The Queen Charlotte Track

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My last stop on the south island was one I had been long anticipating. The Queen Charlotte Track follows the arms of water and land reaching off the tip of the south island and into the Cook Strait (the body of water between the two islands). The water is the brightest of blues (almost as brilliant as my friend Jesse's eyes...if you have met him or seen pictures, you understand the comparison). The slivers of land look like bobbing scones topped with heaping spoonfuls of pesto. A delicious view! This track is "flash", as the Kiwis say for "special" or "fancy" because you stay in hostels along the way instead of in rustic back country huts. For 10$ the ferry that takes you to the beginning of the track will carry your bags on ahead of you and deliver them to wherever you are staying for the night. BONUS!

I walked the track in three days and they were a long three days. About 16 miles the first day, followed by a 14 and then a 12 mile day. Next time I would do it in the recommended 4 or 5 days but it was great to get the exercise and without a heavy pack, I spirited along without too many hang ups.

My first nights stay was the highlight of the walk. Grandma Nolene has been hosting backpackers in her cottage overlooking Queen Charlotte Sound for 12 years since her husband passed away. She is 76 and has had over 15,000 guests from over 73 countries. She greeted me warmly with tea and cookies and showed me to my room which was a welcome sight to a tired tramper. The lace curtains blew slightly in the passing breeze and a clean towel and perfectly made bed awaited me. There was a young kiwi couple staying as well and we chatted in the kitchen over dinner and multiple cups of tea until we could not possibly stay awake any longer.

I walked the second and 3rd days with a group of four women (all about my parents age). They do a New Zealand Great Walk together every year at this time and came from all corners of the 2 islands. Their friendship and comradery reminded me a bit of the Prothro Aunts/ sisters and I loved being in the company of 4 "mom" types. They took pity on my lowly backpacker diet and bought me a glass of wine in celebration of completion of our second day and a latte at a waterfront cafe before we all parted ways at the end of the hike.

I was quite sad to watch the south island floating away from the deck of the Interislander ferry. It felt like the end of a journey and I knew I was leaving friends and places I may never see again. This trip has made the world feel simultaneously enormous and small. My list of must dos and must sees grows ever longer but I continue to feel rooted and connected to the states. A glance at a map or the stars and I feel worlds away but the distance and time quickly disappear with a phone call that breaches the miles.

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Photos

Grandma Nolene
and her blind dog

New Zealand Silver Fern
an icon of NZ.....These unique ferms are green on top and silver underneath!

Comments

[esther]

Lovely description...........
Can't wait for the pictures..................I can feel you drawing closer to home. Am anxious to hear what you have to say about the North Island and the huge lake you were talking about in your last email. The ladies who befriended you were, I'm sure, charmed by you as well. Sounds like you did a lot of walking............what's the season? Fall-like? Will keep checking back. Much love, E