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Published: March 6th 2008
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Uruguay
Strange creature From the elegant cobblestoned streets of Colonia del Sacramento to the skyscrapers of Buenos Aires, which were visible almost as soon as we had left the Uruguayan shores. There was no doubt we were about to arrive in a big, busy city and a bit of a culture shock after the peace and quiet of the last few weeks. Still it would be a good acclimatiser before our return to London....The skies were also cloudy and there was rain in the air so it was almost like home!
As we boarded the ferry, a North American voice from behind greeted us: "Welcome aboard the JuanPatricia..." It was Jim, our neighbour from Punta del Diablo! We had a quick catchup but HAD TO take our seats as we were booked into first class! They had met a couple from Buenos Aires in Punta del Diablo who they were visiting and asked us along, so we agreed to meet them later in the Palermo district. The ferry trip was only an hour after which we made our way to the centre of the city by foot.
We found a cheap and cheerful little hotel, booked in and then made our way, by
Colonia del Sacramento
Sunset over the Rio del la Plata the tube line (a good and fast service - 15 pence for any trip!!), to the north west of the city. Their friends, Eugenio and Jorgelina had a nice place with a small courtyard. Eugenio uses the back of the building to create some striking large paintings, some of which are used in exhibitions. He also has a few hanging in his bar down the road, which we visited later. We had a nice chat until it was time for Jim, Jen and family to catch their plane.
Eugenio's bar was a cosy little place and typical of the places around BA. We had a few cocktails and headed round the corner for a Parillada and a bottle of red. Sitting outside at 11pm, at a table for two alongside many others, was an entertaining experience. And so was the taxi home... as the driver, (named Patrick Mclean!! - Irish parents...) was speaking fluent english and had many tales to tell, though he was on something we think...
The following day we met up with Mariella (who we met in Colonia Pelligrini) near her house. It was Saturday and she spent the day as a tourguide (she is a
Colonia del Sacramento
Cacti in a walled garden travel agent) showing us the Tigre delta via the San Isidro and Belgrano district. We spent two hours on a boat exploring the delta and its many islands. There are a variety of houses on the islands (many holiday homes and also that of Sarmiento, a former president) with locals having to take boats everyday to get to the mainland. A large amount of scrap metal is available here in the form of boat graveyards, with many large trawlers and tankers rusting away on the shores. After the relaxing boat trip we went for some retail therapy at a local market. There were all sorts of stalls, from furniture to cow skins. We spent an hour there but had to meet Gabriel and Laura (who gave us a lift from Colonia Pelligrini) later for a catch up. They also invited Mariella along, so on the way we stopped at her parents house for refreshments. We went by our hotel to change and then headed to the San Telmo district, the heart of tango. They took us to a quaint bar (with a fantastic old coffee maker machine and old bottles on the shelves) and we spent the rest of the
Colonia del Sacramento
Old gallery on the Calle de los Suspiros evening chatting away with monkey nut shells gathering on the table. Gabriel and Laura had to go for dinner at her parents (at midnight!) so the rest of us went looking for a tango club. We found a Tango hall (Milonga) that was very proper - the locals, aged from 20 - 70, would sit at the tables surrounding the dance floor and look to catch each others eye for a dance. Once there was eye contact a quick nod by the woman and both would stand up and start the tango. The dances lasted about 3 minutes after which the next tune would start but not the dancing - chatting for 30 seconds first and then all dancers commencing roughly at the same time! After 3 repetitions of this and 3 different tunes, crazy pop beat disco music would start and the dance floor would empty! Then a minute later, the same again. It was interesting watching people waiting for a dance, looking around the room and others listening to the music with eyes closed! We had an entertaining evening (no dancing as our shoes were not the right type...) and headed back in the early hours.
On
Colonia del Sacramento
Old cars (one housing a table for two and another a plant!) our last day in BA... we walked around the pedestrian avenues of Florida and Lavalle and then went back to San Telmo for the famous antique market. What an interesting day. The roads were closed and many artists were plying their trade, which gave a vibrant atmosphere. We spent the rest of the day here and made sure we completed our pressy list. In the evening we had our last large steak around the corner from the hotel before picking up our bags and heading to the airport. :-(
And that was the end of our memorable two month trip. So many experiences to savour and photos to wade through in the near future, but for now, it was a sad goodbye to an interesting and contrasting continent. Till next time.... x
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