Zion & Bryce Canyon with Matt & Ray, Day 3

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October 3rd 2014

Published: October 31st 2014

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Parks Photos

Where's the beef?

When Ebenezer Bryce, the first Mormon settler, was asked how he liked living amidst such beauty answered, "It's a helluva place to lose a cow."

Photos from this day at Bryce Canyon and a few from Zion

Staying at Ruby's Inn is nearly as close as camping right inside Bryce Canyon National Park, and waking up early after traveling 2 time zones west is much easier, so we arrived at Bryce Point in plenty of time for first light. This morning it was only Matt & I. Ray felt a recent cold bug trying to regain strength so he told us last night that he'd skip the first session, and we'd meet him for breakfast.

Early mornings are a great time in the parks. There are no lines getting in because most people are still sleeping, including the rangers who'd be checking for passes at the gate and trying not to slow traffic while remaining helpful and treating each visitor as if this is the most important day of their life. Early mornings are also when I might be driving like a maniac endangering wildlife and civil life alike just trying to get to the shot. Yesterday a local geologist told us the best sunrise shots would be obtained at Bryce Point, and this fact was echoed by a seasoned veteran of the photography craft, Charles Riter, whom we also met last night. Even after scrapping stubborn

Delaware Sky

frost off our windshield at Ruby's, we were early enough for a leisurely ride to the point. We got out, gathered our gear, and headed toward the light. It was then that I realized the t-shirt, fleece and photo jacket I was wearing was an utterly ineffective defense against the whipping wind. There was no morning breeze making steam dance across coffee-cup hand warmers this day. This was the kind of wind that would knock the cup right out of your hand. It was the kind that would blow through you, not stopping at skin. It was cold, but Matt didn't seem to mind. The Relativity of Age.

Matt ran off down the path and I headed up the trail a bit to setup. Charles and the geologist must have mentioned to everyone that this is the place for the morning light. From my position I could see at least 50 photogs gathered at the point a couple hundred yards ahead. I was waiting for some light to shoot, trying to ignore the cold, and greeting many more tripoders on their way up the hill. Finally I shot photo 1, and you can see the wind whipping the branches

Humbling Hoodoos

framing the shot. The sun hadn't risen yet and I was getting cold feet about this being the spot. I knew the best light and compositions would be from where everyone gathered, but my style is to move around more. I tried Matt's cellphone. Then I remembered my youth and simply called out to him. "Hooty-hoot! Call for Matt." Surprisingly he was close enough to hear me. We decided to hop back in the car and move to either Sunrise or Sunset Points. I took the surrounding life in my hands and hurried over to Sunset which was closer. Cars and buses started pouring in Bryce Point as we slipped out. Then I thought of Charles and wished I got his phone number last night. I really wanted to meet up with him again, but at this particular moment the sunrise was the loudest desire screaming in my inner ear.

We made it to Sunset Point without incident or accident. Matt was off down the Navajo Trail after taking a few quick exposures from the rim, and I stayed on top to shoot him in action. Soon he was out of sight, and I turned to the hoodoos instead.

The Crack

He didn't reappear until photo 14, just before the sun broke the horizon --right on time at 7:33. At this location there were mostly hikers and only a very few with tripods. It's pretty cool hearing others being concerned that I get the shot, especially those who don't even have a camera with them. Twice while setup here someone walking by made sure I saw some special spot where light was shinning. Once I heard a lady say to her man who was walking back uphill to make sure I saw something, "Oh, he see's it. Look he already changed lenses." I threw them both a broad smile and wave of gratitude.

Eventually I worked my way up to the lookout where there was only one other photographer. There's an odd thing I've mentioned before that deserves another nod. Photographers for some reason seem very quiet in the early morning light, like they don't want to disturb the proceedings. I comply with a sense a reverence for place and process, but smile inside at the thought of trying to not wake the rocks. I tried to not disturb the other photog, who seemed intensely involved in his craft, and

Trail Trial

shot a few more scenes of hoodoos that were waking with new color bathed in the early morning sunshine. I was ready to move uphill when Christopher finally broke the silence by asking some question about Zion. Only too happy to proudly share my knowledge and gain some from him, we were soon in an enthusiastic conversation about the wonders of America and the current technology with which to explore and capture it. He showed me his phone where he collected from the Internet all of his favorite photos from some of the amazing scenes this country has to offer. Christopher was from China where he quit his job to come here to experience the beauty in person, and he had a ton of resources to find and record the moments. What a great idea. I'd say he was about 30ish years old and he was off on a thrill of a lifetime, fortifying his life with a special closeness to the land and all that it has to offer while gathering mementos to help his old-age recall it. He was also wise enough to realize the importance of meeting people along the way,

Bird's Eye

and spoke about many of his encounters so far. He had prepared himself so well for this spontaneous move that he seemed like a sponge absorbing the best of life. As we were talking I saw Matt once again out of the corner of my eye. He was making his way up the trail and had stopped to capture some icons in their new light. Without breaking the conversation, which by now was turning toward philosophy and personal religion (my wheelhouse), I reached for my tripod and swung it into position.

Christopher spoke better English than me did, but said, "What are you going for?" ending with a preposition.

I pointed below. "That's my son. He's recently into photography so we came to Zion and Bryce."

"Wow, what a place to start," he said while looking down toward Matt but obviously interrupted by the hoodoos in such grand morning light. Looking longer he said, "He really seems to be into it. Look how he concentrates on his subject, absorbing it all."

I smiled, absorbing it all.

Matt made it to the top, met Christopher, then shot around us as we all said goodbye. I redundantly

Mossy Mountain

added, "Enjoy your life" as Matt & I headed back downhill toward our car. We stopped several times along the rim to shoot just one more –so many, in fact, that Christopher eventually passed us with a lasting smile.

Ray was ready when we returned to Ruby's. We had a great breakfast, checked out, and headed for the hills. Well, actually that's an interesting difference between Zion and Bryce. Zion is all UP, and Bryce is all DOWN. So really we weren't heading for the "hills" of Zion until later in the day. For now we were headed down the lower end of Bryce Canyon to a place known as Mossy Cave, with a few quick stops along the rim to say goodbye. Photos 31 to 46 were taken during this time on the rim.

To reach Mossy Cave by car, you have to return to SR12 and make a right. After a couple of miles (I always forget to clock it), you'll see a small turnout parking area on the right. The cave was about a half-mile or so to the left on the trail, but our destination was to the right at the Y.

Paparazzi on the Bridge

On each visit to the park I stop to see if there is any water flowing down the man-made irrigation ditch constructed by early settlers, which would indicate that the waterfall ahead would have a good flow. Since the rains of last week washed out so much, according the news, I was hoping for the best. Ray & Matt stopped often along the way, and I charged ahead like an excited scout hoping to find water for the troops. They were scattered about the area by the time I returned with my disappointment dissipating. Matt, who seemed incapable of disappointment in this place, went to see for himself, shooting what stopped him along the way.

By the time he came back, Ray & I were on one of the bridges planning a shot --a combinations of shots really. Photo 54 has 4 of me and 3 each of Ray & Matt blended together and named, Paparazzi on a Bridge. We walked back to the car, and those guys were reluctant to leave the magic of the moment and continued trying to bring some of it with them on their memory cards. The paparazzi missed Matt shooting the curve of

Moving Moon

Scenic Route 12 moments before we climbed back in the car to drive back over it on our return to Zion.

The conversation was light, but the sun shone bright, on the way back to Zion. Those guys were shooting out the window and/or checking out their captures on the backs of their cameras as I squinted through stories of the fun we've had and still had in store. We never did take my suggestion on our way up to take a side trip down SR14 for the aspens on our way back, but we did stop at Tod's for sunglasses and energy. We also had to make one more stop on our way back to Zion. When we checked out of ZMR I was so involved with my conversation with Kevin McLaws that I absent-mindedly took the cabin key for a ride to Bryce Canyon with us.

Many times Barb and I would split up our trip by staying some nights at Zion Mountain Ranch and the last ones at the Best Western in Springdale, which is a bit closer to our Las Vegas flight when we have to leave. We usually take most of our evening meals at one of the many cool places in Springdale. We've been to many, and this time I noticed a few new ones in town and some old ones gone. Another new lodge was built, La Quinta, and we booked it online because the BW was full. Both are great places.

Ray took the time to settle in after we checked in, and Matt & I threw our stuff in our room and headed out for some wine for happy hour, which was just over an hour away. Since we hadn't eaten since breakfast, we decided for something quick before heading for the bridge for the traditional sunset shot. We stopped at the Zion Park Gift & Deli for supper takeouts our first full day here, and considered redoing the experience, but decided on a quick pizza instead at the Zion Pizza & Noodle Company. Need I say both places are great if I admit that every place in Springdale is special? It's quite possible that my opinions are influenced by the overwhelming feeling of... well, there is no word for it... (let's say) gratitude I have when there.

Our sunset shots were planned to be from the first bridge past Canyon Drive, and we arrived in plenty of time. There are usually a lot of photographers gathered to get their own shot of the icon image of a setting sun over The Watchman and The Virgin (a great movie title?), but this was not a great sunset to capture. The three of us stayed on the bridge longer than any of the others, but likely didn't get any better photos --and some of them were using cellphone cameras. Photos 56 thru 61 were taken there. The drab blue sky was replaced in the digital darkroom in all but the last two.

It was time to wind down for the night, and get up early for the sunrise show behind the museum. This may have been around the time when I learned through my new Facebook friend that he, Charles Riter, missed us at Bryce in the morning and was also at Mossy Cave a little before us.

Oh, well. Tomorrow is another day.