied by a complimentary pastry treats - an essential part of the coffee ritual that would make or break a place for us. Our top five coffee hang outs in reverse order are:
5.) Havanna - the Starbucks of Argentina. This chain was everywhere. We tended to veer towards the more original cafes, but Havanna's 'blanquino' (an espresso with white chocolate pieces) tempted me in time and time again. No milk or sugar required....just coffee and chocolate. Sweet, creamy and spectacular.
4.) For those afternoons when we needed a quick cheap tasty snack and a pick-me-up, a great find was La Tucumanita on Rivadavia for an empanada and a cafecito. I couldn't decide if the cheese, tomato and basil empanada or the Roquefort one was nicer. So I had both.
3.) Cafe Tortoni. The original godfather of all Buenos Aires cafes. Full of style and class and elegance. And tourists. Nonetheless, the price was not
extortionate although the choccie treat was a let down, it was a poor version of a kitkat. (By the way, if you go to the tango show, ask for the show in La Bodega. The cheese plate and a bottle of the syrah go nicely with the tango.)
2.) Runner up is a nameless outside cafe near the Palacio del Congreso. I'm still finding my way when it comes to knowing a good cup of coffee from a bad one, but in this place I took a sip and said without hesitation "Wow that's really nice coffee". Plus the little pastry was yummy and it had a perfect people-watching sidewalk location. Shame it had no name.
1.) The place we went back to again and again takes top spot. Bar El Federal in San Telmo, on the corner of Peru and Carlos Calvo. Good coffee and the freebie was a small but adequately sized homemade cake which changed daily. We could sit and read a book for ages over one coffee and no one would bother us.
A special mention also needs to go to Plaza Dorrego for the beautiful architectural setting and the free outdoor tango shows. Galeria del Pacifico
Not your average shopping centre. Pretty much all the cafes there are the same - way overpriced. The shows are always starting in "cinco minutos" and to be honest don't last much longer. And worst of all there is no complimentary pastry! But do it at least once regardless. Sipping coffee + watching tango = the quintessential Buenos Aires experience.
Buenos Aires owes a lot to its Italian immigrants. Of course there are the excellent espressos, but also great pizzas, fresh pastas and fab ice cream (especially the 'sopa inglesa' flavour). Italian influence is unmistakable in the Buenos Aires style. As our last port of call in South America, we decided to do some shopping. And what top shopping there was to be had!
For a shopping centre like no other, the Galeria Pacifico cannot be beaten. On the main downtown pedestrian drag of Florida, it is a shopping centre featuring all the usual suspects of multi-national chain stores and brands but the restored ceiling painting would not look out of place in the Vatican. Upstairs is a cultural centre where we saw a tango show and a photography exhibition by Steve McCurry (the National Geographic photographer that took the famous cover photo
of the Afghan girl with the green eyes). Not a typical shopping centre at all.
When it came to expensive designer shops, these are in Palermo centred around Plazoleta Serrano and Plaza Palermo Viejo. For us, it was mostly window shopping here and the design of the stores themselves were as much a draw as the design of the clothes! All was not lost. Luckily for us, in our home neighbourhood there were loads of shops with clothes from up and coming designers. Without a recognisable name or brand, the prices were much friendlier to our budget. In San Telmo, Defensa was the dream shopping street. But my personal favourite shop in San Telmo was opposite Bar El Federal (on Peru between Estados Unidos and Carlos Calvo). It was a discount designer store which had stuff that I saw elsewhere but was here with 20% off. There was even a sofa opposite the dressing room for James to rest on when he got bored. Now that's style.
From Jess
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