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Published: February 24th 2016
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30 years ago, there was a saying that Norfolk Island (NI) was for "the newly-wed and the nearly dead." The honeymooners and the elderly were the tourists most attracted to NI because it was a safe, quiet haven with sunshine, beaches and great shopping. Today, you may still hear this saying but things have changed. The island now attracts people of all ages who love the short flight from Auckland (or Australia), the great package deals available and the huge number of activities on offer.
The first thing you have to remember is that you will need a rental car. Don't make the mistake of looking at a map and deciding you can walk all round the small island. It is hilly and has more roads than you expect. So - you will need a rental car! Luckily, if you grab a package deal, a rental car will be part of it. If you choose to make your own arrangements, or book cheap flights through Grabaseat, you can easily prebook a car online or hire one when you arrive. But during the summer season you should definitely prebook. Note: if you see a sign on the island that
says "Impassable when wet", take it seriously. Rain squalls can appear very quickly and the torrential rain can make a few of the roads too slippery to drive on.
NI offers a good range of accommodation. There are plenty of places to stay right in the heart of Burnt Pine which are great if you want somewhere close to restaurants and shops. But you will have a rental car so being further out of town won't be a problem. Anson Bay Lodge often comes up as part of an inexpensive package deal and, while it is about 10 minutes away from the township, it offers a sense of privacy and tranquillity that makes it a good choice if you don't want to be surrounded by other tourists.
Once you have arrived and been met by someone from your accommodation, you will either be guided to your rental car or driven through Burnt Pine. This may have been listed in your package as a 'free orientation tour'. Once you have settled in, you will need food. There are plenty to restaurants to choose from. My favourite is Norfolk Blue. You can get lunch and dinner
Emily Bay, looking across to Lone Pine
A beautiful, safe bay for swimming and the glass bottomed boat starts in this bay. Great for the kids. there and once you have tried their amazing food, I guarantee you will go back again. And again. It is in a lovely setting and the service is as excellent as the food.
If you are on a budget, or travelling with kids, you may want to prepare some of your own meals. Foodland, which everyone refers to as Foodies, is in the mall and can provide most of the groceries you need, along with other specialty shops in Burnt Pine. Be warned that you may be surprised at how expensive the food is. It all has to be imported which adds to price and many don't realise this. One thing my mother didn't like was the fruit and vegetables available that had been grown on the island. The best quality produce goes to the restaurants. The produce available in the shops tasted great but weren't the perfect looking ones mum was used to eating at home. I gave up trying to convince her they were wonderful and bought her takeaways instead.
NI has always been famous for its shopping. Some of the shops I first visited decades ago are still thriving. However, the
prices aren't always as good as in the past and a few haven't kept up with the need to offer excellent service. On my last trip, I felt some had become so used to tourists arriving and spending money that they hadn't realised many of us were grabbing cheap travel deals and weren't arriving with wallets full of cash. But there are a few you have to visit. One is Madisons Jewelers. They have a very tempting range and offer a high level of knowledge and service. And if you have kids or grandkids, a visit to The Bounty Centre is essential. Once you are in there, be prepared to spend time and money as their range of toys, games and models is breath-taking. If your wallet survives, head of to the Mini Golf Shop for even more toys and games. And ice-cream. You really should try their ice- cream before heading back into town to shop for clothes or souvenirs...........
For me, NI is all about photography. Stunning scenery, a variety of wildlife and historic buildings. You can stand in one spot down at Kingston and photograph all of these at the same time. For even
more options, get out on the water. If you are lucky, a ship will arrive which will offer you some great photo ops (from the shore) as goods are brought in on lighters.
If you are interested in the history of the island, check out their museums. Try to wander round Kinsgton early in the morning, before all the other tourists arrive, and soak up the atmosphere. Take time to walk through the cemetery and read the inscriptions. There is a great book available about the ghosts of NI which is worth buying and you can even take a ghost tour. Don't laugh at the stories or offend the islanders by not believing them. Most of them will have their own stories.
There are a couple of tour companies on the island. Some of the tours offer you the opportunity to visit places not open to anyone who isn't on a tour. This usually means you end up at the operator's aunt's/mother's/grandmother's house which is fine as you get to meet people who are willing to let you peek into their lives and homes, for a price. Or try some of the most popular
Government House
This is open to the public once a month. It is well worth visiting but be warned that not all of the volunteers are friendly and you may be given very strict instructions on what you can and can't do. tours which include The Sound and Light Show, The Progressive Dinner and Night as a Convict.
One important thing to remember while you are enjoying this amazing island is that the animals have the right of way at all times. On my first trip I discovered the cattle could just wander right through the township. Some thought this was interesting, some were terrified and needed to be rescued by those of us who weren't and the shopkeepers hated it. Cattle stops at both end of Burnt Pine were put in place which solved that problem. But they still roam all over the island and you will be fined if you hit one of them. This also includes the hundreds of chickens and geese who like to let tourists know that they are in charge. I have sat and watched geese lurking in the shade of the trees at the bottom of the hill that leads to Kingston. At the sound of a car they are likely to get up and waddle into the middle of the road, causing tourists to suddenly brake and then wonder how to get them to move. Or those at Kingston would wait
until someone dared to try and photograph something on their part of the island and they would run at them, hissing and honking. They always knew who would run and would avoid those of us who clearly weren't going to be impressed.
If you are planning your first trip to NI, I know you will enjoy it. If you are haven't been there for a while and want to recapture the magic you felt on a previous trip, hopefully you will find that magic again. On my 7th trip, I failed to find it. The island's personality felt as though it had changed. Would I recommend NI as a holiday destination? Yes. Will I go back? No.
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