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Published: December 22nd 2007
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Wayalalia
The mountain we climbed (Note - Originally written 11th December but unable to publish until now due to internet difficulties)
Bula, Bula and Thrice Bula. A warm greeting from the South Seas
When we arrived at our previous Island (Manta Ray) we were somewhat surprised to see all the other guests checking out, storm shutters being put up and to have the receptionist ask us three times " are you sure you want to stay here?' More of that later................
Anyway, since our last blog we have been travelling up the Yasawa islands. Our first port of call was Wayalailai Eco Haven, about 2 hours from the mainland by catamaran. The resort is essentially an extension of a Fijian village so we got to know the locals well. They are unbelievably genteel. Very quietly spoken and courteous. It's a bit incongrous to equate them with the Missionary eating cannibals of sea faring folk lore. However, perhaps the best way to convince someone to take an"extra hot bath with added vegetables" was to softly cajole them into it.
2 major death defying experiences whilst on this island; first off we went swimming with the reef sharks and were able to touch and
Fine Young(ish) Cannibals
Mr Berry, Daren & "Big" Jerry feed them. I think Tina enjoyed this, although the water around her did turn a funny shade of brown every time one of the sharks became overly interested in her. For the record, sharks feel like warm sand paper, stretched over jelly.
Secondly, we took a (mis)guided tour to the top of the mountain (See photo). This was over slimy boulders and hidden creeks through rain washed jungle. Finally, just before the summit, we had to cross a precipice with sheer drops of 250 metres either side. The views were amazing and Tina says she has now cured her fear of heights. I think i left part of my lungs somehere on the ascent. Coming down, if anything was worse. How we managed to get out without severe injury or even death I'll never know. Perhaps it was because our guide had offered up a prayer to the mountain god before we set out.
8 days later we made a quick 15 minute hop to Bayside resort on Waya Island. This was to be our 'castaway" experience. Just 2 Bures (Thatched huts) shared toilet and shower, dining area, 2 hammocks and 400 yards of coral white sand bookended
Bayside
Our private beach by obsidian black volcanic rocks.
Needless to say there was no electricity, no cold drinks (No BEER!) and no creature comforts. We had 2 locals. Oni and Timothy to prepare our food. Tim would go spear fishing and bring back dinner to go with the fresh papaya, bananas and coconuts from the forest and all water was from a well. Not to everyone's taste as it was all very basic but from the point of view of getting away from it all, it was spot on. We did have some unwanted guests in our bure (see photo) but after a while you get used to it.
Went and watched the local inter island rugby 7's which was a great experience. Some players didn't have boots so had to play in socks and there were only 3 kits between 9 teams so it all became a bit confusing as to who was playing whom. Unfortunately they were unable to finish all the games before sunset so all 9 teams had to share first prize of F$100 and 40 bibles!
2 bits of kit came in very useful at Bayside; the wind up torch (After dark only parrafin lamps
to light everything) and our Solio Solar charger which came in invaluable for charging MP3 players.
After 8 days we certainly felt we'd had enough but it was an experience.
Then we arrived at Manta Ray. Unbeknown to us, Cyclone Daman (Category 4, same as Hurricane Katrina) was in the area. hence everyone heading for the mainland. We decided to stick it out and fortunately after a'dark and stormy night' it blew itself away from our Island. Apparently if it had hit, all the bures would have been destroyed.
After the privations of Bayside we decided to treat ourselves to bit of luxury and upgraded to a de luxe jungle Bure. 24 hour electric, ceiling fan and to Tina's eternal joy, hot water !
Hot water is a bit of a spurious luxury as the sea water is bath temperature and most of the time it's a question of trying to cool down. The snorkelling and diving are wonderful here (have been good on all islands so far) and we have also been on some picturesque walks around this deserted island. You can find your very own stretch of empty beach and just relax.
we
Where's Daren
View from Manta Ray Bure have also enjoyed the buffet food here as on the other resorts it had pretty much been eat what you're given. I also enjoy having cold beer available!
Finally 'Otto & Fanny's' was our last resort on one of the Islands right at the top of the Yasawa chain. Tina picked this island as they do great afternoon teas with chocolate and banana cake. Now, you can't argue with that.
It was a very quiet place, number of guests varying between 4 and 9. It had a much more spacious feel but very friendly as Fanny & Ottos son and family were over from Australia and their other son was the chef - we were made to feel extremely welcome by everyone and part of us was very sad to go. The beaches here were long, although the snorkelling was not the best.
Opposite the island is Blue Lagoon, where the film was made - it was beautiful. We also visited some underwater caves (picture attached) and this was a very interesting experience and health and safety again was an issue. Firstly daren was hit whilst underwater by a guide jumping from one of the cave ledges
Where's Tina # 2
Far from the madding crowd and then once inside the cave complex we were left to swim around in the pitch black!
Today we will be flying south to Kadavu island for Xmas and new Year so look forward to updating you all then.
Thanks for all youer messages. We do enjoy reading them all but internet availability and access means it hard to reply to all but we will try.
Take care all, till next time
D&T
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Jane McGhee
non-member comment
Blimey, the size of that spider!
Looks like your having a fantastic time, you lucky devils. However, if I had a seen a spider that big I'd be on the next plane back home! Happy travels & New Year. Love Jane