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Published: April 18th 2009
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So first I got the photos sorted but couldn't add the text. Next time I was online I could add the text but the photos had dissapeared!!! Don't ya just love internet cafes :-) So, watch this space for photos - hopefully it'll be third time lucky!!!
So, here I am in hot and dusty Delhi, reflecting upon my time in NZ. I had hoped to write a few words about the place before I left it’s cool, clean, green shores but time ran out. So now I’m bashing away on a sticky keyboard with temperamental keys and a slow connection. Still, I want to add some words to these pics about the unique land that is NZ. As all the clichés say, NZ truly is a land of contrasts - mountains, beaches, glaciers, vast lakes - a paradise for geographers and geologists. Having lived and worked in Wellington and managed a number of trips on North Island during this time, we decided to head off to south island on a van mission when work came to an end.
Our trip began in the north where I headed for the sanctuary of the Anahata yoga centre - a
small ashram on top of a hill near Takaka in Golden Bay. My long weekend there was inspiring and left me wanting to spend more time at this amazing centre. Whilst I was aum-ing on the hill, Bob had walked the Heaphy track - a four day tramp down the North West coast, I picked him up at the other end - blistered and bitten by sand flies but having thoroughly enjoyed his time on one of NZs Great Walk tracks.
From here we headed south along the west coast taking in the unusual rock formations of Punakaiki or pancake rocks. We took a quick side trip up to Arthur’s pass to do some walking then headed back down to the coast to the famous Franz Joseph and Fox glaciers. The west coast is also known as the wet coast - I think something in the region of 10 metres of rain falls annually (this feeds the ever changing glaciers). Although we had a few wet soggy days the sun shone when we visited the Fox glacier for a one day walk. The glacier walking was a memorable experience - we tramped up through the rainforest at the side
of the glacier, stopped at the edge to strap on crampons, grabbed a stick and headed off onto the ice The guides showed us tunnels and waterfalls inside the glacier and cut ice steps to enable us to navigate across it’s surface. The highlight of the day was the discovery of a tunnel that had developed enough for us to walk through - I went inside the glacier - and the ice was blue!!! Something to do with the compression of the ice and the refraction of the water - it was out of this world.
Next stop was Wanaka and the Mount Aspiring National Park where we found a great free camping spot and dried out after a couple of wet west coast days. Then we headed to Queenstown, NZs tinsel town packed with tourists and adrenaline activities galore to choose from. We took the sedate gondola cable car up to the top of the hill in the middle of town - known as Bob’s peak! Bob’s peak is equipped with a luge track which we delighted in hooning down as fast as we could!
Beautiful Lake Te Anau was a lovely resting point on the way
to The Milford Sound. Then we drove all the way to the sound itself where we headed out on the water to see the iconic Mitre peak (featured in Lord of the Rings). We made our way back slowly along the Milford Road through Fiordland national park staying at DOC (Department of Conservation) camp grounds along the way. The DOC is a fantastic organization who maintains the tramping tracks/ huts and nature spots around the country but the best thing is their campgrounds. Very basic sites with just a tap and a loo but only $6 a night in the honesty box and all in really stunning locations - we stayed alongside rivers, lakes, overlooking beaches and mountains - you always get a room with a view!
Down in Bluff (nearly as far south as you can go on South Island although Slope Point is officially the farthest south) we bumped into the have your say bus and made this video postcard of our south island adventure- Watch out Richard and Judy!!!
From here we continued along the Southern Scenic route taking in wild windswept beaches of the Catlins complete with resident seals and sea lions, some gorgeous waterfalls and ancient forests including a grand old totara tree believed to be over 1000 years old. Then we headed north, first to Dunedin the University city with a great atmosphere and easy access to the Otago Peninsula. The peninsula is home to a Royal Albatross Colony, we drove out there and stood in the car park for a couple of hours (v expensive to go in!) however we were rewarded with some very close encounters as these majestic birds (with 3 metre wingspans) swooped over our heads and down to the sea beneath us where we stood on the cliff edge - a breathtaking sight.
A side trip back to the mountains of Mount Cook National park saw us tramping up to the Mueller Hut. The track is only 5.2kms in length but with an ascent of 1000kms I was totally mullered by the time I reached the top. It was worth it for the views over Mount Cook and the surrounding mountain ranges plus the sunrise was awesome. However after scrambling back down the steep slippery track we both found ourselves hobbling a little over the next few days!
In Christchurch we took it easy,
walked slowly (due to our achy legs) and enjoyed the sun after many cold nights in the south and the mountains. We took the trip of a lifetime when we went up up and away in a hot air balloon! A fantastic 30th birthday present from my lovely Wivenhoe mates that I have been looking forward to for nearly two years - it was well worth the wait! The trip began at 5am as we jumped into the minibus and headed off out of the city. We arrived at a cricket ground near the village of Cust where we all helped to set up the balloon. This involved dragging the heavy basket off the trailer, stretching out the enormous balloon on the grass then holding it open whilst it was inflated first with cold and then hot air. We all climbed into the basket and were steeling ourselves for the off when the cry came “abort, abort!” the balloon was deflating on us! We leapt out of the basket as the pilot gave his assistant a dressing down for his error in not keeping the balloon properly inflated, and then we helped to re-inflate the balloon. The second time we
climbed into the basket I was feeling even more nervous, but the take off was smooth and gentle and we sailed up over the trees and high into the air. The view across the plains and over to the mountain range was made all the more beautiful by the changing colours of the rising sun. The flight lasted nearly an hour and we landed in a field some miles away from our take off spot. Once we landed we had to wait for the man on the ground to contact the owners of the field we were in to obtain permission to disembark. Unfortunately the owners of the land were away and so the bus couldn’t gain access, this meant that we got to take off again and sailed over to the next field where the pilot knew the owner! None of us passengers minded - we got a bonus flight!! Once successfully landed we helped to pack away the balloon - like getting a supersized sleeping bag into its cover, then we were rewarded with a glass of champagne.
From Christchurch we made a quick dash back to Golden Bay and spent a few more peaceful days at
Anahata before catching the ferry back to Wellington. A flurry of selling, sorting and farewelling and before we knew it we were making our last trip across the wondrous landscape of NZ. We chose to take the train from Wellington to Auckland in order to get one last look at the mountains, rivers and landscape of this land of beauty. A lovely way to end our journey!
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Bob and Sarah
Bob Mehew and Sarah McCaskey
(Incredible India
So first I got the photos sorted but couldn't add the text. Next time I was online I could addd the text but the photos had dissapeared!!! Don't ya just love internet cafes :-) So, watch this space for photos - hopefully it'll be third time lucky!!!