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Published: June 28th 2015
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After almost a week of R&R at Fitzroy Crossing we thought we were ready to tackle the Gibb again. There are many wonderful things to see in the Kimberley but the corrugations, dust and smoke from the burning off do detract from the experience somewhat.
Our first stop was Tunnel Creek National Park and this must be a highlight of the GRR region - this area has history, walking, wonderful scenery and crocs all rolled in to the one package! You can read about the history by googling Jandamarra; it's a fascinating story.
One small bonus of the "dry" wet season was that the water level in Tunnel Creek was quite low (generally below knee level if you waded in the shallows). We entered the tunnel and turned on our headlights. Ahead we could see indications of other people - little dancing lights. As we progressed down the tunnel it got darker until finally we reached halfway (a part of the tunnel where the roof had collapsed) and we could see again. Then we were off again looking towards the spec of light at the end of the tunnel. After about half an hour, we had completed the tunnel
(about 750 metres) and came out at a delightful creek with overhanging gum trees. We saw three smallish crocodiles while wading through the tunnel....someone said there were four but they are generally shy and won't bother you.
Outside the tunnel we saw a water monitor and were able to locate the aboriginal rock art. Then, after a short break, it was time to retrace our steps.
After the cool of Tunnel Creek, we drove along the hot and dusty road to Windjana Gorge National Park. There was a resident ranger and there are good facilities for camping (including showers). The gorge itself has been formed by the Lennard River and the highlight are the crocodiles that are spread throughout the park. You can see them in the river and sunning themselves in the shallows or on the banks. These crocs are much larger than the ones at Tunnel Creek - you must make sure that you don't get between a croc and the river. We walked up the gorge and were lucky to see a Great Bower Bird dancing at his bower.
The Kimberley Wild bus was also at Windjana and we met the lovely Sarah again
Halfway point
The collapse of the roof lets light in to see in both directions - the folks on that bus tour were indeed lucky to have her as their hostess. If you don't have (or don't want to use your own transport in the Kimberley) we would recommend Kimberley Wild Tours (based in Broome), a local business with great people. They have a range of tours to suit everyone.
That evening we thought we would have an early night. However, it was quite hot and very humid which made sleeping difficult. Nearby campers had planned to have a large campfire but at around 7.30pm it started to rain and a few heavier drops fell which sent the campers back to their vans or tents. The rain didn't seem to make it any easier to sleep but at least it quietened the neighbours!
The next morning we visited the ruins of Lillimooloora Station, an outpost that was to become a police station and feature prominently in the Jandamarra story.
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