Return to New England, Pt 5

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We left Franklin and headed for the Maine coast. Along the way, we took back roads in NH through the town of Belmont. We turned at an intersection and there was a church. What could we do but break into a song from "The Great Winnipaususkee Steamboat Race and Musical Talent Contest." (This was a melodrama John was in back in 1978! Not widely known, but well known in the Lakes Region.) We continued on to Gilmanton which prompted us to want to re-read Peyton Place; yes, the book is supposedly based on events/people in the town of Gilmanton, NH. We kept to back roads almost to Saco when the GPS has us take the Maine turnpike for about 3 miles: Cost, over $6! John reprogrammed the GPS to avoid toll roads. Seems a double axle pulling a car is a lot more than expected.

We got to Old Orchard Beach and headed south to Ferry Beach. There is a Unitarian Universalist campground there we had attended a couple of times with the kids in the late 80s. I had emailed them and found out they would accept campers. We had camped there in a tipi back in those days and remembered the large open field with trees on the edge. We figured we'd be dry camping but that was OK. Well, they have installed electric outlets along the fence line and have both 20 and 30 amp service. We were told to find a spot and plug in; we could pay the next day. All they have is electric; no water and no dump or sewer. The bathhouses are OK, but rustic. And all along the fence are much older trailers and RVs, we guess for staff or rentals. They looked disreputable. We set up and then went to find some fresh seafood. After driving around the best we could find for something special was a HUGE chocolate whoopie pie with creamy icing for $2.50. So that was dessert....later. We went back to the campsite, walked to the beach and then headed for bed after some quick dinner (and dessert).

Next day we checked and discovered the campsite would be $40 a night. Since there were other campgrounds with pools, water and sewer and cable for much less, we decided to leave. Rather disappointed with the attitude at Ferry Beach; we know it costs money, but to offer sites at those rates and minimal facilities because they can took us aback a bit. Oh well, we'll keep the good memories. Once set up in the new campground, we went looking for dinner--as in "Where's the lobster?" We drove out to a point where Bayles Lobster Pound stood. Typical Maine coast spot--lots of boats in the harbor, some working lobstermen around, cool breeze coming in from the Atlantic, and yes, a lobster pound with lobsters at $6 a pound. BUT...those were the soft shell lobster. Turns out lobsters shed just like crabs. We'd eaten soft shell crab before (in a bun like a burger...yum), but we had no idea the lobster did the same. Well, not exactly. When they shed, the new shell is quickly hard but it is larger than the lobster and they grow into it. So a hard shell lobster completely fills it's shell (and is very hard to crack) while the soft shell 'appears' to be smaller in the shell, but the shell is very easy to break open. Oh, soft shells are cheaper because most people feel they are being "gypped". So, two 1 1/2 pound lobsters (soft shell) later, we were back at camp for our lobster feast.

Next day we decided to drive towards York on US-1. Hardly any traffic as most choose the expensive and noisy Interstate. We passed through small towns with great gift shops and scenic places to spend time. Finally, we turned off to Nubble Light. This is an old light house sitting on an island just off the coast. The road there is winding and at times narrow, but very passable. At the light, we got out, took pictures, bought gifts, and then headed to Brown's Ice Cream for some really good home made treats. We had wild Maine blueberry and Checkerberry. Not many folks try the checkerberry (mostly natives) but it is pink with a distinct Teaberry flavor. Checkerberries grow wild in the area and are small, hard to find, and pithy. But in the ice cream....oh boy!

We left York and headed back to Saco on the coastal route, up to Kennebunkport. I had stayed there with my grandparents back in the early 60's...before George H.W. Bush was a key figure in the news. It was a quiet town with simple merchants and a great summer spot to relax. We visited the town again in 1972, again, prior to the Honorable Bush being VP. Town was still quiet and quaint. There was a seafood spot at one end of the bridge that had excellent fried clams--with the whole belly. I wanted to taste those again. But when we got to the town, it was a madhouse!! People everywhere, road construction, and gaudy new establishments at every corner. The seafood spot was still there with HUGE lines--seems they had won an award on some TV food show and now "everyone" had to try the clam roll. I heard folks in line who a) didn't want the whole belly (ick), b) didn't want mayo (but that's how they advertised it), and c) weren't sure what to get. OMG!! Just order the food and move. As we edged closer, Trish started sniffing. Finally she said, "That grease is OLD and rancid. I can smell it." I started sniffing and had to agree. In their haste to get business, they had neglected the quality of the food. Someone came by with some clams and they didn't look tan, tender and sweet. The final straw was the cost: $23 for a pint! Clams were selling in the store for $3 a pound. I sure wasn't going to get at least 4 pounds of clams, even in the shell. So we opted to move on. Sad...success and popularity ended up ruining a great small town.

We went to Biddeford Pool and looked at lighthouses and found a small cafe/general store where we got fried clams and clam chowder. Some of the best chowder I've had. That and a bottle of Moxie was our lunch. We drove around, took pictures then went back to the campsite. We stopped at a market and got 3 pounds of clams and steamed those for dinner--along with potato salad and wine. Great dinner!

Next day was raining, so perfect day to catch up on laundry, cleaning the coach, and John heading to local library to check emails and directions via Mapquest. Came back to camp with some great Greek food for lunch then nap time and reading. Finally went back out and got more lobster for dinner and repeated the lobster, corn and wine. Yep, can't beat Maine shore dinners fixed at your own picnic table.

Next day we planned to head out to NJ to see Trish's brother. We had seen him last fall and wanted to stop again. We would drive as far as Connecticut and spend the night. This would put us close to NJ for an easy drive the next day AND allow us to claim an overnight in that state, netting us four New England states: VT, NH, ME and CT to add to our map of places we had camped in. Only two states left on the east coast are Massachusetts and Delaware.

Our visit with Jack, return visit to Kim, and Virginia visit will be the next blog.

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Photos

Ferry Beach
Still relatively unspoiled and open. Lots of sand and grasses. But the water is COLD.

Island off Ferry Beach
We took a canoe long ago and with the kids, paddled out at dawn. It's a bird refuge and porpoises swim around you. We turned and came in on the tide, landing just before the breakfast bell rang.

Bayley's Point
Just north of Saco is Bayley's Point. They have a lobster pound ($6/lb) and spots to eat, but all the eateries were closed. So we bought 2 lobsters to cook at camp.

Dinner!
A pound and a half lobster, fresh ear of sweet corn, butter with lemon, and a glass of wine. This was living!!

Nubble Light at York
I had first come here in 1977 and been enchanted. A teacher from Franklin, June Dolloff had a place in York and I had a chance to visit. Great memories of sights, sounds and good food.

Classic light house
We've heard that some of the light houses are for sale, including Nubble. They actually are GIVING them away to qualified groups. It's hoped that York and other towns will accept them and keep them up for the tourist value they bring in.

Brown's Ice Cream
A short walk from Nubble Light is Brown's. Although they have a multitude of flavors, the classic is Checkerberry. You might recognize it as Teaberry (like the old gum.) Light pink with a tart minty taste.

Biddeford Pool
Found two light houses here, far off. Couldn't get closer but note the tower shape; very different. There was a little town park here honoring the lighthouse keepers over the years.

Second Light house
Again, no way to reach this (that we could discern.) But just love looking at them and thinking of the brave men and women who manned them during the storms to protect mariners.

Lobster....again
Found a cheaper spot for lobster, only $5/lb. So of course, had to get 2. These were closer to 1 3/4 pounds. Still good with butter, corn on the cob, and more wine.