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Published: April 16th 2008
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Be Prepared
Boy Scout crossing the desert. Alturas, California makes a great staging point for a run up the middle of Oregon. A clear night produced morning temps of 24F at 0600. I enjoyed my morning coffee and yogurt watching Moto GP Free Practice 2 from Estoril, Portugal. By 0900 temps had risen to 38F, sunshine, and it was time to hit the road.
Gassing up in town before departure, I noticed coolant leaking from my bike. I was about to head out across 150 miles of southern Oregon's Great Basin Desert, so it was time for some investigation. In a small town like Alturas, the guys at NAPA will actually let you borrow a couple tools. Soon several body panels were removed from the ST1300, but the source of the leak was not found. After the bike was warmed up there was no further coolant loss. It appeared to have come from a hose fitting that was fairly tight, and as I had just changed the coolant before the trip, this may have been the culprit. The 24F overnight temps may have played a part in some hose material movement, but all appeared well. The coolant was down about a liter, so I presumed this was
On the Border
California is across the street. Dig that peace sign. a slow leak that had been underway for some time. I strapped a gallon of coolant and a newly purchased funnel on the bike, and made a late departure toward Oregon.
The border at New Pine Creek was only 39 miles up the road, and the Junk Shop made a handy spot to check the coolant. No further loss was noted, and after a quick photo of the shop it was back on the road.
The vast empty land of south central Oregon is notable for its sage steppe biome, volcanic buttes, and long vistas. I spotted just two antelope in the three-hour run to Burns. This was time to settle in with the tunes, and crack the throttle a bit to keep the average velocity up. No wide open throttle stuff, but most folks roll in this country. The mile-high plateau held snow in the shadows and lee gullies, and the spring thaw was still underway. It was a while before I would see green again. Sunny and temps in the high 50s, it was a bit of contrast the last time through. A year ago I was outrunning a snowstorm here, and a 30-knot south wind
Spring Thaw
Melting fast, but cold at night. had me gradually overtake a series of rain squalls until I turned left at Riley and sailed a rainy broad reach into Bend. This day I continued right at Riley and flew into Burns.
After a quick lunch and fuel in Burns, it was time to begin the fun stuff. This part of Oregon is my favorite riding country and I know it well. The first pass at Devine Ridge was reached in quick fashion, steady high speed sweepers running north and over the top to Seneca.
The fast straight run across the basin north of Seneca ends with a sudden 30mph right hander. Fortunately the heavily sanded corner was visible plenty early for extra velocity reduction. The entire run up and over the pass into Canyon City was covered in sand from the snow two days prior, and part of the run was made with four-way flashers ablaze as my speed was at times well below the posted corner warnings. By the final stretch into Canyon City, the curvy creekside section was clean, and the sphincter tone relaxed considerably.
Fuel and a snack in John Day, and it became apparent I was behind a daylight arrival
The Abert Rim
One of the highest fault scarps in the U.S. with 250 meter basalt cap. pace for camping at Maryhill State Park on the Columbia River. I would continue in that direction and see how the daylight held out. Heading west toward Mt. Vernon and Dayville brought the return of Spring, as the foothills of the Strawberry Mountains and the John Day River valley bottom was green with new foliage. Cattle herds fed on the last of winter hay and would soon be grazing the surrounding hills. The John Day River was in full spring flood.
By the time the route left the river to head up and over toward Fossil, the daylight was low enough to put me into deer patrol mode. With reduced speed and underbrush inspection, the roads was still a relaxed pleasure to ride. The General Mercantile in Fossil was open for ice and dinner groceries and soon salad and beer was strapped to the bike for the evening's fare.
Occasionally the telepathic sensors deploy. In the canyon south of Condon, I was pondering how my panic stopping method needed practice with my modified handlebar. Just at that moment a muley doe appeared on the shoulder. I practiced with much room to spare, and the doe bounded off. It
Lake Abert
Calm water and waterfowl resting on their migration. was a good moment.
The final run north to Condon held the last daylight, and rolling into town I headed for the Condon Motel. I was soon enjoying a beer and salad for dinner and an early retirement for the evening.
Distance ridden for the day: 386 miles. Coolant added after leaving Alturas: none.
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