Golden Bay and Farewell Spit


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Oceania » New Zealand » South Island » Nelson Region » Golden Bay
December 7th 2005
Published: December 15th 2005
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Takaka

Follow the coast west and north up to Farewell Spit, which looks like a kiwi head and it's very long beak!

Liger BayLiger BayLiger Bay

It's pretty much my favorite animal.
Hello again from Takaka,

Lots of pictures in this one, so be sure to click on "Full Entry".

I've spent a few days at the Shambhala hostel, and it's been a truly rejuevenating experience. As I mentioned before, it's a totally self sufficient place. It relies solely on environmentally friendly methods: composting toilets, rainwater collection for water, wood burning stoves, and solar power. The owner, Jon, is a practising Buddhist and has built the hostel, (including a yoga/meditation room) in a very unobtrusive way. The result is an extremely peaceful and natural setting that promotes a lot of great conversation between guests.

The actual hostel is about half way between the towns of Takaka and Collingwood on the Golden Bay. These small towns are actually just a row of shops along the main roadway. They serve as bases for the vibrant artist community that thrives in this region. Craft stores, organic farm stands, drumming schools, yoga centers were typical sights.

I spent almost a full week driving along the beautiful stretch of coast taking in the sights. I visited the Farewell Spit, a large peninsula which is actually the largest natural sandbar in the world, and at that, in the shape of a Kiwi head! It's a natural wonder as thousands of endangered birds stop there annually on their migration to Sibera and Alaska. I ALSO happened to experience my first moments of true terror in nature on that peninsula.

It can only be described as a truly desolate and remote place. With the wrong weather and an over active imagination, you can really manage to spook yourself. You all know (and I suspect, to varying degrees, enjoy) my disposition often resembling that of a small child. Out on the Spit, amongst the gloomy weather and intimidating sand dunes, I managed to convince myself that I had gotten lost! The strong winds immediately cover any signs of life and there were no signs posted for what seemed like an eternity.

My fears ran away with me and I imagined I would fall into the large, soft dunes and be slowly suffocated, alone. I tried to think of how jungle tales described a struggle in quicksand... I was on my own, I thought. I slowly trudged ahead, trying to reason with myself that I had no reason to believe I was lost. After ages, I rounded another sand dune and managed to spot a little clearing where an obvious trail soon lead me through a sheep pasture and back to the visitors' center. Later, when I realized that I was never actually OFF the marked path, I had a good laugh at my own expense. 😊

Some other beautiful sights were the Wanui Falls that are actually in the Abel Tasman Park, Karikiriki Beach, PuPu Springs (which despite their name, are some of the clearest freshwater springs in the world boasting coral reef-like colors and marine life). I have to say however, the real winner in this little week of independence was "world famous" Mussel Inn, a tiny local bar that was located across the road from Shambhala's dirt path.

In an area that probably boasts no more than a few thousand homes and businesses, this amazing little pub and cafe manages to be full to the brim every night. They brew their own beer, have live bands itching to play to their remarkable audiences and intimate settings. If you ever manage to head over there, try the Golden Goose Lager, listen to the live shows, watch the dred headed locals dancin' by themselves, the toddlers walking around barefoot in the beer garden or the teenagers swinging on a tire swing. Warm, fun and no pretenses. You'll have a good time, I promise.

Next entry, from Akaroa!
meesh 😊


Additional photos below
Photos: 26, Displayed: 24


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Walk to Wanui 5Walk to Wanui 5
Walk to Wanui 5

"Maximum Load: 1 person" Crap.
Walk to Wanui 6Walk to Wanui 6
Walk to Wanui 6

Uhm, yeah. Ps, I'm afraid of heights.
Walk to Wanui 8Walk to Wanui 8
Walk to Wanui 8

AUGH! Haha. Just kidding.
Walk to Wanui 10Walk to Wanui 10
Walk to Wanui 10

Absolutely deafening
Pupu SpringsPupu Springs
Pupu Springs

So clear
Pupu Springs 2Pupu Springs 2
Pupu Springs 2

And vibrant colors to boot.
Pupu Springs 4Pupu Springs 4
Pupu Springs 4

A bit of a lesson for ya, if you're keen
Pupu Springs 4Pupu Springs 4
Pupu Springs 4

Old riverbed
Farewell SpitFarewell Spit
Farewell Spit

It's spooky out here. Check out that raincloud pouring buckets over the Cook Straight.
Farewell Spit 2Farewell Spit 2
Farewell Spit 2

Mountains became ghosts in a matter of minutes.
Farewell Spit 3Farewell Spit 3
Farewell Spit 3

Black Swans
Farewell Spit 3Farewell Spit 3
Farewell Spit 3

Getting lost amongst the dunes. Not my finest hour.
Farewell Spit 5Farewell Spit 5
Farewell Spit 5

Wicked trees
Farewell Spit 6Farewell Spit 6
Farewell Spit 6

It took every ounce of self control to keep from plucking one and taking to it with a set of shears :)
Wharariki BeachWharariki Beach
Wharariki Beach

I was wiped. This is as far as I got on the beach ;)
ShambhalaShambhala
Shambhala

Home for 4 nights
Shambhala 2Shambhala 2
Shambhala 2

Alternative accomodations
Shambhala 3Shambhala 3
Shambhala 3

Our "TV" room... actually a patio overlooking the bay
Shambhala 4Shambhala 4
Shambhala 4

Everyone's favorite show
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Shambhala 5

and of course, Prime Time


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