Kakadu Dreaming

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Wednesday, 31 August 2011
Kakadu dreaming.
Off we go from Darwin, happy to have enjoyed such a great time there.

We headed toward Kakadu National Park. Our first stop along the way was the Jumping Crocodile Cruise on the Adelaide River Queen. As we cruised down the river, crocodiles would approach the boat, in the hope that they would get a treat of a hunk of pork dangled over the side of the boat. The tour operators had learned over the past 27 years that if you entice them enough, the crocodiles would jump out of the water to grab the meat. We fed about 15 crocodiles before turning around and heading back to the jetty. On our way back, we noticed a number of hawk like birds in the sky following us. That number increased until an entire flock of about 40 birds was approaching. These birds were kites – both the black kite and whistling kite, native to the area. They are raptors or carnivorous birds, huge talons and sharp eyes, similar to hawks and eagles. The operators through small pieces of pork out the side of the boat, and we were able to see these large birds swoop down to catch the food in mid air, and eat as they flew along. It was incredible to see these birds up close.

On the cruise were a class of indigenous students (about 9-11 years old) who were from Mataranka. The teacher shared that each student spoke at least 3 languages – 2 local dialects in addition to English.
Back in the car, we drove further toward Kakadu. We stopped for lunch at the Bark Hut Inn, a roadhouse close to the Kakadu border.

Finally into Kakadu. My first impressions weren’t high. The views from the highway weren’t much different to what we had seen, and I really wondered if we were in some cultural wilderness region with no real beauty. I was to be proven wrong.

We checked in at the Kakadu Lodge, and after a quick swim, drove out to Ubirr (pronounced Oo-Beer). I really wasn’t sure what we’d see here, but had heard it was worth seeing. The rocks as we drove in were impressive. We alighted our vehicle, noticing a number of other vehicles in the carpark, and walked along the track.

We were treated to indigenous rock paintings thousands of years old, and more detailed than I had seen before. The local tribes had adopted the ‘X-ray’ style of painting in the past 2,000 years, and the amount of paintings was incredible. We also found that we were in time for some of the ranger talks. These paintings were where people lived, and some were even in sacred sites. I felt a stranger in my own country – this was so foreign, and so beautiful. Even the languages spoken by the indigenous were foreign. It was if, we were encroaching on their country.

Finally we climbed up to the top of the lookout and watched the sunset. I’m running out of superlatives to describe the beauty here. The experience however won’t be easily forgotten.

Song of the Day: Treaty by Yothu Yindii

Game of the Day: What were the aborigines trying to teach here?

Thursday, 1 September 2011
More Kakadu

While most of Australia recognises today as the first day of spring, the locals view this as the early part of Yerreng – the season of the ‘hot dry’. This season builds into Gummerreng which is the time of the building clouds before monsoon or the big wet. Just some of the culture we were exposed to today.

Packing up in Jabiru, we headed to the Bowali Visitor Centre. Visitors Centres have become almost a routine of our visits to places in an attempt to gather some local perspective on what is best to see and do in the area. The suggestion was to head to Yellow Water and go on a 2 hour cruise. Neither time nor money permitted this, but we went to Yellow Water all the same – and wandered out on the boardwalk.
This walk was filled with watching waterbirds foraging for fish, and insects, along with seeing fish jumping through the billabongs, and big red dragonflies zipping in all directions. The beauty around us was astounding. I could have sat there for hours watching the changing scenes as flocks of birds flew down to drink, and catch their meals.

We treated ourselves to icecreams at the Gagadju Lodge – this was a place I could see myself staying at for a week. We then visited the Waradjun Cultural Centre to learn about the indigenous peoples of Kakadu, their language, and how they lived (what they cooked, ate, and when).

After Yellow Water we travelled south to the Mirray Lookout. As we got out of the car, we were accosted by a swarm of bees that had been disturbed by previous travellers. With some effort, we got back in the car, and eventually shoed the bees out of the car. Happily no casualties were reported, and we figured the lookout may not have been the best to see anyway!

Further south, we unhitched the caravan at the ranger station, and drove the 39km of gravel roads into Gunlom. The gravel was very loose, and quite challenging to drive. After quite some time we arrived at Gunlom, and only a short hike away was Gunlom Falls. The most welcome relief was to swim in the plunge pool below the falls. Katrina and Anthony again swam all the way to the falls, through rather cool water. Again it felt like a slice of paradise with small fish swimming over clear water and light coloured sands. The pandanus trees lined the shores, while the cliffs of the escarpment rose behind.

Not long after, we headed back to pick up the caravan – hitched her up, and headed south to Katherine. Mind you, it’s a long way to Katherine, and we arrived after dark. Luckily we stayed at a caravan park that had a bistro, and ended our journey of the day with a nice feed.

Song of the Day : Digital Didj by Jamiroquai
Game of the day: What does that road sign mean (Teaching Anthony the rules of the road)

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