The North Island

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March 14, 2011 - Cave Stream
After our adventures in Arthur's Pass, we returned to Jim and Helen's in Christchurch. We thoroughly clean, return, and thank them for the use of their car. Having access to a vehicle was essential to our journeys being possible the way they were, and we can't express enough gratitude for it. We had a few days to kill before catching the ferry to the North Island, so we decided to take a brief trip to see Cave Stream.
This is back towards Arthur's Pass. Cave Stream is exactly that: a cave with a stream. It's much more exciting then that, but it is difficult to imagine. Unfortunately we weren't able to get any pictures of it. The cave is about one kilometer long. Inside it is pitch black, so you must walk with headlights. You are in water the entire way. Thankfully, it wasn't very cold.
The stream that carved the limestone cavern out was mostly ankle or shin deep (once or twice waist high). The walls of the cave reminded me of seeing under water ocean caves. They were about two meters wide, less in some places. The ceiling, as it were, was about 15 to 20 feet above us, in some areas even higher then that (yes, I realize that I'm sporadically switching between the metric system and US measurements... I like variety?).
I've never walked through a cave like that before. It was fun to turn our lights off, and plunge ourselves into total darkness. It's incredible to consider the eons it must have taken that stream to cut a passage through the rock.
This little day trip wraps up our time in the South Island. It's been truly amazing; everything I thought it could be and more. My time here in this awesome country is drawing to a close. Time to head north and finish it.

-The North Island-

March 16, 2011 - Wellington
We said our good-byes to our friends in Christchurch and started the journey north. Leaving is bittersweet, but I am excited to see the North Island. We obtained a car from a rental company. It was free (except for gas), as we were volunteering to relocate it to Picton, which is where we had to go to catch the ferry anyways.
As we drive north, the landscape changes. Gone are the mountains. Instead you find rolling green hills, and farmlands. We stop in the coastal town of Kaikoura for the night. In the morning we set out for Picton.
Picton is a small town on the northern most point of the South Island. We arrive at noon, and deliver the rental car. Then it's on to the ferry.
This is the largest boat I've ever been on (which means I need to make it a point to take a cruise or something). The large vessel can take more then a thousand people, and also transport vehicles as well. The smooth crossing takes about three hours. I spend most of it chilling out up top, on the sun deck. From there I'm able to bid farewell to the South Island, as it slowly slips into the hazy horizon. All the while, I watch as the looming North Island gets ever larger as we draw nearer. When the ferry turns the corner into a large bay I see it, Wellington.
Wellington is the capital of New Zealand. It's a cool city, with a bit of an European feeling to it. Wellington itself (including the burbs) has a population close to that of the entire South Island. After so long in areas with less people, the busy bustle of the big city seems almost overwhelming.
We leave the ferry and head to Mark and Karen's place. Karen is Jim and Helen's daughter, whom Andrew and I met on our first tramp in the country, what seems like ages ago. Mark, Karen's husband, was also on that fateful tramp. It was great to see our new friends again.
They take us on a brief night tour of the city, and surrounding coast. We even get to drive by the home of Jemaine Clement, from Flight of the Conchords! Alas... he didn't appear to be home (but stalking celebrities in foreign countries is kinda fun... now where's Peter Jackson?). I like Wellington. It's one of the cooler cities I've ever been to. We'll chill here tomorrow, then head up to do the Tongariro Crossing.

March 19, 2011 - The Tongariro Crossing
Yesterday, after Mark and Karen were done with their respective jobs, we all head north. It's about a four hour drive from Wellington to Tongariro National Park. We're joined by one of Karen's work mates, and fellow American, Lorie. The six of us drive up in two cars to meet up with Nigel and his friend Nick. Chad had met Nigel on his first trip to New Zealand. Time to meet the man behind the legend.
This morning starts early. The eight of us were off to walk the Tongariro Crossing. This is one of New Zealand's nine Great Walks, and the first that we've done. Compared to the routes and tracks we've been doing, this is incredibly easygoing. I'm fine with that. So, apparently, are the 2000 other people on the walk. It's insane! There's a cue on the walk!
The cool thing about this walk is that you're tramping on and around volcanoes (some still active): Tongariro, Ngauruhoe, and Ruapehu. While the rolling hills of the landscape aren't as inspirational as the Southern Alps, these volcanic mountains are incredible to behold, as they literally rise from the wide surrounding flatlands. Everywhere you look you see giant clumps of dried red or black lava and remnants of old flows.
Of particular note is Mt. Ngauruhoe. This huge and magnificently classic looking cone volcano was used as Mt. Doom in the Lord of the Rings. We take a side trip to climb to the top. The persistent fog gives way as we ascend the steep slopes, and soon we're above the cloud. The views are remarkable. I've never stood atop a volcano, and peered down into the crater. There's something fittingly poetic about my first being Mt. Doom, and the timing coinciding near the end of our journeys in New Zealand.
When we hike down the steep scree and rejoin the Great Walk path, the throngs of people have thinned out. We continue along a rocky desolate terrain, somewhat reminiscent of parts of Arizona. Sometimes the strong smell of sulfur washes over us (this oder is very similar to rotten eggs). We pass a few blue-green lakes, the Emerald Lakes. Beautiful to behold, but reeking of brimstone.
Soon we cross the highest point, and it's time to descend down. The path zig-jags back and forth forever. Eventually you reach a green bush line, and soon after that a forest, which leads to the car park.
It's easy to see why this is called a Great Walk. It's a big distance at 20 kilometers (including our detour up Ngauruhoe), however the way is fairly easy the whole time. Reaching the top of Mt. Doom was a nice bonus. It was great tramping again with Mark and Karen, and now I've at last met Chad's friend Nigel. One more tramp to go!

March 20, 2011 - Waihohonu Hut
After the long tramp yesterday, we all woke a little later. Nigel and the other Nick were soon set to depart, and Karen and Lorie were returning to Wellington. Mark was staying to climb Ruapehu with Chad, Andrew, and myself. After the farewells were exchanged we drove to the big volcano.
Ruapehu is an impressive sight. It looms large, looking more like a small mountain range then a volcano. The summit is shrouded in cloud when we arrive at Whakapapa Village. Seeing this, combined with the general weariness from the Crossing yesterday, an executive decision is made not to climb it. Instead we decide to begin our last tramp a day early.
So we say good-bye to Mark, and the three of us set off from Whakapapa Village around 1:00. We'll be following a track that goes around Ruapehu. The tramp starts by walking between the huge valley separating Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu.
It's very open, and the vegetation is light and desert-like. The track is mostly flat, though it does undulate towards the end. Still, other then the heat, at this point the going was pretty easy. Our packs were painfully heavy, as we must carry most of our gear, needed or not, now that we lack a car to store unnecessary equipment. My feet felt quite dead when we reach the newly constructed Waihohonu Hut after about four and a half hours of tramping. This is a Great Walk hut, so you must pay extra for it. However, it is bigger and nicer then your average backcountry hut.

March 21, 2011 - Rangipo Hut
We get a lazy start this morning. The terrain we're covering isn't overly challenging, so we're not in any hurry. We set off for the next hut around 10:30.
Today's tramp will see us walking through the Rangipo Desert. Soon what light scrub and thin vegetation there was gives way to a rocky barren wasteland. I've never tramped in a desert before. Most of the area around the rocky slopes surrounding Ruapehu are clear as far as the eye can see. The views are a little obscured today by some low clouds that are rolling in beneath us, but the low lying flat green farmlands are still visible for a while. The day becomes overcast, but the weather isn't cold or rainy.
This track is well marked and easy to follow. It does turn out to be harder going then yesterday's tramp. The way undulates constantly, and our packs are still quite heavy. Around the halfway point, the sky begins to threaten rain.
We break briefly for lunch and push on. We're all feeling a bit beat from the last couple days. Soon we reach a valley that is a known lahar path. A lahar is a volcanic mudslide. Imagine a flash flood on crack, a mud flow composed of pyroclastic material from inside the volcano, rocky debris, and water. These can travel at speeds over 100 km per hour, and sweep aways everything in their path. Basically, when one comes, don't be there. Seeing the effects of previous lahars on the valley is very cool. Giant rock walls are smoothed away, and old debris fields are obvious to behold.
At last we cross a small rise, and spot our next home: Rangipo Hut. It's much smaller then last nights hut, but we'll have it to ourselves tonight. As soon as we arrive the clouds move in and it begins to rain. I'm tired, sore, and ready for a rest day. Because we started a day early, we have a day to kill. We'll take it here.

March 22, 2011 - Fire in the hole!
We stayed Rangipo today. I needed a rest day. We all did. Last night we had the hut to ourselves. Tonight we'll be sharing it with a few people who just showed up out of today's constant rain. I'd hoped for some clear views, as Chad said that this was a great spot for some, but alas it wasn't to be.
The only real remarkable thing about today was the heavy artillery fire. We're relatively close to a New Zealand army base. Occasionally the entire hut would rattle in a deafening boom, as if the army were shelling Ruapehu itself. If you stepped outside during a blast, you could feel the impact of the boom in your chest. All in all... pretty damn cool (if a bit loud).

March 23, 2011 - Mangaehuehu Hut
The persistent fog and overcast sky is still waiting for us in the morning. It's cold and a bit rainy out when we start walking. The DoC sign indicated that today could be a six hour walk. We hope to move much faster then that.
Again, the track is up and down the majority of the time. Luckily, our packs are finally feeling lighter, and a rest day has helped. We traverse a steep gorge, which I'm told is rather impressive to behold. Due to the heavy fog, I'll just have to imagine it. We're hiking in thick cloud until around the midway point.
At last the sun has returned, and we have some blue sky. We break for lunch just as the landscape changes. Rather abruptly the desert ends, and a forest and light bush begin. We push on.
We've only been tramping in the light forest for a little bit when suddenly we're at the next hut. We got here very fast, way under the suggested time. This hut has some people already, but we decide to stay anyways. With the clear sky, we have some great views of the other side of Ruapehu. Tomorrow will be a long day, as we must leave early to ensure we reach the small town of Ohakune in time to catch our bus.

March 24, 2011 - Thames
Today was a fun one. It started very early. We had set the alarm for 6:30, and the electronic beeps went off with cold indifference to our pleasant slumber. We had to get moving quickly. Our bus in Ohakune was departing at 12:50. We needed to walk out to the road (which was posted as a three hour walk), and attempt to hitch into town. If rides weren't forthcoming we needed to give ourselves enough time to walk the 12 and a half km into Ohakune.
Once up we quickly had breakfast and packed. We bid adieu to the others in the hut and set off in record time (for us). The way out starts with some light forest and thin scrubby bush. A good deal of the initial way is boardwalked. It was cold last night, and as we tramp in the golden morning sunlight I can see a thin layer of white frost coating our wooden road.
After crossing a few bridged rivers the final assault on the track is made by zig-jagging down a thick green forest. Before too long we've reached the road. We pushed ourselves for speed and it took less then two hours. Now to get to Ohakune.
We begin walking down the mountain road. The sky is a clear and beautiful blue and the warm sun is shinning. The only thing we lack at first are potential rides. It's still well before noon, and traffic is sparse and the few vehicles that pass us are going the wrong way. We have a bus to catch, so we press on. It's 12 km down the road, but we can walk it fast enough to reach town in time. Luckily we don't have to.
After walking seven or eight km down the mountain, a hunter in a pickup stops for us. This excellent gentleman takes us all the way to the bus station. We kill time by finding some lunch. The bus arrives on schedule and we board. It's about five hours to the small town of Pokeno. Once there we plan to hitch to Thames.
The bus ride is fairly uneventful, and I spend most of it enjoying the views of the countryside. It's a veritable sea of green, as the gently rolling fields and hills stretch out towards some low mountains on the horizon. The picturesque landscape is like driving through Hobbiton from the Lord of the Rings. Eventually, at around 6:00 we're dropped off in Pokeno.
We hike to the busy road we must hitch along to reach Thames. Time is an issue, as it gets dark much earlier so far north and getting rides after the sun sets is all but impossibe. We don't have a long time to spend waiting. But wait we do, luckily not for too terribly long. Andrew and I had had no luck attempting to hitch together (although the fact that some drivers actually acknowledged my existence as they blew past us assured for me that I hadn't become invisible).
Chad, who was trying his luck alone up the road, had just given up and was about to walk back to Andrew and myself, when not one, but two cars pull over for him- proving once and for all that the solution to Life's problems is to give up. The cars were driven by some Indian guys, some of whom were students in Auckland headed home for the weekend. They can give us a ride part of the way. We eagerly agree.
Once our packs are loaded up we're quickly off, Andrew and I in a car with two, and Chad in a vehicle with four. And when I say quickly, I'm not kidding around. These gentlemen were clearly in a hurry (or just really hated slow).
Despite the insane speeds we drove at, when we're dropped off at the fork in the road that goes to Thames the sky has become a darkening grey sheet, well on its way to night.
For a few minutes I attempt to hitch in the growing twilight, but it no avail. Soon it's becoming to dark to be standing on the side of a busy road, so I walk across the highway to a small store and cafe to meet Andrew and Chad. The couple who own both had let Chad charge is phone enough to call his friend Geoff in Thames, who said he'd come pick us up. The store owners offer us a beer and muffin, and even give us a lift a short way down the road to a place Geoff can meet us. Good people.
We wait for a brief while for Chad's friend. Chad met Geoff last year on a tramp in the South Island. Geoff's in his fifties and runs a holiday park. Soon a car pulls over and I get to meet him myself.
Thames is a town on the northern coast of New Zealand. It lies on a large bay, which stretches all the way to Auckland. Thames is at the start of a large peninsula known as the Coromandel. It's too dark to see any of it tonight, so we'll barrow Geoff's car tomorrow for a scenic tour.
When we reach Dickson Holiday Park, Geoff sets us up in a small cabin and fixes us a late dinner. Like everyone Chad knows in the country, Geoff is awesome and very interesting to talk to. I'm glad to have met him. We'll spend a couple days here with him, and then head over to Auckland.

March 25-26, 2011 - The Coromandel
We kicked around the Coromandel and Thames for the last two days. The weather has been rather poor, consisting almost entirely of of grey overcast skies and occasional rain. We took a short day trip up the Coromandel Peninsula. There were a few highlights to the day.
The first was getting to see a Karri tree. This is the biggest tree I've ever seen. In circumference, the square tree reminded me of the towering Sequoias of the Western United States. However, they don't reach Redwood heights. Still, these trees can grow up to around 90 meters tall. Chad says the one I saw was small compared to some he's seen!
Our side trip down the rocky road to see this tree resulted in us suffering a flat tire. Considering how much driving we've done in New Zealand, I suppose we were overdue. We quickly get the spare on, and are moving again just as it begins to rain.
We then drove to a place known as Cathedral Cove. It's on the green coast. A short walk takes you down to sea level. The high walls of the surrounding cliffs and bluffs are spectacular. Just off the coast there lie a plethora of tiny islands being assaulted by white waves and surf.
Cathedral Cove is a large cove that's been cut by eons of rain, wind, and waves. Underneath, the stone land bridge comes to a point, the shape of its ceiling resembling that of a vaulted cathedral. It was magnificent to see.
Finally, we head over to Hot Water Beach. Keeping with the theme of aptly named landmarks, this beach is known for its hot water. Just walk along the shore and take your shovel to dig a shallow pit. Warm freshwater bubbles up and bingo! You've got yourself your own personal hot pool. Personal, not private. There were crowds of people, everyone bunched together in the areas that offered up the best heat for your water. Pretty interesting place. We chill there until sunset, and then head back to Thames.

March 27-29, 2011 - Auckland
We caught the morning bus to Auckland a couple days ago. We arrived in the big city a bit after noon. Nigel and his wife Tamara picked us up at the bus station and took us back to their awesome house, just outside the city proper.
Nigel took us for a brief driving tour when we arrived. Nearly any small hill you see in the surrounding lands near the city was at one time a small volcano. There are 50 volcanoes in Auckland. We could also see Auckland's famous One Tree Hill (ironically the tree has been cut down... don't tell Bono).
Yesterday we took a bus down town for a brief look around. It's a cool city on the bay. Auckland is New Zealand's largest city. While it was bigger and noisier then Wellington, it wasn't as remarkable in my opinion. We grab some lunch and walk around for a couple hours, before heading back to Nigel and Tamara's.
Today is our last day in New Zealand. Tomorrow morning, way early in the a.m., Chad and I will head to the airport and begin the long journey home. Andrew's flight arrangements are different, and he'll fly to Christchurch today in a couple hours. He flies home from there, and also leaves tomorrow. I can't believe that it's nearly over. I'm sure it'll hit me tomorrow with the reality of a 20 hour return trip.

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Photos

photo 20
Mt. Ngauruhoe (Mt. Doom)