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Published: November 17th 2011
Natural Hazard Sign
These were continuous for 1700Klm and included at various stages - Emus, Kangaroos, Camels, Cattle and Wombats, Neil The Duck with Trish and Jackie.Leaving the beautiful Fowlers Bay we headed for our first stop, Nundroo. Heading out of Fowers Bay towards Coorabie we wondered if the road would be a 'track' like the one we came in on but were pleasantly surprised by a well graded road in reasonable condition.
Nundroo is the first of the "Road Houses' that are strategically placed across the Nullarbor to ensure that no one has an excuse for a costly recovery when running out of fuel. Basically a fuel and eating facility ! This one also had a caravan park 'of sorts' and a bar as most of them do. We had prepared to free camp across the Nullarbor and as such never stayed in one of the road house facilities. We did however top up our Diesel here to allow us to by pass some of the more expensive road house stops.
Soon after leaving Nundroo, the highway enters Yalata Aboriginal Lands. Yalata covers 458,000ha and spans 150Klm of the Eyre Highway. Yalata Station or Yalata Lands are now owned and operated by the Yalata Aboriginal Community Incorporated. Home to about 400 people, the Yalata Anangu, you can only venture off the Eyre Hwy with
a permit. Yalata Station used to run up to 125, 000 sheep, today not a 'hoof' walks on the land !
Between Nundroo and Yalata on the Eyre Hwy we saw part of the famous Dog fence. A pest exclusion fence that runs for more than 5, 600 Klm across 3 states (it does not have to protect much on Yalata now!).
Our next visit was to the 'Head of Bight', still on Yalata Land and operated by the community. The Gov't has put in about $16m into this facility and it is fantastic. Just 12 Klm off the Eyre Hwy the Head of Bight is a premier whale watching area of Australia, where the white sand dunes and beaches meet the Bunda Cliffs of the Nullarbor. Up to 170 Southern Right Whales may gather at any one time here for breeding. The boardwalks at the Head of Bight were unbelievable and afford all who visit fantastic views of these amazing creatures and the Bunda Cliffs. The whale watching season is from 1st May to the end of October and so unfortunately Trish and I did not see any whales we were only able to enjoy the views.
We can only imagine the number of people that must line up each day in this remote part of Australia to watch the whales along these boardwalks, apparently there can be up to 100 people on some days.
It is amazing how some places can affect you, Trish and I discussed this later as we drove away. I found the place quite 'spiritual' (do I have any indigenous blood in me??? - I doubt it !!) and Trish was totally 'emotional', as she had been on a previous trip to the centre when she first saw Uluru. It may have had something to do with the fact it was Jackie's birthday today, it may have been that on the 11th minute of the 11th hour of the 11th month we were both sat quietly looking out to the Sthn Ocean, who knows, but we both came away feeling we had just had a 'great experience.'
There is no camping at the Head of Bight, but we saw a fantastic ute with a Harley on the back of it hooked up to a big caravan, (great setup, $$$$) in the car park and found out that it belonged to
a 67 YO man and his wife. He had collapsed in the car park, massive seizures, and had been air lifted out by the RFDS. ...we wished him well.
Our next stop was to call into the Nullarbor Roadhouse, again eating and fuel facility with Bar and camping grounds. No fuel needed by us but we noticed that diesel was $2.05/Ltr !
After Nullarbor Road House we looked for a campsite for the night and found one some 500mtrs off the road and about 30 metres from the edge. So we camped on top of the Bunda Cliffs that night (after leaving Yalata Lands!) about 30KLm from Border Village ('Check Point Charlie"!). and what a fantastic camp site it was. I will let the pictures tell the story but the sounds of the ocean and the sunset were to die for.
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faye gronow
non-member comment
There is no doubt in my mind that when Neil and i do travell we will try and follow your "tread marks!" Happy birthday to jackie. Hope she got something nice for her birthday knowing you 2 she did. Appreciated your experiences at the head of bight, a combination of things, but how lovely you both experienced the mixed emotions. Looking forward to the pictures. I bet you are very glad of the porta-potty, have you used it yet Mike?