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Published: December 27th 2023
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Wishing everyone a very Merry Christmas 2023!!
The Marquesas Islands…. A trip we have looked at for a couple of years and finally decided to do it! It was the year of the every 4 year Matava’a O Te Femua Enata or The Marquesas Islands Arts Festival. Started in 1986 to promote cultural exchanges between the 6 Marquesas islands. And it was fascinating! We attended 2 of the 4 days of it which included multiple dance troupes, a communal lunch and several evening shows.
The 12 day cruise on the Aranui is a combination freighter/passenger boat. The front third of the boat is loaded with the cargo including multiple shipping containers, forklifts, pickup truck and 2 buses to shuttle us to the festival sites. At each island stop we watched the shipping containers off loaded onto either the dock or a floating barge. Then we would have the day to explore the island. Total population of all 6 inhabited islands is @ 10,000 people.
Our first stop was at Fakarava, which is the 2
nd largest atoll in French Polynesia. Time to roam the very small village of Rotoava and snorkel. The water was the
beautiful lagoon blue, although not a lot of fish. But we were not in the water for 5 minutes when the large Nurse shark swam by, which definitely got our attention! It was large!
The next day, was a full day at sea, arriving in Nuka Hiva early morning of Dec 17
th. Arriving on the island, we hear the drums pounding and so many of the people in traditional dress, lots of grass skirts for the women and the men dressed in grass or bark thongs. Many of the men had large necklaces made out of bone and wood, carrying a U’’u stick reminiscent of their earlier warrior days. The islands are also known for their tatous, and they were impressive. We were told, the tatoos depicted family stories or life events. Many of the men were completely covered with them. The day included a communal lunch and dances in the large grassy area. It was hot! That evening, a more formal setting with bleacher seating. The professional synchronized dancing, beautiful music and song was mesmerizing.
The next day we visit Hatiheu, a village in the north of Nuka Hiva, We walk up to
the site of the next dance festivities and the largest banyan tree on the island. More spectacular dances and dresses in a gorgeous setting of the forest. That evening more dances at the same venue as the night before, with lots of stories that we did not quite understand. But still fascinating.
Sailing to Ua Pou, 3
rd largest of the islands, known for their basaltic peaks, and black stone beach, and the flower stones, (bespeckled rocks). We take a 4x4 across the island. This section was surprisingly dry. We visited the site of the first festival and where several Tikis remain. Traditional lunch on the island included delicious tuna in coconut.
We sail thru the night leaving the northern island group, to Hiva Oa where Paul Gaugin lived and died. The morning is spent hiking up to his grave site and visiting a very nice Gaugin museum.
We sail to Tahuata, the smallest island of the Marquesas with 653 people. A beautiful tropical island, where some of the oldest Tikis remain in a forested setting. And a surprisingly large church with a beautiful stain glass window.
On Friday
Dec 22
nd we travel to Fatu Hiva where the more courageous endure an 18k hike in the continued hot climate. It was very hot!! We debated, but in the end, chose to join the 4x4s driving the identical route, enjoying the same beautiful views. And a delightful picnic lunch at the top, @ 2000ft. Plus, the extra time allowed us to enjoy the demonstration of the tapa cloth made from mulberry, breadfruit or banyan barks, and then block print designs stamped on them.
Our last island is Ua Huka, pop 674, with 1500+ wild horses on the island. A visit to the community center with some beautiful handicrafts and another traditional lunch. We say goodbye to the Marquesas, and begin our day at sea on our return. Our last stop is Rangiroa, the largest atoll in French Polynesia and a stop at the Blue Lagoon with the most amaizng shades of blue. On our way we come across a squadron of manta rays, playing alongside our small speedboat. I had no idea they were so large, about 5 feet across. Then it was a delicious grilled fish lunch on a small island and some snorkeling. Not a
lot of fish, but lots of cute little black tip sharks, that did not bother us. It was a wonderful way to finish the trip!
Overall, it was an amazing cultural experience. The boat was great, food delicious, and staff were excellent. The days were busy and each night we were lulled to sleep by the gentle rocking of the ship. We are now back in Papeete, leaving tomorrow for the Cook Islands.
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Vicki
non-member comment
Beautiful
The photos are amazing! I’m sitting with Elizabeth who loves tattoos and we could not believe the spectacular art work. We were thinking the work on the buns must have hurt some. Take care and enjoy. Xoxoxox