Pullman Train Journey - New Orleans to Chicago - Departure: Part 2 of 3

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Nightime on the City of New Orleans

Changing cars in Memphis, Tennessee

Halfway home, we'll be there by mornin'



This morning, before the sun even thought about coming up, we headed for the airport. For a 6:30 in the morning flight we left home at 4:45 am. Such is the state of air travel... two hours before a departure and a bushel of hassles. Makes one yearn for those times when life was much simpler. Our steel bird arrived in New Orleans at 9 am, on time. Since we did not have to board the Pullman Journey's coach until 1 p.m., we hoped to find lockers at the train station, No lockers.

With trepidation, knowing full well, had we been at an airport, what the airlines' response would be if we were to enquire about securing our luggage, we approached the counter. A very pleasant young porter, Kim, surprised us. He took charge of our bags and assured us that he would place them in our compartment. Free of our luggage, we proceeded with our plans to find a great place for an early meal. We know New Orleans fairly well but we decided to try something new, away from our usual meal at Mr. B's, Galatoire's or Brennan's. A friend in Austin (Patty who owns The Garden Room) had recommended “The Grocery" in the garden district, near one of the most unique, and I think creepy cemeteries, in the world. Folks are actually buried above ground because of the water table. Think Katrina, would that not conjure floating bodies in your imagination. To our amazement, “The Grocery" turned out to be a funky, old sandwich shop with worn wooden floors and rickety chairs. We were there and we were hungry, so we ordered. Wow. Two of the best sandwiches we've had in a long time. A cuban and a muffaletta pressed sandwiches served with dark cherry cream and orange cream sodas. With time running short, we made a dash (took cab) to Cafe Beignet (Cafe Du Monde is passé) for a couple of super tasting beignets and strong coffee.

Back to New Orleans' train station, I promise you, it will never be confused with any of Europe's grand train stations. However, it has its pluses, easy to get there, clean, quiet and well-marked. With only a couple of tracks someone would have to work very hard to make it difficult to find and board your train (think airlines and TSA).

Boarding time. We were met at the gate, actually just a door going out to the two tracks, by two very friendly porters who chatted with us and answered our questions. For those of you who know her, you know that Margo can ask a whole lot of questions. While these patient young men dealt with her, I went off to photograph the train. No TSA guys with stun guns! The cars are named after well-known trains of yesteryear. My one and only disappointment so far: there isn't a coach named "The City of New Orleans". Yet, I was informed that the name is being reserved for a "special" coach.

On board. Luggage in compartment, train departing on time. Drinks and snacks served in the Lounge Car. Got into baseball discussion with a St. Louis fan. Great stuff though. We reminisced about the Cardinals' and Giants' teams of the 60's and early 70's. Musial, Gibson and Boyer vs. Mays, McCovey and Marichal, way before free agency and $30 bleachers' ticket prices. Lunch was announced half an hour after leaving the station. The dining car is, well please look at the pictures so that I won't have to say great again. The menu was ample with salads, soups several types of sandwiches, burgers and deserts...and a bunch of other stuff I did not look at.

For about the first hour out of New Orleans all you could see is swamp, the natives call it "Bayous". Swamps. elevated tracks and parallel running highway, at least 15 feet above the water (not ground) level. Not to be unsympathetic but how could these people ever know if Katrina's waters have receded. Once out of the swamps, I guess in Mississippi, the tracks run in a canyon of trees, all is green. Every 10 or 15 minutes a hamlet will pop by. Hammond,McComb, Brookhaven, Hazlehurst this is rural America.

Finally, a city, sort of, Jackson, MS (I think Nancy Sinatra sang about it). Did not look like much there to sing about; but it did have a couple of multi-story buildings.

It’s night now and we are running about an hour late. It is after all Amtrak driving the locomotive. But it doesn't matter, the staff is very friendly and accommodating, the ride is most relaxing and you can drink and eat all you want. Good company especially if you want to know about trains and baseball. What is not to like and enjoy.

After an excellent dinner we spent an hour or so socializing with fellow passengers. The train seemed to pick up speed. At about ten o’clock we decided to turn in. Quite an experience adjusting to the limited space of our compartment, but we managed just fine. The interesting part is that just about then (about an hour from Memphis) we hit a particularly bad stretch of track and our train was rocking and rolling quite violently. Our compartment had bunk beds, very comfortable and cozy. The rocking and rolling and the clicketty clack of the track lulled me into a deep sleep.

Tomorrow early in the morning we arrive in Chicago.

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