Crater Lake Tour - Mini-Manasa Sarovaram of Tibet in America

---

3rd July, 2008.

On this first day of Ashadha - Ashadhamase prathama divase - the 3rd July, 2008, we started for a visit to Crater Lake which is at a distance of about 450 Miles from Fremont, CA. Another family, Mr.Sandeep Gandhi, a colleague of my son Sridhar, also participated in this tour. We, my wife(Girija), son(Sridhar), d-in-law(Anupama), and their two sons (kids of the ages of five years and three months old) started in our Honda Odyssey Van. Mr.Sandeep along with his wife Sheethal and two kids - one son aged 4 years and a daughter 2 years old - started in their Hyundai Ellantra Car, from their residence in Sunnyvale. The tour was planned on the eve of long week end, the 4th July, the Independance Day of USA falling on Friday. We started on Thursday, the 3rd July, afternoon at 3 PM. Both the families met on the way at a Rest Area on Freeway I-5 at 7 PM after travelling a distance of 145 miles. We could cover only 145 miles in the first four hours on account of heavy traffic on highways near the towns Danaville, Martinez, Benecici Bridge (across the bay), Fair Field, Vacarville etc.

After a brief rest for forty minutes, we again started at 7-40 PM. The entire way is covered with vast agricultural fields, fruit gardens and food processing factores amidst farm fields. There is plenty of water available for agricultural operations through Sacramento River, huge Lakes storing water from the rainfall on hills and mountains. It is amazing to witness that miles together, the canals were cemented, on the bottom and both sides preventing seepage and allowing free flow. All the fruit gardens are provided with water through drip irrigation and agricultural fields with sprinklers. In California, there will be sunlight in the evening upto 8-30 PM. On the way we have passed through Williams city, Redding , Mt.Shasta City, Dunsur, etc. We briefly stopped at 10-15 PM in Dunsur town for Dinner, which we carried along with us from home. Finally we reached Klamath Falls city at 12-15 AM. We stayed in KLAMATH FALLS CITY for the tour of Crater Lake and nearby places. We stayed in a lodge CIMARRON MOTOR INN, 3060, 6th Street, Klamath Falls, OREGON-97601 belonging to OXFORD group of Hotels. The room Tariff is $75 plus taxes for double room having two Queen Beds, Micro Oven, TV, VCR, and a Fridge. The Room is good and comfortable (www.oxford suites.com). We rested for the day, to start afresh for the tour to CRATER LAKE, the next morning.

4th July, 2008.

After finishing our breakfast in the Hotel Restaurant, we started for Crater Lake. The Lodge provides free breakfast. The Lodge rent is inclusive of breakfast. Bread, jam, butter, coffee, tea, orange and apple juices are available. We have to prepare ourselves, the bread-butter, bread-jam. coffee,etc. All ingredients and ovens are made available. We can eat as much breakfast as we relish. The distance from the Hotel to Crater Lake is about 80 miles. On the way we travelled by the side of Klamath Falls Lake . This is a very wide lake. We travelled more than 15 miles on the bank of the lake and reached Crater Lake by about 11-15 AM.

The Lake is circular in shape, On the brim of the lake a beautiful two-way road is laid. The rim drive is on a 33 miles road that encircles the Crater Lake. Usually, it is open in its entirety from early July to late October. It provides dramatic views of the lake's most interesting features as well as the jagged peaks, subalpine forests, and open meadows on the caldera's rim. Unfortunately, the rim drive in its entirety is not opened on the day of our visit. On enquiry, we are informed that it takes another 10 days for the entire circular road is opened for drive. The eastern side of the lake is still in snow and is not ready for motor-driving.

HOW THE LAKE IS FORMED?

The Crater Lake is formed on the Mount Mazama of the height of about 12000 feet. The climatic eruptions of Mount Mazama occurred 7700 years ago. Ash from these eruptions lies scattered over eight States in USA and three Canadian provinces; some 5000 sq.miles were covered with six inches of Mount Mazama's volacanic ash.

After several eruptions over the years, the Mazama magma chamber was emptied and the volcano collapsed, leaving a huge bowl shaped caldera. The later eruptions formed wizard Island, a cinder cone near the southwest shore. The high mountain was gone.

As the volcanic activity subsided water began to collect. For the past 5000 years the volcano has not stirred. Springs, snow, and rain began to fill the caldera. As the lake deepened and widened, evaporations and seepage balanced the incoming flow.

Crater Lake is fed by rain and snow - no rivers or streams - and is considered to be the cleanest large body of water in the world. The water is exceptional for its clarity and intense blue colour. Lake depth is 1943 feet, width 4.5 to 6 miles. The Lake has last frozen in 1949.

LOCAL LEGENDS AND MYTHICAL STORIES ON CRATER LAKE.

Crater Lake played a significant role in the cultures of native American Indian Tribes. In 1853 prospectors in search of gold found the Lake, and, as word spread, people began visiting from all over the world.

Explorer John Wesley Hillman first saw Crater Lake in 1853. The native Indians had known of it long before recorded history. According to Hillman, the lake was sacred to the native Indians, who refused to acknowledge its existence to outsiders. Gazing upon the waters, they thought to be fatal.

Klamath Indians' legends touch on the out natural origins of Crater Lake and the experiences of early visitors. One story tells of an Indian who journeyed into fearful depths of the Crater when it was still dry. On the Crater floor he saw fissures, mounds, huge gnarled rocks and a strange yellow substance that resembled gold.

LEGENDARY STORIES

Best known stories, perhaps, are legends describing war between Llao, Chief Spirit of Crater Lake and Skell, a Mighty Spirit of the Klamath Marsh country to the South. These legenday characters are immortalised at Llao rock, the massive gray lava flow across the lake and at Skell Head, the heartland where we are standing on.

WAR BETWEEN Ll AO and SKELL - Chiefs of Spirits.

Long long ago, two powerful spirits lived in the Crater Lake country, Llao (pronounced Lah- oh) and Skell. The spirit followers of Llao and Skell took the form of animals such as Deer, Fox and Dove, who often played together on top of Llao Rock. But eventually, the groups began to quarrel and ultimately war broken out.

The forces of Llao and Skell fought many battles. Skell was killed near the base of mountain and Llao's followers carried the heart of the Skell upto the Llao Rock for celebration. However, Skell's clever followers stole the heart and restored it to the body, bringing Skell back to life.

During the last great battle Llao was killed. Skell ordered that the body be cut up and thrown into the lake to be devoured by cracto fish and other monsters. The water creatures were loyal to Llao but Skell tricked them by shouting 'here are Skell's arms'; as he tossed the arms into the water. Immediately the creatures gobbled them up. In the same manner Lla's legs were drowned. But when Skell flunged Llah's head into the lake, the water creatures recognised their Master and would not touch it.

VISTA POINTS ON RIM DRIVE

There are several vista points on the rim drive. We first stopped at a vista point called Discovery Point ' and from there proceeded to 'Watch Tower'. This is nearer to the Wizard Island. Wizard Island is the result of most striking evidence of post collapsed volcanic activity. The small volcano in front of us (standing at the Watch Tower) is the Wizard Island. Its symmetrical cone was forced by a fountain of cinders which erupted from the Cal Dera floor allowing melting snow and rain to accumulate. From here we can witness the third highest peak in the area which is called Watchman Peak at a height of 8013 feet. At a distance, we can see the highest peak 'HILLMAN PEAK (8151 FEET) From there we slowly proceeded to a picnic point near Llao Rock vista point, on the way stopping at North Junction vista point. Llao Rock is the second highest peak in the area at a height of 8049 feet. We had leisurely finished our lunch at this point. We have packed our lunch in the Hotel itself preparing the same in our Rooms with the ingredients brought along with us. We had a beautiful Indian lunch on the rim of the Crater Lake consisting of white rice with gongura chutney, prepared by my d-i-law and methi chapatis with Kanda Lasuna masala powder, curd, brought by Mrs.Seethal Gandhi.

After a brief rest, we proceeded to the Vista point at Cleetwood Cove Trail. A tour on boat in the Crater Lake starts from this point. One has to go down on a rough path, a distance of 1.1 miles about 700 feet below to reach the landing. A steep trek. On the day of our visit the boat tour in the Lake has not yet been commenced. Tourists are going down upto the landing point to touch the beautiful cold blue waters and to enjoy the breeze coming over Crater Lake waters. The Notice Board at the beginning of the trail warns, the path is very rough, about 700 feet deep and one has to carry drinking water, etc., and not for old and weak persons having heart and breathing troubles. It is said that one can also swim in the lake but the water is very cold and most swimmers cannot stay for more than a few seconds. I along with my son Sridhar and grandson and Mr.Sandeep Gandhi along with his wife Sheethal and children ventured to trek a distance of about 200 feet, to have a closer view of the lake and after spending a few minutes returned to the brim.

From there we proceeded to Pallsade Point, to have the view from another angle. Our Rim Drive ended at this point as the East Rim Drive was not yet opened by the Crater Lake Authorities. Without completing the full Drive we returned to the starting point and from there to Klamath Falls City - our temporary base of camping.

SCIENTIFIC EXPLANATION FOR THE BLUE WATERS OF THE LAKE

Light gets absorbed colour by colour as it passes through clear water. First the reds go, then orange, yellow and green. Last to be absorbed are the blues. Only the deepest blue gets scattered back to the surface where you see it as the colour of the water. The water is of course no more blue than the sky is blue.

WHO GAVE THE NAME 'CRATER LAKE'

"CRATER LAKE" was named in 1869 by James Sutton, editor of the Oregon Sentinel of Jacksonville, Oregon, who along with a part of explorers lowered a boat over the cliff to the shore of the lake, rowed across to Wizard Island, and climbed to its summit. They were the first known people to have explored the Lake.

By 5-00 PM we returned to our Lodge in Klamath Falls and rested for the day.

5th July,2008.

After finishing breakfast, we started for visiting Tule Lake and Lava Beds. Tule Lake is situated at a distance of 5 miles from Tule Lake town. It is a mini-Kolleru lake situated in the State of Andhra Pradesh in India. From Klamath Falls, the Tule Lake town is about 31 Miles. This small town is situated in California State on its northern border. Tule Lake is the seat of National Wild Life for birds. We stopped at the Refuge Headquarters and Visitor Centre at a distance of 5 miles west of Tule Lake town. In this Visitor Centre, Refuge Wildlife are colourfully described by exhibits, and information regarding wildlife viewing opportunities, road conditions, upcoming events, and regulations is available. We had taken photos standing beside the exhibits and I also purchased a T-shirt with a logo of a wild life bird.

Tule lake Refuge encompasses about 39,116 acres of open water and crop lands. Waste grain, alfalpa, potatoes are grown in the crop lands. We proceeded on gravel road on the bed of the lake witnessing the water-birds such as ducks, water-fowls, etc. The distance covered is about 10 miles and it took about one and half hours. From here,we proceeded to witness Lava Beds.

On the way to Lava Beds, there is a picnic spot at a place called Captain Jacks strong hold. Captain Jacks is the leader of Modoc Indians, the native tribe of the area. The American settlors driven out the native Indian Tribes and made them surrender and confine to reserve areas. The leader of the Tribes Capt. Jacks initially surrendered in 1864 and again rebelled in1867. He was captured alive with about 50 soldiers of his tribe and later he along with another two leaders were hanged. This is the place where a battle has taken place between the American Settlors and the Modoc Indian native tribesmen. During the war the Modoc Indian Tribesmen took refuge in Lava Beds Caves.

At this picnic spot, we had our lunch with rice pulihora and curd. The pulihora was prepared in the morning in our room at Lodge and packed for lunch. After finishing lunch, we proceeded to Lava Beds Caves at a distance of about 10 miles.

Before reaching the Visitor Centre of Lava Beds Caves, we visited Merril Cave on the way. This is said to be of a length of 650 feet. It is open only from one side. The peculiarity of one-side caves is that they are all very cold and air conditioned. The reason is said to be that in winter when cold air enters the cave, for want of free circulation, the cold air gets trapped inside and creates an year round ice floor.

HOW THEY ARE FORMED?

The formation of the Lava Beds Caves, numbering more than 300 were the result of Northern California's Mammoth Crater volcanic activity creating Cinder Cones, spatter cones. One of the most striking volcanic features of Lava Beds is the lava tube caves. Lava is hot when it pours from a Volcano- about 1800 degrees F. The outer edges and surface of the flow cool rapidly and begin to harden. The outside shell acts as insulating material while the rest of the flow beneath it remains hot and fast moving. The flow continues like a river that keeps on flowing even though the surface has frozen over. When the eruption stops and the river of lava drains, a tunnel or tube - the outer shell is left. Lava tubes can lie atop one another, the result of subsequent flows. Many of the tubes here were formed about 30000 years ago after an eruption of Mammoth Crater on the southern boundary.

WHO FOUND THESE CAVES?

Many of the caves were first explored and named by J.D.Howard, a local miller. The names he painted on the walls are still visible in most of the caves. In many of the caves, trails have been laid out and ladders installed to make access easy to the tourists.

VISITORS CENTRE

After vising Merril Cave on the way, we reached Visitors Centre. Here route maps to visit the caves are provided. Pamphlets with instructions to visit caves and battery lights (free of any charges) are provided to each visitor, which are to be returned at the end of the visit.

The caves have been divided into three categories - (1) Least challenging - These caves have relatively high ceilings and smooth floors or trails - a good choice for groups with children, or any one who wants a less strenuous experience. (2) Moderately challenging caves - These caves may involve some stooping through low sections, and/or have areas of rough floor to negotiate. Additionl protective gear is necesary for the more difficult spots. And (3) Most challenging caves - These caves have some portions that require duck walking or crawling. Helmets, kneepads, and gloves are a must in these areas to protect oneselves from sharp lava projections. Other sections may be easier. These caves are also more complicated in some places.

We have taken Battery Lights from the Visitor Centre and proceeded to visit some of the caves. We have seen most of the caves from outside and not ventured into them. As a sample, we entered Upper Sentinel cave for a few feet to imagine about the formation of other caves and then returned to Visitor Centre to visit the Mushpot cave nearer to Visitor Centre. This cave is well developed with lights and interpretive signs explaining the formations. Actually this cave is recommended as an introductory cave. But, we have visited this at the end.

We marvelled at the natural formations left providing clues to imagine the great devastation that had taken place thousands of years ago of volanic eruptions.

We departed Lava Beds Caves at 5-45 PM and reached our Lodge at Klamath Falls by about 7 PM and rested for the day.

6th July, 2008 - Sunday.

We started our return journey at 8-45 AM after finishing our breakfast. Mrs.Sheetal prepared and packed kichidi for our lunch. We also planned to break our journey at Shasta Dam and Lake Shasta Caverns on the way.

LAKE SHASTHA CAVERNS - SIMILAR TO BURRA CAVES IN ANDHRA PRADESH, INDIA.

We reached the Visitors Centre of Lake Shastha Caverns by 10-45 AM covering a distance of 130 miles from Klamath Falls. The Visitor Centre is situated in a valley at a distance of about 5 miles from the Highway. At the Visitors Centre, we have to purchase tickets for crossing the Lake Shastha and for visiting the Shastha Caverns. It is $20 per person. A Bus takes the visitors to the edge of the lake to board a Lanch to reach the other side. A 15 minute catamaran cruise across Lake Shasta's blue waters takes the visitors to the other side. Once ashore a comfortable 30 passenger bus will carry the visitors upto the mountain side, more than 800 feet above the lake. This picturesque drive to the cave entrance affords a constantly changing panorama of spectacular mountain and lake scenery.

High above the Lake Shastha, the underground adventure begins. A guide leads the busful of persons to the adventurous discovery of history and geology of the natural wonder of Shastha Caverns.

The cave is decorated with multi coloured fluted columns, stone draperies stalactites and stalagranites studded with crystals, milky white flowstone deposits and other unusual graceful forms. Geologists compare the beauty of Shasta Caverns favourable to that of any other limestone and marble caves in the world. This is similar to Borra Caves in Visakhapatnam District in India. But, bigger in volume and well maintained.

HISTORY AND DISCOVERY OF THE CAVES

Lore of the Wintu Indian tribe suggests the caverns have been known since antiquity. The first recorded white explorer was James A. Richardson, a federal fisheries employee. His claim of discovery is still clearly legible on the wall when he wrote it that day - November 3, 1878 with carbide from his miner's lamp. Until 1964, the caverns were said to have been seen by only a handful of hardy cavers who inched their way through steep restricted fissures to view its startling formations. Then a tunnel was driven to enable visitors to enter the services of connected chambers from a lower level.

Now the visit to the caverns was made more comfortable, by providing lights, steps to climb and get down within the cave. All in all about 400 steps are there in the cave and finally emerge on the other side of the mountain from where we have to get down through 250 narrow steps. There the bus is ready to take us to the edge of the lake where the Lanch is awaiting us. We reached the Visitors Centre at about 2-30 PM and had our lunch under a tree where wooden benches and tables were provided. We had purchased a small momento from the Visitors Centre and started our onward journey to Fremont at 3-20 PM and reached our Home by 8-15 PM.

In this four days trip covering a to and fro distance of 1066 miles, we had a pleasant experience of visiting a Lake formed at a height of 8000 feet on account of volcanic activity,another Lake which is a visiting and nesting place for birds, Caves formed out of Lava Beds and a natural formation of caverns of Limestone. Definitely, visiting various places is a true education and enlightenment.

(Details are on the basis of information collected from pamphlets at the Visitors Centres).

RAGHAVARAO DUGGIRALA
Fremonnt, CA, Dt.08-08-08.

---