Hey Woofa!

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So I've just returned to Darwin after 2 weeks in the small town of Jabiru.

What was I doing in Jabiru? Having heaps of fun, that's what! I had entered Global Gossip in Darwin one afternoon, and saw an advertisement for "Willing Workers Wanted". I thought, hey, I'm one of those...Top End Explorer Tours, based in Jabiru, was looking for someone to help wash and prepare the tour trucks in exchange for food, accommodation and free day tours to Kakadu National Park and Arnhemland.
How was I going to turn that down?

First I had to see Litchfield National Park, which I did by booking a day tour with Kakadu Dreams (wasn't that fun, Regine?). Our tour guide, Joey, was quite possibly one of the most attention-seeking but funniest guides I've ever met. Quite adept in the ways of the didgeridoo, he gave us quick lessons in the washroom of the Butterfly Hut, a very laid-back cafe/road house.
Over the next few hours, we got to see massive termite mounds, and marveled at the sights of Tolmer, Wangi and Florence Falls, and Bluey Rockhole. Bluey was a bit of an odd spot for me...it was beautiful but too crowded for me with maybe 30-40 people there. Litchfield is beautiful, close to Darwin, compact and open to everyone (paved paths, 2WD access, etc), so it can get rather crowded. I was glad to visit it but it was a bit odd after a month of having beautiful nature to myself! On our way home, we were entertained by Joey, who somehow managed to keep the bus on the road while exchanging various costumes and using props to surprise other drivers!

So at 6am the next day, I was on a Top End Escapes bus on the way to Jabiru, where I was met by Steve Toms, owner of Top End Explorer Tours, and his 4-year-old son Philip. The next two weeks flew by, as Todd, Claude, Mike, Steve, Anja, Lottie and of course Philip kept me entertained. I managed to get a few tours of the area by the end.
One trip to Cooinda with Mike resulted in a surprise Yellow Water Boat cruise on the Yellow Water Billabong, which was absolutely beautiful and full of wonderful water birds and heaps of crocodiles (and no, I didn't have my camera...so no croc photos!). I also saw Nourlangie Rock, with wonderful rock art and shelters.
On a 4WD trip with Todd I got to swim at the top of Maguk (Barramundi Gorge), where the water was warm and very dark! There I also managed to get stuck in a rock pool, as there was a neat underwater hole in the wall that led to the next rock pool. However, I have a problem with diving and staying underwater (strange...I can't sink!), so I found myself unable to dive through the hole, but also unable to climb back out of the rock pool due to the very smooth rock walls surrounding me. I finally was pulled out by one of the Dutch girls on the tour.
Afterwards we hiked to the famous Jim Jim Falls, which you reach after quite possibly the longest 900-metre walk ever! Over rocks and boulders and through sandy bits, I'm not sure who measured the path but it sure feels longer than 900 m! I loved the hike and was very glad the rest of the group did too! Lunch by the waterfall was beautiful, and I froze afterwards when I went for a very very quick swim in the cold waters.

My last tour was with Mike again, but this time to Arnhem Land. Which is stunning. So pristine and beautiful and it should not be allowed to be open-access! A permit is required to enter Arnhem Land...you also need to cross the East Alligator River if you're coming from Jabiru. We stopped at Oonepelli to get a guide for the morning, and caught a glimpse of artists painting, preparing bark and sanding didgeridoos. Outside the town, Gary led us up and around Injalak Hill, sharing with us some of the stories preserved in the rock paintings. We learned of spirits and punishments, of foods and ceremonies, and of celebrations and burials.

We then had morning tea at one of the most beautiful spots for, well, morning tea. Mike played barrista and served us our coffees and teas as we took in the breath-taking scenery. As we ventured onwards to see a bit more art and hear a few more stories, I managed to mis-step and come away with a few souvenir scrapes and bruises (I honestly felt like I should act out Peter's fall in Family Guy). We stopped by the Art Centre again, saying goodbye and thanks to Gary, and made a few purchases. The Art Centre there sells the artwork at a low commission, which goes back into funding the Art Centre and the artists. Seeing the prices there made me realize how much commission art galleries make. I wanted to buy more but the severe lack of funds means I'll just have to go back one day! Lunch was by a lovely billabong, then we got to see a bit more rock art (including some famous Arnhem Land rock art) and hear a few more stories, Mike-style. He also showed us a massive rock formation with spears stuck in the cracks...a seemingly impossible task but the binoculars showed he wasn't joking for once.
As we crossed the East Alligator River again, I waved boh-boh (local for bye-bye) to Arnhem Land and hoped the roads would remain unsealed and that the locals wouldn't be harassed by the federal government. It was beautiful. Just beautiful.

So those were my two weeks in the Darwin area. I'm quite liking the Top End.

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Photos

Rock Stories
Rock art in Kakadu National Park

Termite Mounds
Cathedral termite mounds in Litchfield National Park, NT

East Alligator River
The East Alligator River, one of the major rivers in the Top End

Darwin Dreams
The lovely, croc-infested waters of Darwin

Florence Falls
One of the double waterfalls in Litchfield National Park