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Published: July 13th 2012
<span><span>The US is everything you think it will be - huge, excessive, clever, brash, vulgar in parts, sublime in others, inventive, bewildering and for me, huge fun! Having lived here 20 years ago, I was surprised how country mouse I felt. But given the pervasive nature of American culture, you become accustomed to the flow of things relatively easily.
<span>I chose NYC because I wanted to experience the quintessential city. From the splendid musical MEMPHIS thru to the clean & handy subway thru to the Museum of Natural History and the omnipresent security checks, NYC is Unique. I was so pleased to share it with the wonderful Naomi, whose scheduling and organizing prowess are legendary - I still owe you a tip, Miss Concierge!
<span>Some things were confronting - mostly relating to heightened security - armed soldiers in the subways some days, the constant and significant police presence in the streets, and one highly armed ESU response, with helmets, automatic weapons and hand signals - moving at speed down 6th ave and which everyone, bar me, ignored.
<span>But you get why - visit the 9/11 Memorial gardens, which are lovely and heartbreaking, and the shock and disbelief is still palpable.
<span>Whatever your view on 9/11 and the subsequent horrors that continues to embroil the world, we all share the fallout. I was surprised by how angry I became at the disrespect people showed in the presence of people for whom the wounds are still raw and likely very personal. But that's the modern condition - short attention spans, a photo opportunity and then on to the next experience. Me included. But I hope the memorial brings some space for contemplation at least.
<span>But the city is more than 9/11 of course. Waiting for my laundry to dry on my last day in New York gave me time to think on this amazing city and all it represents. New York is writ large with superlatives - and I can offer nothing new there, but here are my thoughts.
<span>The city is enormous and I only visited Manhattan - avenues divide the city north & south, with streets spreading uptown from the South Ferry to Staten Island - its split east & west by 5th ave. I stayed near mid town, on 7th Ave and West 30th - opposite Penn Station - close to everything, especially of you love to walk - and I love to walk. NYC is a walkers' city - walking its many blocks (even in the 38C heat), there is so much to see - with people making the most engaging sights of all - 8 million inhabitants plus tourists!
<span>The people of Manhattan live large & loudly, but were unfailingly kind & helpful to me. Their reputation for being brusque was not evidenced to me in my short time - they are busy & engaged, but happy to help. They are from all parts of the planet - name badges bely journeys made by earlier generations from around the globe & rich accents reveal newer residents.
<span>It can be an alienating place - you could disappear into the concrete and metal and dirt were it not for oasis of colour and cool and green like Central Park or the delightful Highline gardens, which I walked from West 30th to West 15th with the wonderful Kirsty & Linda. These kind souls, who showed me the ins & outs of kayaking, traveled from up state New York to send a morning with me - we had a fun lunch at the Chelsea markets, which I can also recommend - including a delicious People's Ice Pop - strawberry and balsamic crush - yummy on a hot day!
<span>The past is also fascinating. Standing in the shade waiting to clear security for Ellis Island (around 90 mins to the actual screening) I was acutely aware that the American Dream comes at a cost. For the millions who have left their birth places to take a chance on a better place and more opportunity. That takes enormous will and the buildings and streets of NYC are a testament to their sacrifices, and by migrants everywhere. The museum is filled with the photos of people who passed thru on their way to a new & I hope better life. I met a young woman last night who explained she and her dad had found their first American relative in the huge lists that people can search.
<span>Connection is as real today as the faces captured by Augustus Sherman from 1921-1925, an officer with a passion for photography and unflinching portraits. Direct, resilient and committed to making a fist of it, these people reach out dressed in national costumes from some countries that no longer exist. Equally impressive are the images of the 20% not admitted and deported back to their homelands - they challenge you - what happened to them next? All those dreams washed away because of illness, age or simply not understanding the system.
<span>The first challenge for the would be Americans was to walk up two flights of stairs without puffing - most visitors on the day I was there couldn't manage it. If you were deemed mentally and physically suitable, there were hurdles to prove you could support yourself - although you couldn't have a job waiting for you! Aid Societies proved invaluable by giving support and touches of home while problems were resolved. And some waits took months, while people recovered their health, got their papers in order, found a character reference to get them off the Iskand. Such sad stories of families split up (sick family members being deported, children dying in isolation wards) recorded by those who were there - and making you remember again how fortunate are your circumstances. In the end, you can become a citizen - pledging allegiance to the new & remembering always the old - the citizenship test was fun, albeit I only got 84%!! It's one of my favorite places in the city and well worth the wait to visit.
<span>From NYC I travelled to Las Vegas, which is where I am ensconced on a not quite as hot as yesterday day. While the people are pleasant (customer service is incredible & can't be faulted) Vegas leaves me stone cold - quite a feat in a week of 45C plus days. Not a lot of heart here, despite the good times vibes. And while I've had some great experiences like the wildly eccentric & fun BLUE MAN GROUP as well as the trip to the sublime Grand Canyon and reveling in the ubiquitous Cirque Du Soleil, what I enjoyed about NYC, the bustle and pulse, just wearies me here.
<span>It's not just the heat and smoke and unrelenting consumerism - I'd be a hypocrite if I said the shopping hasn't been fun - new workout gear secured and test driven, too much grrrly makeup snaffled- the city lacks something real to me because everything is make believe - from the Mirage's nightly volcanic eruptions thru to the people soliciting tips while dressed in knock off cartoon character costumes. Nothing wrong or bad about it, just soulless. But what did I expect? Its a completely artificial town in the middle of the beautiful and austere Nevada desert. Never quiet, never dark, never still. Walking is hard work because it's about keeping moving to avoid crowds carrying yard long drinks, sidestepping babies in strollers at 2300 and deflecting the occasional hustler, who can be "no thank you'd" without fuss.
<span>Perhaps I'm just ready for home and am over the novelty of finding a new place to eat every meal & remembering to tip correctly. I have another day and a bit here and then Disneyland & home. I hope I'm able to appreciate my last week - so many people have helped me be here and it would be churlish not to carpe diem the rest of my time. But am already thinking "This time next week, I'll be back in Oz" and trying to get back in the groove of my real life - family, hound, friends, work & gym.
<span>But now, it's Time to get organized for dinner - I'm partial to Denny's salads with grilled chicken - but so it seems is every other person looking for a meal at a reasonable cost. Standing room only! And of course, free wifi!
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Peter Welling
non-member comment
Come home
Hi Krusty We are now out of OCIO in the Government Service Group with Shared Service, new ED role to be called soon and our community of practice is launching 31 July and booked out in 1 day! Its all happening, please come home :) Good to hear you are enjoying the trip, please dont apply for leave ever again.....