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Rue Cler - kinda dead, as Mondays see most shops shutting down. I once bought cheese from here, and asked in French "Parlez-vous anglais?", to which the cheese lady rudely responded "Non!!!" and started to walk away. But as soon as I tried a bit of French and said "Je voudrais un peu du fromage" (I would like a little cheese) she started smiling and happily recommending different types. Parisians have a reputation for being rude, but it makes all the difference just trying to speak a tiny bit of French, even if that's all you know. Speaking of cheese ladies, I just remembered the pretty cheese lady in La Coruna. Sigh ... Spain ...