Can you hear? Can you hear the thunder?

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Monday 11th June - Sydney - Happy birthday to the queen in oz - why is it a different day here? and happy birthday to Carla our roommate who was crowned Queen of the Scubar the other night. She forced 20 bucks on me for finding her coat so I forced a beautiful birthday cake on her - even.

Tuesday 12th June - We went out to Bondai Beach which is smaller than I imagined (isn't everything) and it has beautiful pink sand and amazing surfers who are as good as I'm sure we will be very soon!

Wed 13th June - Port Maquaaarieeee - As the Chinese embassy has finally agreed to let us leave Sydney we were off to Port Maquarie, although we nearly weren't allowed on the bus because I cant pronounce it. - You have to say Quarry in a ridiculous aussie accent and they still laugh at you. Friendly small seaside town and a very hyper lady from the hostel picked us up and showed us around.

Thurs 14th June - Beautiful long hike along the coast over seven or eight beaches, through forests to a lighthouse which could be the one from Round the Twist apart from the fact that it was far too small. We could see the spouts of migrating humpback whales far out at sea.

Fri 15th June - It is raining again. It is always freezing and bloody raining in Oz. We have been misled! Walked through a swampy mysterious ravine. Saw Alfie which is the worst acting I have ever seen from Jude Law and that is saying something.

Sat 16th June - Bellingen - We went on a very exciting speedboat out to watch humpback whales migrating. We saw two very close and the driver (skipper?) kept saying 'Ohh it looks like they are about to jump' but they never did. Another bus to a lovely place called Bellingen in the rainforest. Hippyish community but with a simultaneous cowboy feel to the town. Very nice hostel with a view out to the river and mountains. We sat by a wood fire where this swedish guy was burning massive amounts of seaweed to make soap.

Sun 17th June - We cycled for 20km. So much exercise this week. We cycled to never never creek which is just like where they go when they runaway in Neighbours with the wooden dunny with spiders lurking in and everything. Although it was only us there. Tough cycle up lots of hills on the way up and wonderful coasting all the way down.
Sat around a very friendly fire, we couldnt help feeling that all the conversations here have happened years ago and these people should remember from the first time 'Bob Dylan will be remembered as the greatest songwriter of our generation' No shit. This place is stuck in a timewarp. Just say no! kids.

Mon 18th June - Dorrigo National Park and Byron Bay - Lovely hike through the Rainforest with a really interesting guide. Learnt about the strangler fig which kills its host over 100 years and the Black Cockatoo which impersonates all the other birds to impress the ladies. Saw a wallaby (finally something kangaroo like). Greyhound to Byron Bay. Checked in to the YHA which is a bit like a motel or a prison. Watched Wolf Creek. AHHHH That's not a knife. This is a knife. What a silly film to be scared by. Glad we ain't going to the outback.

Tues 19th June - Explored Byron Bay and went swimming in the bracing sea enjoying being thrown around by the waves. Caught the sun when it is really only slightly warm. celtic curse.

Wed 20th June - We moved to the Arts Factory which is this wonderful hippyish village and we are sleeping in a teepee by the swamp. Pretending that this is glastonbury and that I am not stupidly jealous of you guys who are there. We went on a bushtucker walk with Cockatoo Paul and got taught about surviving on different plants and weeds - they all taste like watercress. Bit disconcerting 'you can eat that, and that, that will kill you in five minutes' etc. Then we put on a million layers and stood outside watching Cockatoo Paul's one man band - he is a bit like Dick Van Dyke in Mary Poppins.

Thurs 21st June - We had our first surf lesson from the two Dans who were great instructors who had us all standing pretty quickly. Surfing is so much fun. They said that I was 'on fire' and I was well chuffed as I didn't expect to be able to stand. Hot tub which wasnt hot and then out to Cheeky Monkeys with Nadine, our canadian friend. We were the first people dancing on the tables - you have to there is nowhere else to dance.

Fri 22nd June - Aching so much. Feel like I've been in a fight with the sea. Watched 'Half Nelson' which is an incredible film. Made me think a lot about and miss teaching, in the amazingly cool seventies leopard print cinema.

Sat 23rd June - Surfer's Paradise - is not paradise it is rubbish. High rise, costa del sol hellhole. Glad we are leaving tomorrow.

Sun 24th June - Brisbane - Explored the city which is lovely but so similar to so many aussie and Us cities. We met up with my friend Libby who used to work at the Standard with me in Edinburgh. It was lovely to see her and hear about her life in Brisbane.

Mon 25th June - We went to the art galleries on their south bank. I really liked these miniatures by an artist called Quereshi and saw more of these gold murals by Brett Whiteley. We kicked ass in the hostel pub quiz (well we came a close fourth).

Tues 26th June - Bus to Noosa Heads. Torrential rain all day. Surrounded by british 18 year olds in constant torrential rain - oz is so similar to home. Dammit. Read an incredible novel by Marian Keyes.

Wed 27th June - Went to the beach and walked around looking at the everglades in beautiful sunshine. Lots of aussies on holiday here, they can buy lovely things and eat meals in nice restaurants.

Thurs 28th June - Bus to Hervey Bay. Preparations for our four day group self drive adventure round Fraser Island, oz's largest sand island. Very excited.

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