Old Santa Fe Trail


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North America » United States » New Mexico » Santa Fe
March 20th 2007
Published: March 20th 2007
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San Miguel Mission (built between 1610 and 1628)
We poke around Durango in the morning. Find a squished penny machine at the train depot—our first one of the trip! There’s a cool historic hotel right downtown called the Strater. Durango reminds me a little of Nelson, British Columbia minus the liberal atmosphere and open pot smoking.

We journey through the incredible northern New Mexico landscape towards Santa Fe. The dry shrubby landscape gives way to red rocks and mesas. I see why Georgia O’Keeffe was so inspired by the area. In Santa Fe, we stay at the El Rey Inn right on old Route 66. It’s a fantastic 1936 motor court motel that retains much of its original character and is clean and tidy (not skanky like so many old highway motels tend to be). Although there was a scary looking he/she/man/woman/shim staying in the room next to us. Cathy scored when her magic Google fingers found the place.

This is my first visit to Santa Fe and although it’s a lovely place, I’m disappointed by what seems to be a lack of authenticity. I appreciate its history and its old adobe architecture but I’m surprised by how strangely unreal it feels. Everything seemed too clean
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The Pink Adobe Restaurant (since 1944)
and perfect. There’s also little variation in architecture and color palette. I can see why the buildings are regulated so tightly but at the same time, the city loses some of its inherent character that way. The food was fantastic however. We have a delish dinner at the classic Pink Adobe (great guacamole—I can live on guac alone) and a fab lunch at La Plazuela in La Fonda (I chose it for its center courtyard restaurant space because it reminds me of Mexico). The carnitas tacos were most excellent—it’s difficult to find great carnitas and I’m in constant search for it. My fave is still La Luz del Dia in Los Angeles. La Fonda is a beautiful historic hotel—I’m a sucker for the Mexican tilework inside (even in the women’s restroom). I would like to come back to Santa Fe to spend time in the museums and make a trip up to Abiquiu and Ghost Ranch.



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Santa Fe

St. Francis Cathedral (1850s)
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Santa Fe

La Fonda Hotel tower.
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Santa Fe

La Plazuela Restaurant in the La Fonda Hotel. Beautiful courtyard.
Carnitas! Carnitas!
Carnitas!

Mmm...carnitas. Nothing like deep-fried pork.
El Rey Inn, Santa FeEl Rey Inn, Santa Fe
El Rey Inn, Santa Fe

Fantabulous 1936 motor court we stayed in.
El Rey Inn, Santa FeEl Rey Inn, Santa Fe
El Rey Inn, Santa Fe

Our room at the El Rey
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El Rey Inn, Santa Fe

El Rey bathroom. When was the last time you saw the toilet seat strap? It's clean! Dig the cool bathroom floor tile.
El Rey Inn, Santa FeEl Rey Inn, Santa Fe
El Rey Inn, Santa Fe

El Rey bathroom. Retro cool without trying to be.


27th March 2007

What are those crazy chicks doing?
Probably best you kept on movin' quickly outta Santa Fe. Taking photos of your dinner and your toilet seat has to have raised suspicion amongst the locals. I don't want your road trip to make the front page of USA Today. Let's reserve that honor for that 400lb guy who tried to walk across America, sleeping under Interstate overpasses to further test his resolve.

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