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Published: October 1st 2014
I decided to use I-15 for the drive from Pocatello ID to Butte MT. Even without traffic lights and reduced speed zones, the drive was almost 4 hours per MapQuest so that calculates to 6 hours per PokiemanLarry. Most of the route is designated by Rand McNally as scenic and much of it is exactly that. I guess I’m getting spoiled by frequent exposure to phenomenally scenic routes. Perhaps I should refrain from elective scenic drives – I don’t think so!
I arrived mid afternoon at the 2 Bar Lazy H RV Campgrounds (I didn’t ask) and was given a space in the rear of the park, but I had an EXCEPTIONAL view. The space was small and required three inches of shimming to level the Pilgrim, but being in the rear of the park provided a buffer from the noise of the Interstate. After set-up, I drove into Butte to take a familiarization drive and to look for an interesting dining locale. I happened on Sparky's Garage Bar & Grill Barbecue where I got the “Garage Combo” – a third a rack of ribs plus a choice of pulled pork, beef brisket, catfish, BBQ chicken or sausage. I opted
The Trolley Is Modern And Comfortable
Butte Visitor Center And Trolley Tour - Butte MTfor the sausage, and took home some of the ribs. That was a very good meal!
Those who follow my blog know that I am a fan of taking a trolley tour of a new destination as a way to familiarize myself with the history and culture of a community, so Thursday found me headed for the Butte Visitor Center and the Butte Trolley Tour. The two–hour tour took the group through the Butte National Landmark Historic District while the entertaining driver related funny, colorful historical anecdotes appropriately intermingled with some of the more somber, appalling yet undeniable, stories from Butte’s past. He related the evolution of Butte’s economic drivers – initially silver and gold but later, with the increase in the use of electricity, copper.
In the 19th and 20th centuries, the driver told us, Butte experienced every phase of development common to a mining town – from fledgling camp to growing boomtown to mature city and, finally, to a center for historic preservation and environmental cleanup. Unlike most mining towns, however, Butte was not born NEAR the mining operations but developed ABOVE the mines. The urban landscape includes reminders of those long since abandoned mining operations
positioned within today’s residential and commercial areas.
Butte, often referred to as "the Richest Hill on Earth," attracted workers from the United Kingdom, Ireland, Wales, Lebanon, Canada, Finland, Austria, Serbia, Italy, China, Syria, Croatia, Montenegro, Mexico and all areas of the U.S. As in many much larger cities, ethnic enclaves developed resulting in an architectural diversity found in few cities its size (in Butte only one or two city blocks) and traditional customs, including cuisine, prospered and spread to the other communities. Two foods evolved as the most popular among the miners and became emblematic of Butte – the boneless pork chop sandwich and the pasty (pronounced PASS'-tee and not PASTE-tee). I’ll have more about both culinary delights in due course.
Not to miss out on all this prosperity, big business came to Butte as well. Standard Oil Company purchased numerous mines and smelters and, in 1899, formed a conglomerate called the Amalgmated Copper Mining Company which soon became the Anaconda Mining Company – more simply known to the locals as "The Company." Anaconda Mining Company got so big that by the late 1920’s it owned virtually every mine in Butte and was the fourth largest company in
Remnants Of The Ethnic Neighborhoods Remain
Butte Visitor Center And Trolley Tour - Butte MT the world. Despite the dominance of the “The Company,” Butte never was a company town, and, indeed, was known as "the Gibraltar of Unionism." Its citizenry, primarily men in the early days, prided itself on an ethos of rough-and-tumble individualism. As such, unions were an integral part of Butte’s history. By 1886, 34 separate unions represented nearly all of the 6,000 workers around Butte. Even the sheep shearers and the newspaper delivery boys were organized.
Perhaps not coincidentally, many problems appeared in the form of management-labor disputes. Numerous strikes on behalf of labor and strike-breaker actions taken by “The Company” began to play out. These confrontations between labor and management led to the shooting death of several miners by company security forces. The driver told us Frank Little, an American labor leader, arrived in Butte in early July 1917 to lead a miners' strike against "The Company." In the early hours of August 1, six masked men broke into Little's hotel room. Little was beaten and taken to the edge of town where he was lynched from a railroad trestle. A note with the words "First and last warning" was pinned to his chest, along with the initials of
other union leaders. It was widely believed that Pinkerton agents were involved, but no serious attempt was made by the police to apprehend Little's murderers. His funeral procession was followed by thousands as he was laid to rest in Butte's Mountain View Cemetery.
Friction between "The Company" and the unions continued after Little’s death. In 1920, company mine guards gunned down strikers in the Anaconda Road Massacre. Seventeen were shot in the back as they tried to flee, and one man died. Despite the friction, prosperity continued in Butte up to the 1950s when the declining grade of ore and competition from other mines led the Anaconda Copper Company to switch its focus from underground mining to open pit mining. Thus, instead of tunneling down for the copper, entire hillsides were simply removed. This marked the beginning of the end for the boom times in Butte.
The only disembarking stop on the trolley tour is at the Berkeley Pit Viewing Stand. The Berkeley Pit, which opened in 1955, was at one time the largest truck-operated open pit copper mine in the United States but came at the cost of thousands of homes that were destroyed. The Berkeley pit
grew with time until it bordered the Columbia Gardens, a large fairground established by Montana businessman William A. Clark – one of the three "Copper Kings" of the 19th century. After the Gardens mysteriously caught fire and burned to the ground in November 1973, the pit was expanded into the site. In 1977, ARCO (Atlantic Richfield Company) purchased Anaconda Mining, and only three years later started shutting down the mines due to lower metal prices. In 1982, all mining in the Berkeley Pit was suspended although ARCO is still paying for the Superfund Cleanup.
When mining shut down at the Berkeley pit, water pumps in nearby mines were also shut down resulting in the pit filling with highly acidic water laced with toxic heavy metals. Only two years later, the pit was classified as an environmental hazard site and a Superfund site. Meanwhile, the acidic water continued to rise. The situation gained national attention after at least 342 migrating geese chose the pit lake as a resting place – and died. Today, a water treatment facility has been built that processes and purifies 7.5 million gallons of toxic water per day. Each day, 7.5 million gallons of fresh water
flow into the pit and become toxic! Net sum gain – zero. Berkeley Pit is the largest pit lake in the United States and is the most costly part of the country's largest Superfund site.
Since the end of the copper boom, Butte has looked for ways to diversify its economy and provide employment. Ironically, environmental cleanup at the Berkeley Pit has employed hundreds of people, and the pit is one of the city's biggest tourist attractions. The trolley tour continued with a stop at one of the headframes while the driver gave a brief explanation of the features and operation of the “elevator.” He told us that over a dozen headframes still dot the city landscape and that some of those structures are illuminated at night to commemorate the city's copper mining heritage.
Being a burgeoning city of mostly men at the turn of the century, saloons and bordellos were commonplace, according to the driver. The Dumas Brothel was built during the 1890s and consisted of 42 rooms – each with a distinct layout and purpose. The rooms range from posh suites and grand parlors to bare-bone "cribs" – tiny rooms with space only for a bed
and few amenities. Clandestine tunnels, which allowed clients and working girls to escape in the event of a police raid, connect the “Red-Light District” to Butte's business corridor. The Dumas Brothel operated illegally for 92 years from 1890 to 1982, making it America's longest running house of "ill repute." In 1943, the tunnels and underground cribs were sealed off, but in the 1970's those features were unsealed and the Dumas was listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Today, tours of the Dumas (which I learned of late in my visit) are available.
One of the neat things in Butte is the abundance of “ghost signs.” Ghost signs are old signs painted on the side of a building – a cheap version of a billboard. Most of the advertised businesses are long-gone, yet the signs remain. Since many of these signs are over 70 years old they add a certain mystique and intrigue to downtown Butte. I was delighted to learn that Butte is attempting to preserve its ghost signs.
The driver also noted another hallmark of Butte is the phrase, "Tap 'er light." This admonition was passed to a miner who was to “tap” the dowel
The Homes Of Butte’s Wealthy Are Quite Ornate
Butte Visitor Center And Trolley Tour - Butte MT used to pack dynamite into the bottom of a drilled hole before blasting. The comment later evolved into a greeting when they passed each other going to and from the mine at shift change. “Tap ‘er light” was an encouraging way of saying “Have a good shift.” Today, the phrase is heard among Butte’s old-timers as commonly as, “Have a good day.”
One central figure in Butte’s colorful history is native son Evel Knievel. For those of you who are under 40 or who are over 40 and are siblings of the bubble boy, Robert Craig Knievel was an American daredevil who attempted more than 75 ramp-to-ramp motorcycle jumps between 1965 and 1980. In 1974, a jump across Snake River Canyon in a steam-powered rocket failed. In his career, he suffered more than 433 bone fractures and earned an entry in the Guinness Book of World Records as the survivor of "most bones broken in a lifetime". Arguably, he was one of the greatest American icons of the 1970s and one of the greatest showmen of all times. Knievel was inducted into the Motorcycle Hall of Fame in 1999 and is honored in the Smithsonian as “America’s Legendary Daredevil.”
He died of pulmonary disease on November 30, 2007 in Clearwater FL at the age of 69 and is buried in Mountain View Cemetery in Butte. According to the driver, his tombstone is (as was his life) quite a spectacle. Evel Knievel Days is held on the last weekend of July.
The Butte Trolley Tour is, in my opinion, an absolute must for those who have not read my blog and, therefore, already know almost everything there is to know about Butte! Sorry, but I get hunt ‘n peck happy when I get excited about something, and I’m definitely excited about Butte. What a neat city!
Friday, September 9, 2014 found me heading south on I-15 for what else but a scenic drive. This scenic drive, Big Sheep Creek National Back Country Byway, is not part of the Rand McNally list but was included by the State of Montana. I chose to follow the byway from south to north (yep, so the sun would not be in my face nor the camera lens at midday), made a quick stop in Dillon for breakfast and continued south to the town of Dell. This part is a little tricky. From
the Dell exit, turn south on the frontage road along I-15 and proceed to Big Sheep Creek Road. I didn’t (I had failed to meticulously complete my preparation) and proceeded west a couple miles before bearing south. The route I took was unremarkable, went further west than necessary, veered back to the southeast and ended up being a few miles longer. No harm, no foul!
Despite the fact that there are some issues, I am glad I partook. First, the initial and final “thirds” of my itinerary are scenic jewels and the roadway is great but the middle was quite ho-hum. Second, I might have missed a sign near the I-15 interchange, but the middle portion of the route is POORLY MARKED. The map on my GPS was helpful but not a panacea. Third, the compass in my truck was very helpful and bringing one is highly recommended. (That piece of equipment should be taken on any “off the beaten path” adventure.) For the most part, when in doubt follow the road MORE travelled! That advice worked for me except in one instance.
When I reached a bifurcation with a sign displaying SIX left or right directional choices
Was I About To Be Mugged?
Loop from Dell MT to Wise River MT (three left and three right so that was no help either), the Big Sheep Creek National Back Country Byway was not included. Shame on whomever! The road slightly more travelled veered left. I followed the road for about 4-5 miles on a course mostly west and southwest. Knowing I should essentially be heading north something, I backtracked, took the right (yes, right-hand and correct) fork and proceeded. Shortly, my GPS map repopulated with the “Big Sheep Creek Road” label.
The southern portion of the Big Sheep Creek National Back Country Byway is well manicured gravel, serpentines through a canyon along Big Sheep Creek and is very scenic. Aside, the sign noted in the paragraph above would be a great place for the driver of the “sedan with the new car smell” to turn around. The middle portion of the route is not much more than a first-class cow path in places and is not really scenic until near the northern end of the middle “third” of the byway. The northern portion of the route is asphalt, primarily lies within the national forest and quite quickly transitions to again embrace the term scenic.
My suggestion for those with minimal
time is to enjoy to southern leg of the byway as a great one-hour out-and-back diversion off I-15 from Dell MT or, for those travelling to Big Hole National Battlefield or to Bannack State Park, to consider incorporating Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway between MT 43 and MT 278 into the itinerary. Regardless of the quantity of the scenic byway you choose, it is worthwhile, and the drive from Wise River back to I-15 is very nice as well.
After returning to Butte, I opted to take advantage of one of the trolley driver’s recommendations and dine on a pork chop sandwich especially prepared for me at the Freeway Tavern. According to an Internet resource, Kathi Faroni says, "We call it the Wop Chop because we're Italian!" The trolley driver told me Evel Kneivel was a regular and, indeed, reminders of the daredevil adorn the walls and the celing. I usually dine at the bar when possible so a conversation with a local, whether bartender or patron, is an option. I struck up a conversation with a local patron who had known Kneivel for many years and has watched his son, Robby Kneivel, evolve into a showman in his own
The Mineral Room Is Interesting
World Museum of Mining – Butte MT right. The bottom line is that both are/were very nice people with very different personalities. Makes sense to me! Oh, by the way – I got a very tasty sandwich.
Saturday, September 6, 2014 found me where school groups might be on a weekday. The World Museum of Mining was founded in 1963 to preserve the history of Butte and its mining and cultural heritage and is one of the few museums in the world located on an actual mine yard – the Orphan Girl Mine. Inside the visitor center/museum/gift shop, many of the displays initially appear inapplicable to mining but do represent the cultural and occupational diversity found in Butte’s mining heyday.
The room containing the Samie Keith Doll & Dollhouse Exhibit is a perfect example of seemingly irrelevant artifacts but illustrate the hobbies of some of the miners and their families. The detail seen in the furniture, appliances and everyday items is incredible. The mineral and gem room contains an interesting array of relevant specimens; whereas, the cobbler’s equipment and artifacts from the period seem irrelevant but performed essential functions for the mining community.
Outside, Hell Roarin' Gulch consists of more than 50 structures (some
original, some relocated and some replicas) complete with an outstanding collection of artifacts. The displays focus on the culture and ethnic history of an 1880′s to 1920′s mining town and provide a look at the history of mining technology. Standing sentinel over Hell Roarin' Gulch is the 100-foot headframe of the Orphan Girl Mine. At the appointed time, I found my way to the appointed place and began the guided tour of the attraction.
The tour begins with a very interesting explanation of the daily activities in Hell Roarin' Gulch as well as in Orphan Girl. Next, the group is fitted with tool belt, hardhat, battery pack and headlamp. The access doors were unlocked, and we began the 65-foot walk into the bowels of the 2700-foot Orphan Girl Mine. Once the doors closed and ambient light was eliminated, only the light generated by our headlamps prevented total darkness.
The tour guide explained that the horizontal access shaft was constructed by students of Montana State School of Mines and that Orphan Girl originally served as a tourist attraction as well as a classroom. In time, another abandoned mine was chosen for the academic activities and another horizontal shaft was
constructed. The tour guided pointed out numerous pieces of period equipment and explained the function of each as well as explained the activities that occurred in the mine. One was the role of mules in the mine.
Once the ore-rich rock had been blasted loose, it was loaded into carts and pulled to the shaft elevator by men. That laborious process generated the notion of using mules to pull the ore cars; but, alas, how would one get the mules into the mine? The cages that took the men down into the mine were small, and it was difficult to cram six men into the cage for the journey to the bottom of the shaft. Six men, irrespective of stature, went into the cage!
Getting the mules into the mine would prove difficult. The mule was first blindfolded so it would not get spooked. Its legs were bound in a leather truss so the animal could not move. The mule would then be set on its rear and stuffed into the cage so it could be lowered to its destination. By now, the folks from the SPCA should be having grand mal seizures! It took a cage and
a few heavy cables to get the mule down into the bottom of the mine. The mule would give a few wild kicks and then settle down to the quiet and safety of the mine. Once the mule was inside the mine it would stay there pulling the ore cars and helping out until the day it died. The mules were only taken out of the mine if they were sick, injured, or if there was a strike.
Every night the mule skinner made sure they each had a tub of ice water to drink and would scrub the mules’ hooves with soap and water to keep the copper water from ruining the animals’ hooves. The old timers said all the mules were good union members: 1) At the end of the eight-hour shift the mules would quit working; 2) the animals could count. Six cars formed a train. Each car contained one ton of ore. When another car was added, the four legged workers refused to budge an inch; 3) some of the mules became tobacco chewers. They liked the sweetness and expected a reward for a job well done.
A mule’s life span in the mines
was from five to ten years. One mule named Emma lived eighteen years in the mine. She was taken out of service, was removed from the mine and was retired to a mule ranch where she spent the rest of her life. Mules were used in the mines until about 1920 when electricity and electric “locomotives” were introduced. The World Museum of Mining experience gives the visitor a real feeling for what mining was all about at the turn of the century. I found it very interesting and place it on my highly recommended list.
Monday, September 8, 2014 found me driving to Deer Lodge MT for a laundry list of reasons. The small town hosts five museums which, standing alone, probably couldn’t survive; but, amalgamated, seem to be doing okay. One two-day ticket accesses all five facilities. The first museum I visited was the Old Montana Prison Museum which was built by inmate labor and was home to at least one member of Butch Cassidy's "Wild Bunch." The turn-of-the-century fortress incarcerated its first occupant on July 2, 1871 and is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
A well done, self-guided tour leads the visitor
A Building Behind A Wall
Old Montana Prison Museum - Deer Lodge MT through the complex. Convict labor built large portions of the prison compound, and fashioned 1.2 million bricks for use in the original cell house, quarried stone and hauled it to the site, cut the timbers for the lumber and dug the lime for use in the cement. Stone turrets that are reminiscent of medieval times are set in each corner of “The Wall.” The tour goes through maximum security, the women’ prison, the dining room and theater, the hospital, recreation areas and administrative offices. Exhibits interpret prison life, tell the story of the 1959 riot, display methods of smuggling contraband and showcase weapons crafted by the inmates as well as equipment used by the guards. One particularly interesting artifact is a pair of shoes with concrete soles that weigh 20 pounds each and were ordered to be worn by convicts thought to be escape risks. The old, overcrowded prison was closed in 1979.
On site is the Montana Auto Museum. What can I say? It’s a very nice car museum. There are some artifacts – like a Thermador Car Cooler (or swamp cooler in my neck of the woods) – I had not seen before. There is probably the
largest collection of restored mid-50s Chevys known to mankind. There are some unique specimens like a 1974 Citi Car and a 1967 Amphicar both of which I probably have seen but somehow just plain can’t pull from the hard drive into the RAM.
Having originally planned to visit all five museums on a weekend day and falling victim to an impulsive change of plans, I found the other three museums closed on Mondays. Perhaps I’ll drive over from Helena. So far, I’ll give the museum group a lukewarm recommendation.
With the time windfall at hand, I decided to take the Pintler Veterans' Memorial Scenic Highway back to Butte. I had planned to take this drive but not on this particular day. I headed west from Deer Lodge on I-90 and exited onto MT 1 south at Drummond MT. The drive has moments that definitely are scenic, but a dose of “mundane Montana” is thrown in for good measure. I will say the route is a great alternative to the interstate for those seeking a break from the monotony of a controlled access highway. For those new to this area, I cannot say MT 1 is significantly more scenic
One Cannot Get A Close Look At “The Stack”
Anaconda Smoke Stack State Park - Anaconda MT than I-90. You pick ‘em!
I had two attractions on the list for Tuesday, September 9, 2014 and decided to take scenic routes that would have me return to Anaconda MT. I decided as long as I was going through the zip code, I might as well stop at Anaconda Smoke Stack State Park. Anaconda was chosen for the smelter that purified the copper ore mined in Butte because of much better water availability in Anaconda.
Construction of the stack was completed by the Alphons Custodis Chimney Construction Company of New York on May 5, 1919. At the time it was built, it was the tallest masonry, brickwork structure and chimney of any kind in the world and it remains the world's tallest and possibly largest free standing masonry structure. The stack rests on a concrete foundation and measures 585 feet high with an inside diameter of 75 feet at the bottom and 60 feet at the top. The wall thickness ranges from six feet at the bottom to two feet at the top.
On September 29, 1980, the Anaconda Mining Company announced the indefinite suspension of smelting in Anaconda. Soon thereafter, the company announced the suspension
would become a closure and that the smelter would be demolished. “The Stack” is a well known landmark in western Montana, and the citizens of Anaconda organized and “Anacondas to Preserve the Stack” was born. In 1986, “The Stack” was designated a state park.
There is no access to the landmark. The Anaconda Smoke Stack State Park is a viewing area near Anaconda with placards and a graphic representation of the dimensions of the stack. Barring some sort of personal connection to the facility, I would be hard-pressed to say the park is worthy of anything more than a “stop for five minutes if you are passing directly in front of the park entrance” attraction.
My next stop was Big Hole National Battlefield in Wisdom MT. I chose to take the road less travelled – MT 569. The route definitely is scenic but the road surface leaves something to be desired and is quite narrow in places. Indeed, there is no centerline for a good portion of the highway. The road is fine for a car or a truck, but I would be hesitant if I were pulling the Pilgrim or driving a motorhome. MT 43, on the
Quite A Tribute To The Community’s Heritage
Anaconda Smoke Stack State Park - Anaconda MT other hand, is a great road and is scenic as well.
Big Hole National Battlefield was made a part of Nez Perce National Historical Park in 1992. That park consists of 38 separate locations in five different states. The Nez Perce homeland territory was in Oregon, Washington and Idaho. In 1873, Chief Joseph negotiated with the federal government to ensure his people could stay on their land in the Wallowa Valley as stipulated in the 1855 and 1863 land treaties with the U.S. government.
In a reversal of policy in 1877, General Oliver O. Howard threatened to attack if the Indians did not relocate to an Idaho reservation that was only a small fraction of their original territory. Chief Joseph reluctantly agreed. As they began their journey to Idaho, Chief Joseph learned that three young Nez Percé men, enraged at the loss of their homeland, had massacred a band of white settlers. Fearing U.S. Army retaliation, Chief Joseph decided that the best way to avoid the official U.S. Government policy of forcing Native Americans onto reservations was to escape to Canada.
The Battle of Big Hole took place on August 9 and 10, 1877 during the Nez
An Overview Of The Indian Encampment
Big Hole National Battlefield - Wisdom MT Percé failed attempt to escape to Canada and was the largest battle fought between the Nez Percé and U.S. Government forces in the five-month conflict known as the Nez Perce War. U.S. Army forces performed a predawn attack on the 800 men, women and children encamped at Big Hole. The Nez Perce mounted a fierce resistance and initially managed to overwhelm the attacking force. During the day and a half battle, the Nez Perce lost an estimated 60 to 90 men, women and children, although it is believed the actual losses may have been much higher with a good portion being women and children. U.S. forces lost 28 and an additional 40 serious casualties.
The confrontation was the most violent battle between the Nez Perce and the U.S. Government forces. After the battle, the Nez Perce fled east through Yellowstone National Park, then headed north. In October 1877, only 40 miles from the Canadian border in Montana's Bear Paw Mountains, the starving and exhausted Nez Percé surrendered to the U.S. Forces commanded by General Howard. Approximately 150 Nez Perce had managed to escape to Canada prior to the surrender.
As with all the NPS facilities I have visited,
Main Street Bannack Is Serene
Bannack State Park - Bannack MT the Big Hole National Battlefield Visitor Center is first-rate. The introductory video provides a good explanation of the events leading to the conflict and of the evolution and aftermath of the battle itself. I confined my visit to the visitor center and didn’t take time to venture onto the battlefield. I’m aware of the plight of the Native Americans and the fraud perpetrated by the U.S. government upon them but know little of the specific battles and treaty violations. I hope to learn more as The Great Adventure focused on the western U.S. Big Hole National Battlefield is a must see for western and/or Native American enthusiasts but probably not as much for the average tourist.
The drive to Bannack State Park in Bannack MT took me along MT 278 and through 7360’ Big Hole Pass. I arrived at the well preserved mining ghost town and went to the visitor center. Armed with a well done self-guided tour booklet and an admonition from the park ranger that rattlesnakes had recently begun taking refuge in the park to escape the chilly nights, I proceeded to Building Number 1. That building happened to be the Turner House.
Bannack, the site
of a major gold discovery in 1862, was founded that same year and was named after the local Bannock Indians. It briefly served as the capital of Montana Territory until the capital was moved to Virginia City. At its peak, Bannack had a population of about ten thousand and three hotels, three bakeries, three blacksmith shops, two stables, two meat markets, a grocery store, a restaurant, a brewery, a billiard hall and four saloons.
Like most of the buildings in Bannock, the Turner House served in multiple capacities. Arthur Contway bought the building in the early 1900s. It served as his residence, the post office, a barber shop and, for a period of time, sported the only telephone in town.
Bannack's sheriff, Henry Plummer, was accused of secretly leading a band of ruthless road agents that was responsible for over a hundred murders in the Virginia City and Bannack gold fields as well as the trails to Salt Lake City. Since only eight deaths are documented, some modern historians have called into question the exact nature of Plummer's gang while others deny the existence of the gang altogether. Regardless, on January 10, 1864 Plummer and two deputies were
hanged without trial. A number of Plummer's associates also were lynched and others were banished with promises of death should they ever return.
Building Number 2 is the Assay Office – arguably the most important building in town. The Assay Office analyzed the mineral content of the mined specimens. Bannack's gold was unique and very high quality. While most gold was 80 to 95 percent pure, Bannack's gold tested out at 99.5 percent pure – as pure as Ivory Soap, errrr refined gold!
Sixty historic log and frame structures remain standing in Bannack. Many are extremely well preserved, and are open for exploration. The site, now the Bannack Historic District, was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1961. While Bannack State Park is not particularly popular among tourists, the site remains a favorite for locals and historians alike. I suspect the remote location might be the primary culprit; however, I would strongly encourage VACATIONERS travelling north on I-15 to hop off the freeway and stop in at Bannack State Park. This is the most well preserved and best documented ghost town I have heard of or visited. After all, what is a VACATION void of the good stuff?
The drive back to Butte on MT 278 took me through 6760’ Badger Pass. What a nice stretch of scenic roadway! However, with this being my last day in Butte, I had one more “must do” on the agenda and was focused on the prize. I think it is fair to say that gastronomic undertakings are subjective. After the trolley tour, that phenomenon became apparent when I asked the driver for a pasty eatery recommendation. Several venues were recommended by the trolley driver (a Butte firefighter working on his day off fire duty) and a couple of locals who were entertaining out-of-town guests.
First things first: Pasties are meat and potato pies that are enveloped in a golden-baked pie crust (that is shaped like and weights about the same as a brick). They come dry, smothered or injected with gravy or, as I saw on my menu, covered with chili. The pasty with gravy is by far the most popular and cost about $6.50 for enough to satisfy two small appetites.
The pasty was introduced to Butte by Cornish and Welsh miners in the nineteenth century. Thousands of feet below the earth's surface, the pasty was standard
The Beauty Seems Endless
Return To I-15 From Bannack State Park lunchbox fare of those Cornish and Welsh miners. Other miners saw the convenience and nourishment the pies provided and adopted them. Some individualized the pasty by added their own ingredients. Today, the pasty has come to be identified with Butte as much as the the pork-chop sandwich, Evel Knievel, "tap 'er light" and the Berkeley Pit.
After a busy day, I headed to Joe's Pasty Shop because it has been operating since 1947 (I figured they must have been doing something right!) and because I could dine in. Some pasty eateries are carry-out only. The house specialty (smothered in brown gravy, of course) was everything I had been told by all parties involved in the discussion noted above. I ate the whole thing and was totally stuffed. When visiting Butte, dining on a pasty is a must!
I TOTALLY enjoyed my time in Butte and plan to return. The people are friendly, the townscape is interesting and the attractions are numerous. I still have a handful of attractions I couldn’t fit into the schedule including the Mai Wah Museum, which documents the history of the Chinese migrants in Butte, a walk through the Butte Historic District and The
Blue Against Green – I Love It!
Return To I-15 From Bannack State Park Dumas Brothel. I might even stop at the Mountain View Cemetery to pay homage to labor leader Frank Little and to check out the alleged extravagance of the Evel Knievel headstone. The Butte area definitely is worth a brief visit for everyone who is not a direct descendant of Scrooge!
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