Part 19: Smells like Christmas Spirit in Torino
December 26th 2009 “I have never needed a massage more in my entire life,” I wrote in my journal on my first night in Torino. Yet here I was 10,000 miles away from my masseuse on Christmas Eve in Northern Italy.
I had to settle for a brief backrub from a kind old Romanian woman.
“There is no better option. The only way out of this is through it.” These words were my mantra, as I froze to death riding from Ni
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