Back in time

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Napier
On February 3, 1931 at 10:43 am, the world shifted for the citizens of a sleepy little town on the hills of eastern New Zealand. An earthquake measuring 7.9 leveled the town and the broken gas lines ignited fires that roared across the rubble. More than 250 people were killed, crushed under the rubble or burned to death in the fire. The earth rose up 3 meters and what was once a harbor became in an instant a fertile plain.
Once the shock was over the town with the help of the NZ government started to rebuild. Since it was at the start of a global depression, architects from all over descended on the town and rebuild using the latest technology and in the predominate style of art deco.
Until the mid 80’s, when a building was built in the downtown area, any style at all was permitted. Then, about 1984, a cruise ship docked at the wharf, not common in those days, and the Common Council called a meeting of all the guides to find out what the tourists enjoyed. These were mainly Americans and the word came to the council that they were blown away by the number and condition of the art deco buildings. It wasn’t long before the council, realizing they had a treasure and a tourist attraction, restricted building in the town center to maintain the art deco theme. One or two monstrosities from the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s remains but the wonderful facades, the leaded glass windows, the beautiful colorful color combinations combined with the hanging baskets and pots of flowers and art deco trash containers and brick streets makes Napier an enchanting place to visit.
My tour guide showed pictures of before and after the earthquake. It is unimaginable that all the dramatic changes in the topography took place in about 2 minutes.
Not only that but it has the oldest winery in New Zealand, Mission Winery. This is in the Hawks Bay region and while Marlborough concentrates on whites, Hawks Bay makes wonderful reds. I took a tour through a wine museum and winery where the harvest has just begun. Everyone was gearing up for the vintage and hoping the weather would stay dry. It was interesting to see the apparatus that the old wine makers used. This winery, Church Road, uses oak cuve and barrels to age the wine unlike wineries today. That produces the wonderful oaky aroma that I like in my wine. I bought a bottle of Cabernet - Merlot and have been enjoying it at dinner every night. Unfortunately, this is a small operation and it’s output is limited to New Zealand.
I would like to come back to explore Napier. In February each year they have a food and wind festival culminating in Art Deco weekend where folks from all over dress in period costume and drive around in classic cars.
At the pier there were about of dozen of these vintage automobiles in mint condition, proudly displayed by their owners in period dress while a small band in striped pants, white jackets and boaters played 20’s and 30’s music and the vocalist sang through a megaphone. It was a wonderful send off ending a great day.

My day in Tauranga was a bit disappointing. I was supposed to swin with the dolphins but the dolphins were not in the mood. The day was overcast and chilly and the sea was choppy. The boat was catamaran that slept 14. Simon the Captain lost his mast and sails overboard while sailing from New Caledonia to New Zealand last November. He was only able to book three passengers and if his computer had not crashed last Friday, I’m sure he would have cancelled. Instead, he honored his commitment and motored us around for six hours looking for marine life. We did see a small pod of dolphin but they took one look at us and decided the audience wasn’t big enough to put on a show. Simon must have lost a fortune on the tour but he was charming and informative and gave us what he could provide. He pointed out the Mary Shaw, billed as the fasted sailing yacht afloat. I can’t verify that but she raised sail near shore as we were out in the Bay and zipped but us in no time at all. She is a really beautiful boat!
So, no swimming with the dolphins but as far as I’m concerned, any day on the water is a good day.

Unless something exceptional happens, this will be my last blog. I intend to spend the next 4 days lolling about the ship and doing absolutely nothing except relax and read and eat and sleep.

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