White Knuckles and Elk Encounters in Zion Canyon


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Published: July 16th 2007
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We started out our day of hiking and sightseeing at Zion Park mildly enough. We boarded the shuttle and got off to view the Three Patriarchs--Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob. After that we hopped on the Emerald Pools trail, and hiked the entire 2 miles and enjoyed viewing all three of the lower, middle, and upper pools. That was considered a moderate trail with an ascent of 150 ft. We managed that trail fairly easily even though we began to get some rain sprinkles on our way back down.



We were debating whether or not to attempt the much more strenuous Angel’s Landing trail (2.5 mile, 1,500 ft. ascent), but the overcast weather had us a little worried. The lodge attendants were discouraging any of the longer trails and the forecast was calling for a 30% chance of thunderstorms. Not to mention, the brochures warn of the steep grade and sheer drop-offs, but so many people had told us how “worth-it” the trip is that we wanted to try it. We hem-hawed around in the gift shop for a while, and it looked like it was just going to be light sprinkles off and on, and then I saw something that sealed our fate. They had a t-shirt that boasted completing either the Angel’s Landing trail, or the “almost-there” hike to Scout’s Landing (2 miles, 1000 ft. ascent). Being suckers for a challenge with a silly goal (think Tae Kwon Do belt, scouting badges, etc.), you know what we decided.



Well, we did live to tell the story, and here it is. The first group of people we came across who were on their way down told us the hike was pretty tough, especially the 21 switchbacks you have climb (called Walter’s Wiggles) just before arriving at Scout’s Lookout. They said the rain and wind had been pretty bad when they were up there, so they didn’t continue the rest of the way to Angel’s Landing. We plodded on, figuring if this turned out to be a stupid decision, at least we’d have a story for the blog! As the rain sprinkles continued for the beginning of the hike, we kept encouraging ourselves with a “glass full” attitude, telling ourselves there was a 70% chance of not having thunderstorms. As it turned out, the rain did slack off, and the skies remained overcast, giving us a much more comfortable temperature, probably in the 80s, rather than the high 90s or low 100s.



We continued on, encouraged by group after group we passed telling us it was definitely worth the work. We carried on, taking time to snap a few pictures along the way, not to mention catch our breath and be thankful for all those hill climb workouts on the elliptical trainer. We trudged on up Walter’s Wiggles and were greeted by a fantastic viewing area at Scout’s Lookout. We spent some to snack on trail mix (which has become our standard lunch), rehydrate, enjoy the view, take more pictures, and try to work up the courage to attempt the final 500 ft. ascent. If you’ve never been to Zion, keep in mind that unlike Grand Canyon and Bryce, you start the trail in the canyon, not on the rim. At the other parks, you can choose from a number long or short hikes along the rim without having to do lots of uphill climbing. At Zion, the hike out is much harder than the hike back, and it’s sometimes hard to tell what lies ahead.



The rock that led to Angel’s Landing loomed in front of us, and we worked up the courage to attempt it. We figured by now we had at least earned the Scout’s Lookout shirt, and heck, we could always turn around if it became too difficult. Well, it didn’t take long to get too difficult. The so-called trail in many places consisted of a worn patch of level rock just barely wide enough to fit part of a foot. There were sections of chain meant to help navigate the trail, but it was still slow going. Being the flatlanders that we are, we really had to study the path ahead to figure out where to step, climb, or pull ourselves next. One lady was coming back down the trail, and her legs were giving out—just what I needed to see! After going about 100 ft. we parked ourselves, looked up, looked down, and questioned our sanity. I felt a little bad, because the other couple just behind us starting questioning the wisdom of continuing also. They blamed it on the chain, saying it was making them dependent, and they had done far more risky things in the past. In the end all four of us decided we wanted to see our children again, and turned back around. Myself, I was quite appreciative of that chain and considered it my best friend on the way down. Poor Nick was trying to help guide me down, but I probably haven’t snapped at him like I did since my last childbirth. Once back on a more level rock, I’m certain Scout’s Landing never looked so good to anyone as it did to me. I would have shouted, “Halleluiah!” but I barely had a voice left after my roller coaster screaming a couple of days earlier!




We decided the name Angel’s Landing must have come from someone looking down at their white knuckles clutching the chain and praying to be touched by a guardian angel! One person told us that rescue workers have literally had to pry people’s hands off the chain. At least we weren’t that bad off! Seriously, we weren’t the only ones who opted not to go the full route, but it was a little tough hearing how wonderful the view from the top was. One nice guy, who had made it to the top, comforted us by reminding us how full the park is of beautiful views in every direction.



The trail ends near the river, and since Nick had been itching to explore around the riverbeds for arrowheads, I suggested we walk on down. After a little while, I went on to find a ladies’ room and relax at the Grotto picnic area while Nick continued exploring. On my way to the Grotto, I spotted a beaver lumbering along the riverside. Meanwhile, Nick was totally engrossed in his explorations when he looked up to find himself about 10 ft. away from an elk. The elk did not seem to be phased by Nick’s presence, so he snapped a few pictures and then made an exit before the elk decided to change his attitude and charge him. After Nick told me his tale, my spying of a beaver was not so impressive, but at least I had something to report!



After our eventful afternoon, we continued on the shuttle tour and made stops at Weeping Rock and Big Bend. By then we were ready to call it a day, so we took the shuttle back to our hotel and got ready for supper. After supper, we visited some more shops in Springdale and had a relaxing cup of chai tea before retiring for the night. We would have loved to spend more time at Zion, but the North Rim of the Grand Canyon was calling us next. Stay tuned for our next report . . .


JoNick




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16th July 2007

Wow!!!
The pics are beautiful!
17th July 2007

Wow!
Wowowowowowowowow! You guys are brave! I'm glad you turned around. That looked scary.
17th July 2007

WoweeWowee
That was fun to read!! Dad and I were thinking we were your age when we hiked Vernal Falls in Yosemite. We thought it was pretty risky and only went to the first level falls. We are real impressed with your climb and can relate to the challenge. Zion is gorgeous! Aren't the parks all so different and uniquely beautiful? Looking forward to your adventure into G.Canyon N. rim. We saw some pix from Joan where you are currently. Stay safe..have fun. Love, Mom and Dad

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