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Published: August 3rd 2017
After only two days at the Carl Precht Memorial RV Park in Omak WA, I headed for the Wilderness Village RV Park in Rockport WA for a WEEK-LONG stay. In the four weeks I’ve been working on the 2017 chapter of
The Great Adventure, I have stayed at some seven RV parks. That’s nearly double my normal number, but I am now back on course after my delayed departure from Apache Junction AZ; however, in that effort, I have stricken some stops from the original itinerary and abbreviated others to get me back on my normal “one week per stop” routine and back to Apache Junction “in a timely fashion.”
This is the first drive I’ve had in quite some time that was adversely affected by an unexpected fly in the proverbial ointment – a detour. I got a glimpse of a lighted, dynamic road sign as I was making the turn from US 97 onto WA 20 in Okanogan WA, but all I saw during the L-O-N-G illumination phase was “Road Closed.” With several route options emanating from Okanogan, I was confident I would have more signage if my route were the affected route and continued full speed ahead.
About 5-7 miles west on WA 20, I met with a total road closure until 4 PM. The very kind and helpful flagman told me the construction company had lodged its protest about the inadequate and ill-programmed signage with those responsible for the signage, Washington DOT, to no avail and explained my best detour route. The inconvenience cost me a little fuel and about 30 minutes, but it could have been much worse.
I backtracked to US 97, turned south and continued to Pateros WA where I caught WA 153. Actually, I got a bonus as WA 153 is a small part of another very long scenic drive, the
Cascade Loop. Indeed, I thought that part of the drive was scenic but, as the saying goes, “You ain’t seen nothing yet!” At the terminus of the Cascade Loop, I drove directly onto the
North Cascades Scenic Highway. The route passes through the Skagit River Valley amid the jagged peaks of the North Cascades Mountains and then passes by Ross Lake. After seeing the rock spires, hanging valleys, steep summits, thundering waterfalls and snowy glaciers, I understand how the area has become known as the "North American Alps." Awesome! After stopping for a couple
That Is Not a Painting Behind the Powerhouse
Ladder Creek Falls & Gorge Powerhouse - Newhalem WAof photographic opportunities, I decided to revisit North Cascades Scenic Highway on another day without the Bighorn in tow.
Saturday, July 15, 2017 found me making a profound miscalculation. I thought that would be a good day for a scenic drive – if I hit the road after the weekend warriors had found their spot in their favorite RV park. My reasoning might have been sound, but the parking lots at the trailheads and other local attractions on my agenda were overflowing. There was scarcely room for a Smart Car let alone my truck. I did manage to make a couple of productive stops and familiarize myself with the area more effectively without the Bighorn in tow.
My GPS took me to Cascade River Road, but right off the bat, I couldn’t find the (according to multiple sources) “only distant views” of Irene Creek Falls; however, the near bank of the Cascade River was so heavily saturated with saplings that I, perhaps, merely couldn’t find the correct gap in the underbrush. Regardless, it is not worth pursuing unless one wants to paddle or trek on the opposite side of the Cascade River for a close-up view vs. the
“only distant view” I was seeking.
Gorge Creek provided three stopping points for me. My first stop was
Ladder Creek Falls and the Gorge Powerhouse in Newhalem WA. The Skagit River Hydroelectric Project is a series of dams with hydroelectric power-generating stations on the Skagit River owned and operated by Seattle City Light. The three major dams are (from lower to upper) Gorge Dam, Diablo Dam and Ross Dam. Diablo Lake and Ross Lake are readily seen adjacent to WA 20 – the North Cascades Scenic Highway – and there is a large, very nice (plenty of parking) overlook for Ross Lake. Ross Lake, the northernmost of the three dam-created lakes, extends into British Columbia.
Construction of Gorge Dam began in 1921 with the first power delivered to Seattle in 1924. In 1961, a new Gorge High Dam was completed (300 feet) to replace the original Gorge Dam. Diablo Dam construction began in 1927 five miles upstream from Gorge Dam and was completed in 1930. At that time, it was the tallest dam in the world at 389 feet; however, the dam produced no electricity for Seattle until 1936. Construction of Ruby Dam began in 1937. The dam was renamed
In Places, It Is Quite Powerful
Ladder Creek Falls & Gorge Powerhouse - Newhalem WA Ross Dam after the death of James Delmage Ross (1872–1939), the superintendent of the Skagit River Project. Construction of Ross Dam was to take place in three stages with the first stage being completed in 1940. The second and third stages were completed in 1953, when the dam was built to its final height of 540 feet. All three dams are listed in the National Register of Historic Places.
Ladder Creek Falls is located behind the Gorge Powerhouse. First, one crosses the pedestrian suspension bridge toward the powerhouse and follows the trail which meanders through manicured gardens. The trail then reaches Ladder Creek Falls. The steep parts of the 0.4-mile loop trail have steps with handrails. Several segments of the falls are individually impressive, and, if one could visualize the entire falls simultaneously, it would be awesome; however, that is a big if. Regardless, the bridge and the powerhouse are unique, the walk and the waterfall are nice and the 30-45-minute experience is worthy.
My second “Gorge” stop was the Gorge Creek Dam and Overlook Trail. This feature found its way onto the Park Service map, but there is little other information available. The trail circles a big
Overall, It Is an Attractive Feature
Ladder Creek Falls & Gorge Powerhouse - Newhalem WA hill (or small mountain – you decide) for a paved 1/2 mile where one can get somewhat obstructed views of both the Gorge Creek Dam and Gorge Lake. The trail is a nice leisurely way to spend 30-60 minutes, but for those with time restrictions, there are much more rewarding hiking opportunities in the area.
The third and furthermost upstream stop (sorta makes me feel like a salmon headed for the ‘ole spawning grounds), offered the most accessible viewpoint and the most striking vistas.
Gorge Creek Falls, one of the few developed waterfalls in North Cascades National Park, is a great example of the proverbial “saving the best for last.” A bridge accommodating pedestrians and WA 20 spans the impressive gorge a short distance below the falls. Parking areas (both on the south side of WA 20) have been built on both sides of the bridge – the east side parking area can accommodate motorhomes and trailers but the west side, not so much. A crosswalk on the west side of the bridge leads to a pedestrian walkway along the north side of the bridge and a spectacular view of the falls while the views of Gorge Lake, also from a
This Photograph Does Not Do the Waterfall Justice
Gorge Creek Falls – North Cascades National Park WA pedestrian walkway, can be enjoyed from the south side of the bridge. The parking lot is well signed, and the falls is marked on the National Park Service visitor map.
Gorge Creek Falls, with a total height of 242 feet, is impressive. There are five drops with the greatest being 100 feet; however, the day I visited, the water flow probably was not as great as at peak flow. Seeing the falls is easy, but photographing it is difficult. I have included a photo of the falls; however, it’s impossible to get any true appreciation of its awesomeness. I zoomed my camera and took a 0:23-second video, but I can’t embed a video in the blog. Anybody who would like a video, please email me at
retiredfflarry@yahoo.com, and I’ll reply with a copy. Along the way, I made stops at Sattler Falls and Ketchum Creek Falls, both small, roadside waterfalls; however, the parking was impossible at the trailheads for both of my planned hikes.
I also made a stop at the
North Cascades National Park Visitor Center in Newhalem WA and was fortunate enough to find a truck-size parking spot relative quickly. Outside, a ranger was providing visitors with bear information and had
mounted specimens of both a grizzly and a black. She said there were at least two grizzlies in North Cascades and, perhaps, as many as five. It’s hard to determine whether a single sighting of multiple bears has occurred or if multiple sightings of the same bear have occurred. Inside, the video of the day was about grizzlies. In total, very interesting and informative. The park rangers were swamped, so I abandoned my list of questions about hiking opportunities.
Sunday was a NASCAR, I’m-waiting-until-the-crowds-go-back-to-work day, but Monday found me heading in a different direction to accomplish some sightseeing and, possibly, some short hikes. I headed west on WA 20 for about 20 miles and turned north on Forest Service Road (FSR) 11 or Baker Lake Road. I found the sign for the turnoff for FSR 12 and headed west toward my first target – the
Blue Lake Hike (Trail #604), an easy, 0.85-mile hike (according to the National Park Service information I received on Saturday). The first few miles of the gravel road were heavily pockmarked, but the further I went, the better the conditions became.
Along the way, I passed a sign indicating the turnoff for the
Mount Baker National Recreation Area (NRA).
Ready for a Hike?
USFS Route 12 to Blue Lake - Concrete WA As an aside, the Blue Lake Hike also has an option for another hike, the
Dock Butte Trail (Trail #604.1), a spur that begins on the Blue Lake Trail and, allegedly, offers outstanding views of Mount Baker. This longer, more strenuous trail (about 7 percent grade) would have added 4 miles round trip with 1500 feet elevation gain, but the add-on never had an opportunity to be considered – the Blue Lake Hike Trailhead (elevation 3900’) was loaded with about 12-18 inches of snow. I was somewhat bewildered because I understood the snow at higher elevations but never anticipated so much snow at such a low elevation
in July. Since I was wearing ankle-high hiking shoes, I enjoyed the serenity for a few minutes while I developed Plan B.
I headed back toward the FSR 13 junction. When I got to the bifurcation of FSRs 12 and 13, I made an unplanned (Plan B) hard left and headed up yet another hill toward the Mount Baker NRA. About 90 percent of the trip was heavily forested. When I reached the end of the literal road, there were numerous cars in the parking lot along with some outfitter vans either with or
Not So Much!
USFS Route 12 to Blue Lake - Concrete WA without trailers. I took a potty break, stretched my legs and headed back to FSR 11, the Baker Lake Road. During all of these travels, some views of Mount Baker and the surrounding peaks were visible from time to time, and stopping to take a photograph about any place my little heart desired was not hazardous, for a change, but none of these drives should be given any scenic awards. I cannot, in good conscience, recommend venturing into this part of North Cascades National Park for a scenic drive – a hike, yes; fishing, perhaps; but NOT a scenic drive.
Turning north on Baker Lake Road, I began my journey to the
Anderson-Watson Lakes Trailhead (Trail #611). I had no information on the difficulty of the hikes but wanted to make the drive along Baker Lake anyway and hoped there would be information at the trailhead. Baker Lake Road begins at its junction with WA 20 as a very good asphalt road that deteriorates as fewer users have a less impactful voice demanding maintenance and eventually becomes a gravel road that suffers the same deterioration fate. All this road stuff makes sense to me, and I’m not complaining but merely advising
‘Tis a Long Way Down to Lake Ross
Ross Lake Trail to Cedar Hollow Falls - North Cascades National Park WA – easier access, more users, better maintenance; more remote, fewer users, lower priority.
Baker Lake is heavily used and hosts several campgrounds, some with RV accessibility, and fisherpeople are abundant; however, the lake itself is visually pleasing but marginally scenic. What appeared to be a log jam on the north end of the lake, which indicates the prevailing wind must be southerly, was the only truly unique feature I noticed. I did not get a glimpse of Mount Baker until I neared the trailhead – well past the end of the asphalt. I arrived at the Anderson-Watson Lakes Trailhead without incident, found several
cars (lightbulb, 4-wheel drive not required) in the spacious parking lot and the trailhead kiosk which advised the trail was “more difficult.” Given that I am “less fit” and “less young,” that mixture was asking for nothing but trouble, so I stretched my legs and head for the RV park. Were it not for the occasional babbling brook, the infrequent vista and the satisfaction of my curiosity; I might have considered the day a bust.
Tuesday, time for “Waterfall Hunter 2.0!” Since I was making an out and back trip on North Cascades Scenic Highway
This Collection of Fallen Timber Is Unique
USFS Route 1107 to Anderson Lake Trailhead - Concrete WA (WA Route 20), I planned to stop when my targets were on the right-hand side of the road. That might sound a little crazy, but what’s the point of unnecessarily crossing a lane of traffic? Along the way, I stumbled upon several small, unnamed waterfalls. My first target was Ross Lake and the East Bank or Ross Lake Trail which would take me to
Cedar Hollow Falls and
Strandberg Falls. Cedar Hollow Falls is a very nice 126-foot waterfall with three drops. The waterway is Happy Creek or Ruby Creek, depending of which source one uses. That “official name” ambiguity is not an uncommon phenomenon with both waterfalls and creeks – the Hatfields called it Happy Creek and the McCoys called it Ruby Creek. Today, nobody knows why!
While enjoying Cedar Hollow Falls, hikers less than half my age emerged from the downhill side huffin’ and puffin’, so “Old Leatherlungs” decided to make common sense the better part of valor and to remove Strandberg Falls from the agenda. Back to the truck with you, Old Man! Post hike note: AFTER my common sense prevented me from a major blunder, I discovered a new tool that will be very useful when PLANNING an
And Just How Does This Come About, Mr. Greenjeans?
Rainy Lake Trail (#310) to Rainy Lake - North Cascades National Park WA adventure and learned that going to Strandberg Falls would have entailed a 446-foot drop of elevation in 1/2 mile. That’s a 16.89 percent grade.
Next, I made a stop for the
Rainy Lake Hike (Trail #310) to Rainy Lake. This one-mile, out-and-back hike is one I had to postpone on Saturday and one I really wanted to make. In fact, the Rainy Lake Hike was the major reason for my return visit. It sounded fantastic, and the heavy use on Saturday told me my information was probably correct. The paved, fully accessible path is adorned with a small, path-side waterfall and was sporting wildflowers and other interesting flora, including a tree trunk with a “growth,” downed trees decomposing in quite interesting patterns and trees with a 90-degree curve at the base of the trunk. And then, (drum roll, please) Rainy Lake made a dramatic appearance. The lake lies in a narrow pocket called a cirque that was carved by glacial action, thus making it a glacial cirque. Downhill, the glacier deposited rock and soil, forming an earthen dam or moraine which now impounds the lake.
On the opposite side of the lake are two waterfalls. Rainy Lake Falls drops 850
A Small Bonus, If You Will
Rainy Lake Trail (#310) to Rainy Lake - North Cascades National Park WA feet over three drops with each of its three tiers having an average width of about 80 feet. The largest single drop is 300 feet, and a steep talus cascade has accumulated at the foot of the falls. Rainy Lake, et. al., is everything it is purported to be. The walk is captivating, the lake is tranquil, the water is crystal-clear, the falls are mesmerizing and the dirt footpath beyond the improved trail is – well, unknown territory. Perhaps it leads around the lake to the base of the waterfall. You twentysomethings, git ‘er done! As I returned to the trailhead, I found numerous features I had missed as I was inbound.
I next headed for Washington Pass Overlook, the most distal of the day’s attractions. I almost blew it off, but decided to go the extra few miles as long as I was this close. Am I ever happy I did or what! Anybody, I say ANYBODY, who has never been to Washington Pass Overlook and fails to stop when driving only yards from the attraction is doing themselves and their travelling companions a MAJOR disservice. My words cannot begin to describe the awe and splendor I felt
You Write Your Own Caption
Washington Pass Overlook - North Cascades National Park WA at this majestic place, so I’ll let the pictures become my vocal cords. Not only are the views superb, there are well done placards describing how glacial action sculpted the landscape and how the highway was built over the pass. I have been to many scenic overlooks in the last seven-plus years of
The Great Adventure but can think of none that exceed the grandeur of Washington Pass Overlook.
Averaging out the great and the mundane, I had a very nice week in North Cascades National Park. The weather cooperated and the folks were friendly. There were unanticipated bonuses and unfulfilled expectations. I made some of the roads less travelled slightly more travelled than they were last week. Even though crowds hampered my style on a weekend day, persistence paid off on my final day in the area. Oh yes, I found a restaurant,
Mondo Restaurant in Marblemount WA, that served up a dish I had never seen on a menu – salmon fish and chips. It was good enough to lure me back for a return visit.
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