World Cruise 10

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World Cruise 10



Due in Muscat, Oman on 25th March



We had a speaker on before we got to the Gulf who was really interesting, talking in general about Oman, that I knew nothing about. I hope you find it as fascinating as I did.



Frankincense and myrrh. A heady Arabian mix that is Oman



Typical thoughts about the Arabian Peninsula….

For the first half of the 20th century was closed. Muscat was a fishing port. It is a land of minarets, mosques and mountains. Donkeys and mules were still important in the villages.

Because it developed late it was able to learn from the UAE states and has an old blend with the new. It has the faraj irrigation system from 1000BC and the interior fortress are impressive. It is one of the most mountainous Arab states . The Mussandam Peninsula at the Straights of Hormuz has some of the best scuba diving areas in the world.

There are whales in the mating season, from December to March.

It has a slightly smaller area than Poland, with Yemen to the South and Saudi Arabia to west.

In the second century Ptolemy may have referred to a concealed harbour describing Muscat.

In the ninth century it became a port for water supplies for Indian traders.

in 15th and 16th centuries the Portuguese conquered Muscat but in 1622 they were driven out. Muscat was made the centre, it’s walls were built and despite another attempt by the Portuguese in 1650 the Al Facide dynasty took over.

Pearling became important in the 19th century but died out as cultured pearls took over.

Omanis are a humble and down to earth people who respect customs. They are very hospitable and if invited in guests will be offered dates, coffee, bitter cardamom seeds, infused, hawa dates clarified butter and homey.

Dates are a staple fruit and have a special place in the culture.

They are 70% sugar and are harvested mid to late summer. They are spread out on mats to dry.

The entire palm tree has its uses, the trunk for pillars, the fronds for making things, weaving into walls, bags, roofs, etc.

A large percentage of the population have a rural life.

There are farmers on the N. Coast between the sea and the mountains. Nearly one third of non oil exports are from the farmers. 3 crops are often raised at different levels, dates, limes and wheat or grapes.

History documented the Muscat grape did originate from here.

There are ancient water channels which go back 8500 years, water has been channelled from underground springs and refined about 2500BC, the faraj were constructed and the water was shared , with watchtowers to protect them. The irrigation channels made habitation possible.

In 2006 there were 5 UNESCO World heritage sites in Oman.

Camels are an important part of Omani culture. There is camel breeding, camels can eat anything, the one hump Arab camel, has fat and oils stored in the hump. They provide milk, meat, wool, weaving, manure for fuel, skin is used for bags for water.

Camels are often found on the main tarmac ed roads at night so drivers in all Arab states have to be careful The tarmac keeps its heat from the sunshine and so it’s warm for the camels to sleep on!

There is a Director General for a camel Affairs. Camel Racing is very high profile, with big prize money. Non racing camels can cost $500 but racing camels from $275 thousand to $1 million.

All hawks but particularly the peregrine falcon are important to Omani as they can be trained to hunt and kill.

Oman’s early wealth was due in large part to a particularly ugly tree. Frankincense is the aromatic resin of the Boswellia sacra tree and was the chief export of the region. It was grown in S Arabia and carried across the desert interior by caravans

Frankincense could be found in the temples of Egypt, Jerusalem and Rome and was recorded in the Bible and the Quran. It is used to this in many of the world’s most sacred ceremonies.

Pliny wrote in the first century that it was thanks to the frankincense trade that people of southern Arabia became the richest on earth. He recorded that 300 thousand tons moved along the trails of the Levant and Mediterranean.

Only a few tons now.

The tree is leafless for most of the year, with a peeling bark and stumped branches. What makes it special is it’s aromatic sap, known as ‘lubban’ in Arabic or frankincense in English. The sap oozes in lite or amber coloured beads from incisions made in the bark and left to harden in the sun. The gum is extracted after September.

It has a natural oil content, allowing it to burn well and the vapour is released by dropping a bead of the sap onto hot embers.

It has medicinal qualities, pure it is pale yellow gummy globs, pebble like chunks, the more light you can see the better the quality. It is included as an ingredient in exotic perfumes.

It is burnt and the scent is wafted to scent clothes and ward off evil spirits.

The trade was centred around an ancient port near the present city of Dhofar.

Myrrh is a gum resin from a small thorny tree used in perfume, incense and medicine and some analgesics.

There was a flourishing Pearl industry in the 19th century but this disintegrated almost overnight when cultured pearls were introduced by the Japanese.

The cuisine of Oman includes curry cooked meat and rice, vegetables such as smoked aubergine.

The date is king, there are plantations round and several varieties of date can be found.

Halva is a popular desert, made of sugar, honey, rose water, egg and Omani Laban sow’s milk and buttermilk, very sweet.

Fauna in Oman are camel, sand fox, sand cat, desert hare: the latter have unusually large ears and tufts of hair in their feet and ears to help lose heat and on feet to spread out across sand

Fish -hammerhead shark, 12-15 feet, 10 varieties of dolphin, whales and whale shark,

Common Hawksbill turtles and green turtles.



Then we had a port presentation giving us more info about Muscat itself as well as a more about the country.



The population is 78 million.

It is a sultanate.

The coast is 1700 km long. It borders the Persian Gulf and the Gulf of Oman, and the Arabian Sea.

Port Sultan Qabus is where dock, at Mutra which is about 30 mins from city of Muscat.

The Mosque has a golden dome.

The Muttrah Souk with interesting architecture and artwork, old Muscat and forts, mosques, castles and towers are all for visiting.

There are old Portuguese Forts , Al Jalali Fort and Al Murani Fort at he entrance of the harbour

The men wear a dishdasha, a long white robe and also an Arabic cap, the women often bright costumes covers by a black robe the burka, and face covering.

Oman has approximately 1000 forts and watchtowers.

The 3rd largest city is called Sohar, the second Dhofar.

There is a states of an insincere burner in the park



Sultan Quaboos went to Sandhurst. He was a very astute ruler.

There is 2.5 riyals to £, has a very stable currency.

Sultan Qaboos had the Grand Mosque built as a gift for his 30th year of rule, opened in 2001. It holds 20 thousand worshippers.

There is a chandelier in the Mosque made from 600,000 Swarovski crystals, with a 14 m drop that weighs 8.5 tons. 35 smaller chandeliers hang throughout the rest of the building.

And the 2 nd largest hand loomed Persian carpet in the world, 1.7 million knots, 400 weavers 4 years to make. It is 70 m y 60 m.



There are 6 Royal residences, the Al Alam Palace is the newest, 1972. Has Blue and gold mushroom shaped columns to support the roof.



The sultan didn’t have any direct heirs and so he wrote down the name of a member of his family who he thought should succeed him in his will. When he died turned out to be his cousin who inherited the Sultanate and so the country continues to be ruled peaceful,y, all respecting Qaboos wishes.



We arrived in Muscat, Oman at approx 7.45 am.

Tied up and ready for shore excursions by 8.20. We had booked to go on the Muscat Impressions, departing at 830 and so went ashore as soon as we could.

Got on the wrong bus to begin with so had to clamber off and on to the correct one. Within what seemed like 20 metres we had to get off that bus and go through the Omani custom building. I couldn’t believe it, the steps of the bus were so steep, my knees were agony before we went anywhere. By the end of the day I think the whole bus felt sorry for me!

The first stop was the Grand Mosque. Everything about it was very grand. I did consider waiting on bus, but forced myself to go in, despite the number of steps. Was absolutely worth it. Managed to negotiate steps with many offers of willing arms to help me and just about keep up with group. Grounds were immaculately kept, lots of marble terraces. Roger seemed to know half of the bus, think many were his breakfast companions!

It was all pretty magnificent, carpet, chandelier, marble, carvings, and this was only the women’s prayer hall.

We had been informed about the requirements of the dress code, especially for women, covered head to toe, including ankles, had our scarves ready. Leaving shoes outside. I think I’ve already given all the data for the main prayer hall of the men. it was beautiful. Have some lovely photos too.

We must have spent an hour there, it was so peaceful and calm.



After this back on the bus (my poor knees….) and off to the Souk. At last! Somehow I had travelled all through Asia without going in a souk. It was surprisingly accessible for the wheelchair so we were able to have a very good look around at all the stalls and stores. Everyone wanted to sell us something of course….for a very good price madam…… Bought / bartered for some of the Omani hats for the boys…….at a very good price!……..and some trousers…….an even better price!

Next stop was the museum which was in a house. I stayed in the coach this time, couldn’t face more steps. Abdul, the guide, explained lots about the exhibitions, articles, and Roger said it was very interesting. Then we went a little further into the old town, via the palace gates ( photo stop) and round to old harbour to see the forts ( photo stop).

Then back to ship.

Needed siesta after all this,

Then supper and eve show, black singer, Nate, from west end. Said had played Bob Marley plus more. Did have good Motown/ Soul voice but kept putting his own arrangement on ends of songs, a bit full of himself! Sang several Motown songs.



Wednesday 29th March Sea Day 1 of 9



Have started going to Trivia quiz in pub at 10.30 every morning, joining Diane and Richard. Get on really well with them, very down to earth.

Then we went up to pool area for a drink until time for lunch. Today was our 2nd Complimentary World Cruise lunch, with bottomless wine etc.

Menu a bit special, had smoked Duck, Harissa lamb and Baileys panna cotta. ( lady sitting next to me was right, couldn’t taste the Bailey’s!)

After lunch went to get some information about southern Navigation 2025…….

Air con very effective in ship so went up to sun deck to warm up……before going off for siesta.

After went for snack for supper and then to cabin. R went to theatre, saw a vocal duo who did songs from the shows, I watched tv a while and did some knitting before crashing out early….these lunches are hard work!





Thursday, 30th. Sea Day 2



Happy Birthday Leila!



Port talk, Malta, we passed as have been several times, went to morning quiz.

Then R went to talk about UAE. Still interesting info, even tho have left the gulf now.



Dubai started off as a fishing village, with boats on the beach in the 1930s. They were ruled by the tribal system, the most powerful of the sheiks held the most respect and stopped the bickering.

When oil was discovered they used the expertise of BP etc to exploit the oilfields. The sultan was farsighted, as already mentioned in development Dubai. Had a dream to produce the equivalence of Las Vegas in the desert and make the country self sufficient for when the oil runs out.

To make it a main trading and investment centre for the Middle East. All the states stuck together because of the oil. Abu Dhabi is the biggest, then Dubai. There is a hierarchy of business, the Sultan and his family on the top of the tree, Brits and Germans ( ex pats) involved at next level of business, the Indian administrators keeping the books. Then the Filipino, Chinese, doing the manual labour. The Iranians were mixed with the Arabs and Bedouin tribes living off the desert.



The weather is warm and sunny, so day spent along usual lines, quiz, Neptune pool tables to chat, read, knit, before siesta, another quiz and supper.

Palladium is Hollies singer Peter Howarth,who joined them about 20 years ago. Has been in West End doing Roy Orbison, touring as him too, as well as touring with the Hollies who he assured us are going strong. Their first hit he said was 1958, which makes them getting on a bit!!!

He sang a lot of Roy Orbison, but well, although not my favourite, and then som Hollies.



Friday 31st. Sea Day. 3



Trivia quiz. 10.30,

Roger to talk Anthony Malkin, about Bedouin Culture

Lunchtime chat with Diane and Richard,

Linda Lusardi speaker in pm, of Page 3 fame. With her husband. Seemed very down to earth and talked about her interesting life . Interesting format, sat on stage with husband who semi interviewed her, sort of wound her up so she could follow his thread and talk. Worked quite well.

Quiz no 2 before supper, not doing too badly considering questions. Depends on theme, anything between 12 and 16 out of 20.

Maurice Grumbleweed in theatre again. Think he’d had some lubrication, was speaker rather fast. Entertaining to a degree, sang better than his jokes, which got more and more sexist.



A speaker called Tony Mallon was onboard for our 9 day stretch to the Med.

His resume read.

35 yrs a paratro

Director of Leadership Training Royal Military Academy, Sandhurst, Consultant

Worked in Dubai.. Defence Attaché in UAE



I went to a couple of his talks, Roger went to more.



Bedouin Culture Presentation.

Men only, Camel and tent

Barren and extreme environment.

How does that existence affect modern day.



Who are they?

Ethnic group of Arabs with tribal identity.

History of nomads following grazing, working way around the desert.

There are some women, unveiled

There is always a coffee pot in camp ready for a guest

A guest is always on the right of the host

Tents are pitched so that an always identify directon Mecca

Tent called BaytChar. - house of hair(goats hair)



Role of women

Have considerable freedom with almost equal status

There is segregation, but as sense of modesty and protective

Carpets are laid over sand

Date fronds are used for weaving useful things, mats, baskets, walls, roofs etc.

The diet of the Bedouins is rather basic as there is limited access.

Anyone who visited would be treated to extreme respect. Guests were a guest of God, invited to drink coffee.

In little cups, with slurps, tea, sweet flavoured with mint or sage.

Dyafa ( hospitality) is a religious obligation, to share food and drink

Hamasa ( courage/ bravery) is an indicated willingness to defend one’s tribe.

The camel is very important, it is transport for carrying cargo, female for breeding and milk, and makes meat.

Omani house is very simple, it will have a picture of the Sultan Qaboos,

Islam respects idolatry. There will be a carpet, typically the coffee pot will be brought and all will sit on low stools, benches, ad I should get a name.

Some

Falconry is a sport throughout the Middle East. The faraj system of irrigation is continuing to be guaranteed for the vegetation and water supply.

Communication styles are

Circular, Direct, Flattery, trust a foreigner or family, never confrontational, but never saying no, avoiding the word, changing subject until issue withers away! Have a sense of humour.

Insh’Allah. If God wills it

Not so far from catholic …….. the Will of Gid



More Oman



Straight of Hormuz. 2/5th of world’s traded oil currently shipped by tanker through a 34 mile wide passage.

Dhofar War. Operation Storm that ended in ‘76 left Sultan Qoboos in charge of his country due to British support, not publicly known

Oman is the Switzerland of the Middle East

Remained neutral

Actively encouraged western tourism



Saturday April 1st. Sea Day 4



Happy birthday Mandy!



Another muster practice, must complete at least every 30 days at sea.

Anthony Malik talk on Oman, the Switzerland of the Middle East and international Diplomacy.

Off to usual haunts, sitting by Neptune pool, catching up days gossip with Richard and Diane. Sunny but windy, 29 ish. Too windy to stay out so found somewhere to sit inside.

Found another quiz in the afternoon, 16/20!

And another before supper. 18/20

Really is Trivia!



Nate Simpson back on in the Palladium, he really does have a good voice but wish he’d just get on and sing! Don’t want to join in!



Sunday 2nd. Sea Day 5



29degrees C



Roger off to church

Trivia 10.30



Had an emergency medical stop in night at Jeddah for a hospital transfer





The Red Sea Anthony Malkin



Was hoping for historical background but it became a bit political. Some interesting facts

Situated on the Sinai Peninsula, it is a sea level waterway.

Connects the Mediterranean with the Red Sea. It s 120 miles long.

Ion 1853 Ferdinand de Lessops started the Suez Canal Company

So in 1869 there was a direct route from the North Atlantic to the Indian Ocean, via the Mediterranean.

Originally it was single lane with passing places in the Great Bitter Lake. And then The Small Bitter Lake

The Canal has been closed during the SixDay War 5th June 1967 , closed for 8 years until 5/6/75.

The Constantinople Convention agreed a clear passage.

Agreement between France, Italy, Austria, Nederland, Hungary, Russia, Spain, Turkey, Britain for a clear passage.

In 2014 the canal was widened at Ballarat Bypass for 35 km to speed up transit

It was intended that 49 ships a day should transit, now it is 97 ships a day do



The canal belong to the Egyptians and continues to be dredged and widened.

There is a new bridge, the As - Salam Bridge which links Egypt and the Sinai.



In 1869 the Brits invaded Egypt to take control og the rudeness

1914- 1918 this Brits fights off the Ottomans empire, there are attacks against Kantara.

In 1956 Egypt nationalises the canal

For decades Suez became a front line between Israel and Egyptian armies.

It is thought that the Evergreen disaster may have been cause by the pilots on board. Question is who is in charge of vessel? 2 pilots may have been arguing …..

The voyage around. Cape of Good Hope extends journey by 8000+ miles



Went to cinema in afternoon to see Whitney Houston’s film I Wanna Dance with Somebody. Really good……..didn’t sleep for long….!!



Just managed to fit in another quiz at 5.30 before supper.



Headliners this evening repeating the Dance show in the Palladian theatre. Another amazing show, particularly the Can- can and the whole ensemble finishing off with Irish dancing to Lord of the Dance. Superb.



Monday 3rd. Sea Day 6



29 degrees C



Got up and went to breakfast for a change.



Trivia quiz, met friends for chat later. Wind being funnelled on Neptune deck and so tried out back deck Aquarius pool where wind less strong.

After lunch went to theatre for matinee(!) of Arcadia Orchestra for Dixieland Jazz concert

Another new film we hadn’t seen( most of films since Australia have been repeats of the ones they played in first half of journey) A man called Otto. Tom Hanks. Excellent, didn’t go to sleep at all!! Super film.



Euphoria, a vocal duo were on in the Palladian. Their voices did complement each other, altho Connor’s voice was very high.



During the day we had been travelling along the Red Sea. Could see hills in the distance on shore and quite a few oil rigs in the sea. There were more and more ships, mostly container ships and tankers accumulating .

We were to anchor in the evening at the beginning of the canal to begin a convoy first thing, after 4 am. Order - warships, naval vessels, cruise liners, container ships, tankers.

Transit takes 12 hours along the 120 mile canal.



Tuesday 4th April. Sea Day 7



Transit Suez Canal.



Roger up at 4.30, just to check Captain getting off correctly! We actually got going soon after 5 am with Arcadia leading the pack. Roger went off to breakfast soon after 6 to the self service on deck 9 so he could observe proceedings, where it was already very busy.



Good weather, warm and sunny on Neptune deck (9) where we went after the trivia quiz and could see the terrain passing us by. In some places it seemed to be quite wide but in others very little leeway either side of the ship. Travelling at about 12 knots. Passed one or 2 towns, some military establishments. It was hilly in some parts too , but mainly an awful lot of sand.

As went further north the temperature became noticeably cooled and the wind changed direction. Was soon driven inside after about 3 pm.

We were out of the canal and in the Mediterranean by about 5 pm.

Managed to fit in another quiz before supper and then go to see Maurice Grumbleweed again, who again sang very well, much better than his jokes!



Wednesday 5th. Sea Day 8



Back in the Mediterranean. Temperature about 10 degrees lower than in the Red Sea. Northerly wind. Neptune I roof closed.



Trivia quiz and then I went up to Neptune pool area and knitted while chatted. Anthony Malkin still has more talks about his exploits in the. Middle East and the politics of the area and so Roger and Richard. wen t off to hear the next one.

The Navy chap gave another talk in the afternoon about the role of the Navy and the around the world important it.

One of the Headliners vocalists had a concert after supper in the Globe, Natalie Thom and gave an amazing concert. She said it was her first solo outing. I hope she manages to get discovered, she could definitely give the West End singers something to think about.



Thursday 6th. Sea Day 9



Pedicure 9 am

Much of same, Trivia Quiz, more knitting and chatting, managed to find a table without other people ( yesterday we had gatecrashed a single gentleman who had been quietly reading. It with 3 empty chairs. He’d managed to last about an hour with us but then gave up and went away,) .

Anthony still had more info to impart about Middle East so Roger and Richard went off to talk.

Roger went to cinema in the afternoon, black and white classic about Malta and 2nd world war, Jack Hawkins, Alec Guinness etc, while I went to Arcadia passenger Talent Show in theatre.

There was.

the Ukulele group ( counted about 30 of them,)

A brave elderly gentleman who played a piano piece slowly and surely.

Followed by a much more proficient show off who was excellent.

Tap dance group

Ballet group

A not very good comedian

A couple of quite good singers,

Then a very good rendition of If I were a Rich Man

And A story teller in rhyme who didn’t quite get the microphone right but I think she was very witty.

Rounded of with a group of 5 or 6 guys doing a half Monty and thankfully did keep their pants on!!!



What a lot of brave and talented people.



Peter Howarth was in the theatre again, the one Holly, more Roy Orbison songs and finished off with The Air that I breathe and He Ain’t Heavy, He’s My. Brother to great appreciation by the audience. He also played a song from the Travelling Will worries. Still an Oldie but Goody.



Friday 7th April.



Valetta, Malta



Nothing planned except in Roger’s head. Have been hear several times before. Had listened to the port talk and Roger was intrigued by the new lift which transported you from the port level up to the old town for €1 return.

First we had to catch the shuttle boat to take us across the harbour from our berth by the grain store to the main terminal. Roger a bit annoyed as when we had come into harbour early this morning the better berths had been empty. Thought it might be P&O savings money…….. So it was frustrating standing in a queue for nearly an hour before we went anywhere.

It would have taken quite some time if we’d had to climb up to the town by road so it was just right. The pavement along the quayside was very good and we were soon in the upper Gardens leading to the Main Street and old town. It was quite a cool day, and I was pleased I had my coat on, first time since January! However it was sunny though a little. cloudy.

Fabulous view of the harbour from the top of the gardens, leading to the battlements and was expecting the noonday cannon to go off. However I think they had cancelled it as it was Good Friday.

Lots of tourists around but we had a walk towards the Main Street. We soon found a table at an open air restaurant, perfect to watch the people going by, near one of the churches.

Well, you have to have calamari’s in the Med, which were excellent and shared a large sea bass. Yum!

It was quite sheltered and so we enjoyed the sunshine altho it did get cooler with more clouds as the afternoon progressed. Time to head back, via an ice cream shop for pudding, a rum and raisin Haagan Das cone.

Back the way we came, altho slightly up hill now so we went very leisurely, my turn to push the wheelchair!

Back Theo the gardens and down the lift. A little look in the duty free shop and the rejoining the queue for the shuttle ferry back to the ship. Thankfully not quite as long this time.

We had booked the cinema for early evening so decided on a rest if I was to have any hope of staying awake! The film blurb had seemed promising, a teenage boy had to look after sick grandmother and changes both their lives, Charlotte Rampling, but actually it was quite depressing, even tho I stayed awake.

It was the Sailaway when we came out so went out onto the back deck to wave goodbye to Malta. The harbour is very large and looked very impressive with all the buildings lit up.





Saturday 8th April. Sea Day.



Trivia, find somewhere to sit on Neptune deck, chat and a knit while Roger and Richard went to Talk about DNA.

Cheryl Baker ( Bucks Fizz) now on ship and gave a talk about her life this afternoon. Very down to earth , interesting life. An audience with in a couple of days.

Found another trivia quiz before went to supper. Getting into these!

Evening performance was Neil Lockwood from ELO part 2. As Geoff Lynn (I think) left the band he took over. Played several ELO hits. Very clever

pianist and guitarist. Excellent show. Audience really got into the music, I suppose we’re all ageing rock fans at heart! ( right age being the operative word )



Into the last week of our wonderful trip.

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