Descent into the underworld
July 27th 2005 I wake up with a terrible cold and a running nose. Today's plan is to reach Nukus by air, but the plane does not leave until late in the afternoon. I decide to go sightseeing somewhere and inspect my new map, which has some nice colour photos of interesting places, and point the finger towards Kukeldosch Medressah near the Chor-Su bazar and metro station. The first step is actually reaching the me
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