From Crap-mandu to Yak-land
November 4th 2010 The last time I was in Nepal was 16 years ago, when I did a short 7-day Annapurna Panorama trek; and blimey a lot has changed since then. The pollution & air quality is so horrendous in Kathmandu (now nicknamed 'Crap-mandu') with all the taxis & motorbikes, that it's really hard to breathe. You develop this hacking smoker's cough, and feel the urge to spit like the locals (but hold back because it
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