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Published: September 28th 2015
I have been camping at Cape le Grande Beach in Cape le Grande National Park for four nights now. Tomorrow I will move on, travelling west along the southern coast of Western Australia.
This place is like no other place I have ever visited in terms of the topography. Huge shiny, round dome like granite boulders dominate the skyline in whichever direction one looks. And in between there are acres and acres of land covered in what would appear to be the most stunted scrubby growth – until you set off across it on a path that winds through sheltered fertile vibrant gullies massed with the most amazing wild flowers. And on upwards across bare wind swept rock faces as you scale the heights of these granite ridges and are rewarded by the most spectacular breath taking views of an deep blue ocean studded with a multitude of islands (of the same dome shaped topography) and which changes colour to ever lighter, brighter and appealing shades of turquoise and aqua until it laps pristine white endless beaches behind which lie rolling sand dunes.
As one fellow camper commented to me the other evening, just when you think you have
already seen the most beautiful places in the country, you move on and discover another equally beautiful, and probably even more beautiful spot. We are indeed a lucky people to live on a continent so rich and diverse, and I count myself absolutely blessed to be able to wander its length and breadth and enjoy these riches face to face.
The wind does roar up from the south pole here at a furious pace and with quite a bite. But the campground is snuggly positioned behind the beach and absolutely protected from the worst of the weather. One has to emerge onto the windswept beach to make and receive phone calls the signal for which comes directly across the Bay to the west at Esperance. Camping spaces are at a premium here – there are only 15 spots here at Cape le Grande Beach. When I arrived here the other afternoon I was dismayed to find the “campground full” sign already hanging at the entrance and the witches hats blocking the entry to the camp area. But mother bountiful smiled on me yet again. Standing in a small group of men chatting at the entrance was a chap that
I had been talking to that morning at the campground we both stayed in in Esperance. We had shared our plans for coming on here that night and he had arrived just half an hour or so before me and secured the last available camp spot. Knowing that I was coming, he was actually waiting for me, and he invited me to share his spot. As he was travelling in a Subaru and sleeping in a tiny tent each night, there was plenty of space for Sally and I.
He left the next morning, and so I have had this spot to myself ever since – and the campground continues to be full each night. Thank you again mother bountiful.
The weather was warm enough, indeed hot enough, on the first two days here, to make one think a swim would be a good idea. But after going in up to my knees, I soon discovered that it is not only the winds that come direct from the south pole here – it was absolutely freezing and my feet soon went numb. So I, and many others with the same thought, beat a hasty retreat.
here has been peaceful, creative and restful. I have wandered the beach photographing treasures and spotting and photographing birds that they say are threatened species here. I have endlessly photographed flowers, the unique topography and landforms and birds large and small.
Now I am ready to move on.
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