NORTHLAND - As North as it gets: Russell - Cape Reinga


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Oceania » New Zealand » North Island » Northland » Cape Reinga
December 14th 2007
Published: December 15th 2007
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Russell to Cape Reinga


DATE VISITED; 12,13,14 ISH OF DECEMBER 07 I forgot to mention in the Russell entry that in addition to it taking about 3 hours to get there from Auckland, it took the same amount of time for e to recover from my traffic offence! Yes thats right - 3 days in and I get pulled up by the cops already! Looking back I can smile but at the time I was livid. Hovering through an amber a bit flustered - trying to escape the city for the North cost me 70 quid! He was pleasant enough and was actually interested in my job and what we were doing here - but it didn't distract me from the blow of the fine. I'll treat ambers as 'early reds' than 'late green's' from now on! We tried to escape the rain heading to Russell (which was still there in part) so decided to forgo our cruise plans and head further north still ( to the very top of the North Island)...

The weather eventually brightened on our travels. We checked in at a Backpackers on Henderson's Bay - about half way between Russell and the Cape on the east shore. We stayed
Me running on 90 mile beach!Me running on 90 mile beach!Me running on 90 mile beach!

We couldnt see the end of the beach in sight - this was HUGE!
here

http://www.backpacker-tour.com/northwind_lodge_seacliffs_northland/northwindlodge.htm

The place was in a windy and remote location only 5 mins stroll from the beach. Fantastic. The pacific ocean we could see from our sunny large bedroom - the host apparantly got married here! The hostel was suitably located so we could see the Cape (a further 3 hour drive) and some other nearby attractions.

The cape was worth seeing - it was very uncommercialised unlike Lands End. The lighthouse was dinky but located in a nice spot. We checked out a local footpath and admired the views over the ocean - the Tasman and Pacific collide here. We saw some white horse breaks out to see and wondered if this was the point - or if it was just a reef or something beneath...

Whilst we stayed at the backpackers we checked out the mighty sand dunes on the west shore (near 90 mile beach - although the beach is actually only about 40 miles). These gigantic dunes can only be accessed at low tide - we took a gamble and turned up. As with many roads around here the road takes you right on the sand itself where you see the usual quick sand or tidal warnings. We tip-toed through a shallow estuary and began the climb up the sand dunes. I tried to use previously laden foot inprints to reduce the sap of energy - the weather was boiling and the sun was burning (reflecting off the sand). The view from the top was amazing - you felt you were on a desert. Coming down these were easier than climbing up but a bit daunting... We attempted to cross the stream in the same spot but Ben lead us slightly up stream where we ended up stepping on some quick sand. This wasnt pleasant at all! I felt this could have easily have become a reconstruction scene from a Michael Burke 999' episode!
We got back safe! 😊

Northland - summary!

I'm glad we checked out this area as it's been an experience driving along some very empty roads - many 'unsealed' amidst beautiful scenery - the area is quite sub tropical with lush countryside, farmland and rolling hills covered in a mix of pine and palm trees, grassy slopes and fields with cattle. The bird song is very noticeable here too..I have tried my best to record
Sal at the CapeSal at the CapeSal at the Cape

A windswept shot - whats going on with my hair!
this. We noticed a subtle warming in temperature driving north - a bit more humid too. There were the sheep and cows I expected but not the numbers - more of a scattering..Maybe elsewhere in New Zealand we will see all these sheep they talk about!

The expansiveness of this region puts the size of the Peak District in perspective - between the towns or tiny coastal villages you don't see anything - no hamlets, few farms and just the odd isolated house - I suppose the extremeties of Northern Scotland for that remote feeling is as close a comparison. This region is very undeveloped, rural and wild with thunderous coastal tides/waves to match - even too rough for the hardy surfers. The coastline, similar to Cornwall but bigger with beaches you only dream of and the windy deserted roads meandering to the shoreline itself makes this area a worthy place to check out..




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The crashing waves at Henderson's bayThe crashing waves at Henderson's bay
The crashing waves at Henderson's bay

Who's that explorer stood in the way?
A coastal path near the lighthouseA coastal path near the lighthouse
A coastal path near the lighthouse

No dog poo! No litter! No people!
Signpost to the equatorSignpost to the equator
Signpost to the equator

and London - just a few miles away...


17th December 2007

You two are so lucky having the time of your lives in such a beautiful location. Nearly pissedb myself laughing at the traffic offence thats one you wont forget!!!

Tot: 0.039s; Tpl: 0.013s; cc: 10; qc: 21; dbt: 0.0186s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1; ; mem: 1mb