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Published: February 27th 2008
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When American author, Thomas Wolfe, wrote his book,
You Can’t Go Home Again, I doubt that he meant a cruise excursion in Moorea. Alan and I may not be “going home again,” but, today, we’re repeating one of our favorite experiences, the
Lagoon Discovery with Snorkeling excursion. Will it be as special this time?
Storm clouds hang outside Moorea’s reef as we take the tender for an 8:00 am rendezvous with our tour boat. Because of the threatening weather, we leave our cameras behind, which we later regret.
On the excursion boat, two guides introduce themselves. I’ll call them handsome guide and young handsome guide. While the boat motors out of Cook’s Bay and into the lagoon, handsome guide advises our group on proper behavior when swimming with stingrays.
Handsome guide speaks with a French accent. When he smiles, his white teeth flash against tanned, Polynesian skin. I’d be content to ride in the lagoon all day, watching his smile and listening to him talk.
Once the boat stops, we exit into clear, waist-high water. Young handsome guide holds fish in his closed fist. Soon, about a dozen stingrays glide in from every direction.
Handsome guide
Fun on the boat
Thanks to Valerie for the photo says, “Watch how they move. They are peaceful and slow. Match your movements to theirs and they will accept you.”
Just like our last Moorea experience, the rays float around us. We have to be careful not to step on them. Some bump into my chest looking for food. It’s impossible not to smile. I giggle when one bumps against my legs.
Young handsome guide displays a genuine respect for the rays. Grabbing one by the wings, he kisses its head.
He points to the largest one, who is the most aggressive in her search for food.
“That’s Suzie,” he says. “She’s the leader.” He holds her while I pet her slick, smooth back. Then, he points to her mouth and the two openings on the top of her head. First, he feeds a fish into her mouth. Next, he demonstrates how Suzie can also suck the fish into her mouth from one of the two openings on top of her head.
Reef sharks circle around the edges of our shallow sandbar. As we step back into the boat, the guides feed them too.
The boat motors on and turns between two islets, or
Alan bonding with the stingrays
Thanks to Valerie for the photo motus, for the snorkeling part of this adventure. About halfway towards the reef line, handsome guide anchors the boat. We have two choices — wade to the motu and walk towards the reef-line, re-enter the water and drift back towards the boat or snorkel out from the boat and drift back.
Alan and I choose the second option. The current isn’t hard to fight and we’re rewarded with all types of colorful fish swimming in and out of a large coral garden. Blue fish, yellow ones, fish with long narrow snouts, more than we’ve ever seen in our limited snorkeling experience.
The drift back towards the boat is faster than we expect and takes careful maneuvering to avoid being pushed into the coral. All the while, the fish dart around us.
Back onboard, handsome guide prepares a snack of fresh fruit. I dredge banana chunks, pineapple bits and orange pieces in fresh coconut then pop them into my mouth. The taste is sweet and exotic. I feel very Polynesian.
Meanwhile, Alan spots a stingray and is back in the water along with young handsome guide. Are these different ones or is the boat some sort of
pied piper of stingrays? Alan stays in the water admiring these sea scavengers that are the opossums and vultures of the ocean world. Somehow, it’s hard to think of the gentle, floating creatures eating the sea’s “road kill.”
By now, everyone has finished the tropical snack. They look at Alan with impatient stares. “Haven’t you had enough? We’re ready to go back, now,” they seem to say with accusing eyes. He reluctantly says goodbye to the stingrays and enters the boat.
The dark clouds release a torrent of water as we head towards Cooks Bay. Back onshore, passengers huddle under an awning while they wait for the tender back to the Mariner.
Alan stands in the pouring rain and smiles. Yes, Thomas Wolfe, you can go home again.
To read more about arranging an excursion to swim with stingrays, visit
My Itchy Travel Feet .
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