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Published: July 10th 2012
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Gibb River Road
...on the road again Gibb River Road – ‘4’
10
th June 2012
Leaving our amazing Durack River campsite we were about 80 Klm only from our next destination, Home Valley Station, which we were looking forward to with great anticipation. The Gibb continued as usual, corrugated and dusty but all in all, the trip has been ok and not taxing at all on ourselves or vehicle and the Trakkie. The savannah plains were now starting to give way to hills again and every so often we came over the top of a rise or a jump-up we could now glimpse the majestic Cockburn Ranges. On one steepish incline I thought I felt a lack of power from the Troll in pulling us over the ridge, but before I had time to think about it we were over and there was that beautiful range again, fantastic. It was not long however before I started to notice a loss of power under load, like a fuel problem, and after one steep climb at Rollie’s jump-up, we scrambled to the top and I thought I had better check the fuel filter as perhaps we had water in the trap and it needed bleeding. After unscrewing the
Gibb River Road
..our first view of the Cockburn Range valve at the bottom of the trap and pumping furiously, I really did not notice anything come out, diesel included, strange (but I am no diesel mechanic that is for sure!).
Back in the vehicle and we are on the way again and the power loss seems to have gone, maybe I did remove some contaminant but not noticed it. In front of us was Gregorys Jump-up and that would test it to see if the issue was cleared. Gregorys Jump-up is a steep incline that has now been sealed. Historically it has presented some big challenges to intrepid travellers of the past especially after the wet season. Half way up I said to Trish, ‘I am not sure we will make it up here’ but we did. Again I stopped and released the valve and pumped fuel, and again I cannot say I saw anything cleared or flow out from the bottom of the filter, this strange. Now my understanding is that fuel at least should be able to be pumped through if nothing else, that is in effect what it is for, to bleed air (and water) from the system after changing a filter (I have a
spare with me and may be using it sooner rather than later). Now the interesting part is that when I tried the vehicle again after what appeared to be a futile exercise, it ran like the wind, and as we were now only a few Klm’s from Home Valley Station, (and it was down hill), we powered on.
On the way down though, we had to stop at the Cockburn Range Lookout. This is picture postcard stuff and impossible to catch on camera because of its sheer size and majesty. Spectacular uninterrupted views of the west side of the Cockburn Range unfolded in front of us and we could also see the Durack & Pentecost Rivers along with the western side of Cambridge Gulf, unbelievable and makes all the effort to get here worthwhile. We can see Home Valley Station below us and so we set out to roll, if necessary, the rest of the way, but we had no problem.
Home Valley Station (HV), is located at the foot of the Cockburn Range and on the historic Pentecost River. Covering 3.5 million acres, HV is a working cattle station at the eastern end of the Gibb River
Road and neighbours with El Questro (next blog entry). Both stations are engulfed by a landscape of breathtaking contrast and I now understand how this region, the Kimberley , can ingrain itself in your blood and why the early cattlemen, pioneers and current owners protected and treasure this country, it is unique, heartbreaking and rewarding at the same time.
HV is owned by the Indigenous Land Corporation and was purchased on behalf of the Balanggarra people of the East Kimberley. It is a working cattle station, an indigenous training facility and unbelievably fantastic premium tourist destination set in a property that is brimming with natural attractions. Even checking in was a pleasure, the staff were chatty and helpful. The ILC has involved local indigenous people in all aspects of the station’s running, from the cattle operations through to tourism. We were told that HV employs up to 14 students in indigenous Tourism, Hospitality and Horticultural Traineeships. In addition, HV offers a number of other apprenticeships within the commercial kitchen and mechanical workshop. What we saw was working and meeting some of these ‘graduates’ and current students was enlightening and shows that the system ‘aint entirely broke. It can work’.
Speaking of Mechanical Workshops, I spoke with Dave the manager of this Dept, about my ‘fuel issue’ and after dropping the Troll off so they could have a look at it for me, a couple of hours later I was told it was ready. 'What happened' I asked, the fuel filter was blocked solid and not allowing anything to pass through (new filter 5000klm ago in Busso!) I had a look at it in a bowl with the ‘crap’ that came out and I am amazed it went at all. My hand pumping was the only way fuel got through and that was why it had to be done every 15 minutes or so to keep moving, ‘never seen anything like it’ he says, and I had to agree. Having a fuel filter with me was an asset and a lesson learned, always have one on hand as you don’t know when you will pick up a load of rubbish fuel (Mt Barnett Roadhouse???).
Back to HV, ahhh the ablutions block!! Why do I mention them when I have never mentioned ablutions blocks before, because they were unbelievable and so good, you travellers all coming this way need
Gibb River Road
Confluence of rivers - Pentecost in foreground to know about them. Two levels of camping are offered, up at the complex itself (near Dusty’s Bar & Grill) or about 2 Klm away down on the Pentecost River, with the ‘Salties’, but what a magnificent camp-site and still with the same standard of amenities, brilliant! In addition to camping, HV offers safari style tents (with own ensuite) as well as bungalows over the lagoon and motel style rooms, all brilliant. Dusty’s Bar and Grill was a fantastic centre piece alongside the pool. Trish & I had dinner one night at Dusty’s and the food was brilliant, washed down with a good bottle of red – the joys of ‘roughing it’ whilst on the road!! The entertainment was provided by the resident artist Kevin Wanna – great paintings and boy could he sing, all the old Slim Dusty songs. Then a young guy took the stage and he sat there with his guitar and sang Hallelujah (Leonard Cohen) & wow, our jaws dropped – you could have heard a pin drop in the bar – he was truly amazing!! His name was Alex and he was passionate about music, but he was also the astrology tour guide for the
Station – man of many talents – we really enjoyed our evening at Dusty’s and would recommend this to all travellers on their way through.
Home Valley Station was a great stop and I would love to come back here for a longer stay, yes, I did get caught by Trish asking Dave if he had any jobs going. Seriously, it would be an amazing experience. Sadly we were off tomorrow after a great few days, but hey, it is the famous El Questro next….
Check out this site: www.hvstation.com.au
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faye
non-member comment
wow
all sounds wonderful. sorry it has taken me so long to reply. As you would appreciate Mike I need time to sit and read!!!!! which I have tonite. Great reporting agin. The HV sounds wonderful a very positive place for our indigenous friends. love you both. xxx