The Parrilla

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If you love meat you are halfway to becoming a naturalised Argentine. We saw huge lumps of meat served at lunch and dinner tables. It is a national obsession. I am fond of a steak and would eat just about anything at least once.

But Jessica will always be regarded with suspicion in the land of the parrilla.
"You're a veggie-what???!!!"
"You don't eat meat???!!!"
"How about pork? Sausage? Fish? Chicken? You must eat chicken!!!"
"How about ham? But ham isn't really meat."

Parrillas (steakhouses) are found in every part of Argentina. With a population of about 50 million cattle, there is plenty of meat to go round. The cattle roam the millions of acres of lush grasslands in the pampas. Travelling by bus through the pampas, we witnessed the vast expanse and flatness from our window. Towns in the pampas, such as Tandil, were full of artisan cheeses and meats thanks to the wealth of local produce.

In a parrilla, 'bife de chorizo' (sirloin) cooked 'a punto' (medium) was my cut of choice. The 'parrillada' (mixed grill) was really good too. A sort of tasting tour of the cow's body: blood sausage, liver, large and small intestines, kidney, maybe a couple of ribs - there is very little that is not chucked on the grill. To my great surprise intestines are very tasty.

All decent and proper parrillas serve 'chimichurri' to the table. Chimichurri is a spicy sauce made from garlic, parsley and olive oil. It is a tasty accompaniment to meat. And salad, according to Jess!

Five years ago Jessica and I were walking around Buenos Aires and we wandered into an area called Puerto Madero. Back then the area was in the first stages of its rebirth. About two miles of old docks and warehouses are now transformed into restaurants, bars, a cinema, a college, apartments, hotels and parks, all under the watchful gaze of new skyscrapers. The old red brick warehouses still retain their character on the outside. But the inside is much fancier these days.

Five years ago we discovered a parrilla called Cabana Las Lilas, an expensive and upmarket restaurant. In this case you get what you pay for - top service and top food. Not any old meat is served. The owners raise their own cattle on the pampas, so the meat is of the highest quality. Five years later and Cabana Las Lilas has lost none of its excellence. From the great dips to the fresh baked bread, the extensive wine list to the roasted vegetables and goats cheese for Jessica, everything was fantastic. We love this place.

I can still remember the first piece of meat I had there, chewing slowly to savour every moment. I swallowed the first piece, sat back and smiled at the T-bone on my plate which was the size of my head.
Jessica asked, "So what do you think?"
I replied, "I'm in heaven!"

We shall return.

From James

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