Advertisement
Published: November 5th 2018
The drive from Alyeska Resort in Girdwood AK to Kenai River Lodge in Soldatna AK was slightly over two hours, which gave us time to stop at the
Soldotna Visitor Information Center. The visitor center has a wealth of information, had answers to all of my questions and has a number of incredible animal mounts including a World Record King Salmon – 97 pounds, 4 ounces and 58 ½ inches long – caught on May 17, 1985 on the Kenai River over which our room window looks. The motel is unique in that it owns the riverfront property and restricts fishing there to motel guests. We were able to watch several successful fisherpersons (both on the motel property and the public park across the river) land what appeared to be nice-sized keepers. Other features of the property are that there is a nice cocktail lounge on site, and a nice breakfast is served daily.
After our stop at the visitor center, we made a visit to
Town of Living Trees, a chainsaw carving shop. During conversation with the owner and master carver, we learned that he had stopped participating in the Seldovia Craft Invitational Chainsaw Carving Competition in Seldovia AK when the event was moved from
Incredible Works of Art
Town of Living Trees - Soldotna AKMemorial Day Weekend to Labor Day Weekend and knew nothing of the upcoming competition. I had hoped to get information from him about the 2018 event because I had been unsuccessful on the internet and the visitor center had no knowledge of the 2018 event either and, likewise, could get no results from the internet. Perhaps it had been discontinued??? Seldovia is across the inlet from Homer AK, our next destination, but can only be reached by ferry, a $60.00 round trip with one departure and one return per day. Unable to validate the sketchy information at hand, we decided to discard the chainsaw carving competition and to save to the money and a precious day of Alaskan adventure.
One of the reasons I had opted to make a stop in Soldatna was to check out a scenic drive along Cook Inlet that was across the inlet from five volcanoes. The
Volcanoes of Cook Inlet include Augustine, Hayes, Iliamna, Redoubt and Spurr. Frequently, volcanoes look like nothing more than graceful peaks and are the central attraction of many national parks, but the Volcanoes of Cook Inlet are some of the most heavily monitored seismic regions on earth. Eighty percent of all active
U.S. volcanoes are in Alaska. Most lie along the Pacific Ring of Fire, an arc stretching out to the Aleutians into eastern Russia. The 1912 eruption of Novarupta, which created the landscape of Katmai National Park, was the largest of the century – spewing 30 times more magma than the 1980 eruption of Mount Saint Helens and twice that of Mount Pinatubo’s 1991 eruption. That three-day eruption produced 14 earthquakes that registered 6 to 7 on the Richter scale and an ash cloud that darkened and nearly suffocated the village of Kodiak, 100 miles away. Water became undrinkable, radio communication was disrupted, roofs collapsed under the weight of a foot of ash and buildings were wrecked by ash avalanches thundering down hillsides. Animal and plant life were decimated; bears starved when their food was wiped out; millions of dead birds, blinded by ash, littered the ground; and salmon perished in ash-choked streams.
Augustine is the most active volcano of the eastern Aleutian arc and consists of several overlapping lava domes that frequently produce explosive eruptions. Hayes volcano, named after Hayes Glacier, is a stratovolcano which was only discovered in 1975. It is located in a remote, mostly uninhabited and
inaccessible region of the northern Tordrillo Mountains. The volcano has no distinctive summit and 90% of its surface is covered by glaciers and ice. There are several uncertain reports about activity of the Iliamna volcano in the past 250 years, but the only confirmed known historical eruptions were small to moderate explosive eruptions in 1867, 1876, and between 1878 and 1879. With a base of over 6 miles and an elevation of 10,200 feet above sea level, Redoubt is one of the largest and one of the most active volcanoes in Alaska. Redoubt has an ice filled summit crater, almost 1 ¼ miles in diameter, which is breached to the north by Drift Glacier. With an 11,069-foot-high summit Mount Spurr volcano is the highest volcano in the Aleutian Volcanic Arc. Volcanoes, still today, affect life in Alaska. Mount Spurr’s 1992 eruption coated Anchorage in ash, forced residents to stay indoors and caused folks to avoid driving; while Mount Redoubt’s 1990 eruption severely disrupted air traffic, halted oil production in Cook Inlet, closed schools and caused power outages.
Indeed, volcanoes are as much a part of Alaska as are grizzlies fishing for salmon; well, almost. Most assuredly, I wanted to
take a look at these volcanic features to complete the Alaska chapter of
The Great Adventure. On Friday, August 31, 2018, we headed for Kenai AK and took Route S-490 north. The map shows a thin ribbon of land between the roadway and Cook Inlet and, thus, between the roadway and a view of the Volcanoes of Cook Inlet. That strip of land might be the most densely populated area of trees and underbrush I’ve seen yet in Alaska. Although views of the volcanoes didn’t materialize, the drive was somewhat scenic and relaxing.
Later that day, we walked across the bridge and took a walk along the Kenai River. On our return, we made a stop at the
Soldotna Historical Society Museum. In the museum “headquarters,” we got a short lesson on Alaskan homesteading. In 1862, Congress passed the revolutionary Homestead Act that sent thousands of Americans west in pursuit of free land. Any man 21 years of age or over was eligible to stake out 160 acres of land for less than $20. After filing their intentions, homesteaders were required to live on the land, to build a residence and to farm at least ten percent of it within five years
before a legal patent for the land was issued. After Alaska was purchased by the U.S. on March 30, 1867, homesteaders began claiming land in Alaska. Homesteaders ranged from dairy and agricultural farmers to miners and wilderness pioneers living a subsistence lifestyle. Although homesteading in most of the U.S. began to rapidly diminish in the early 20
th century, it remained a viable method of settling Alaska.
The Homestead Act was finally repealed in 1976, though Alaska was granted an extension until 1986. Since the 1986 repeal, there has been no federal homesteading program in Alaska; however, the State of Alaska created public land disposal programs starting with statehood in 1959. Initially, the state sold land primarily through auctions and then through land lotteries after 1978. In 1977 the Homesite Law provided for "free land" with provisions similar those of the federal Homestead Act. In 1984, the Homestead Program was initiated, allowing for the claim of 40 non-agricultural acres or 160 agricultural acres of land. The requirements for homesteaders eventually came to include U.S. citizenship, residency in Alaska for one year prior to filing and certain surveying, clearing and building obligations. During the homesteading period, the Kenai National Moose Range
Three Owl Mounts Are Very Well Done
Soldotna Historical Society Museum - Soldotna AK was established by signature of President Franklin D. Roosevelt on December 16, 1941; and, in 1980, The Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act re-designated the Kenai National Moose Range as the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge, including the establishment of 1.32 million acres as Kenai Wilderness, thereby eliminating homesteading in the area.
The Soldotna Historical Society Museum compound includes a headquarters, a wildlife museum and an historic log village. Soldotna's founding settlers arrived in the Kenai National Moose Range in 1947, and the village includes the territorial school, where students studied by the light of gas lanterns that still hang in the school; and two of the "habitable dwellings" (required for title to their 160 acres) that were originally located in what is now mid-town Soldotna. The strength of the visit was in the history lesson provided by the docent on duty that day.
From Soldatna, we headed to Homer and the Best Western Bidarka Inn. As noted earlier, we had one entire day earmarked for a ferry ride to the community of Seldovia and the Seldovia Invitational Chainsaw Carving Competition. There are two other attractions we planned to visit while in Seldovia – the
Seldovia Museum & Visitor’s Center and the
Saint Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church The Lynx Fairs Quite Well in Snowy Terrain
Alaska Islands & Ocean Visitor Center - Homer AK – as well as one event, the Acoustic Alaska Guitar Camp Master’s Competition, whose Google search proved just as inconclusive as that of the chainsaw competition. The operative word in the sentence is planned.
With only two actual attractions on the agenda, we headed for the
Alaska Islands & Ocean Visitor Center in Homer. One of the first exhibits I encountered was quite interesting. The Unangan people gave the season, and the months, names that reflected their way of life. For example, the name for February reflected “moon of last stored food” while March was “moon of eating skins” and April was “near hunger moon.” Very interesting. Next, and during Russian ownership of Alaska, the center examines the “otter slaughter” (a single otter pelt was worth three times the annual wage of a Russian seaman when sold in the Chinese market) and the decimation of the Unangan population (a reduction from 15,000 in 1742 to 2000 in 1831) as a result of forced labor and disease.
In the late 1700s, still under Russian ownership, foxes were introduced in the Aleutian Islands to reproduce for additional fur money. Why not, the bird population (which seemed endless) would be easy prey as they had never
even seen a land mammal, let alone a predatory mammal. Sailors spotted right and sperm whales in 1835, and Alaska’s first “oil boom” was on. Whale oil, as well as baleen, was harvested without caution. As whales became scarcer, sailors turned to the walrus for oil and got ivory as a bonus. The Aleutian Campaign, the Good Friday Earthquake and homesteading might have led an Alaska to articulate, “Enough already. Leave me alone.” The museum ends, as do many, with numerous mounts of mammals from the Kachemak Bay area. We made a stop at the Center for Alaskan Coastal Studies – Wynn Nature Center in Homer, but the facility was secured regardless of what the web site or the signage said. On the full day that was added to the calendar, I was able to do some catching up on the travel blogs and relax a spell!
The drive to Seward AK on Tuesday, September 4, 2018 was relatively short, uneventful and under blue skies. Our list on Wednesday included
Exit Glacier near Seward. It is the only part of
Kenai Fjords National Park accessible by road. A network of short trails leads to different views of Exit Glacier, and they all begin
at the Exit Glacier Nature Center. Fortunately, I checked before we got our hearts set on a nice walk as a park closure was in effect because of an Ice Fall Hazard Zone at the toe of Exit Glacier, “An ice fall hazard zone has been identified at the toe and sides of Exit Glacier, due to tall blocks and slabs of ice. For your safety, entry into this zone is prohibited.” Enough said!
Instead of hiking, we got tickets for the
Kenai Fjords Tours - Resurrection Bay Tour. It would not have been our tour of choice, but our preferred trip was only offered through Labor Day. Timing is everything. The Resurrection Bay Tour made a stop for a Salmon Bake at the corporate facility on Fox Island. The meal was nice but, generally, just another two-option buffet (take it or leave it); whereas, we would have preferred to have had the chicken wrap (served on board the ship) and to have spent more time on the water seeing the fjords and possibly more wildlife. As it was, we saw very little wildlife, and the shortened (mileage abbreviated) tour led us to see much less landscape.
Our next stop was the
Alaska Sealife Center in
Seward. This aquarium focuses on the 45,000 miles of Alaskan coastline (the other 49 states combined have 54,729 miles of coastline) and the fauna that inhabits those areas. The first exhibit is one of my favorites, jellyfish. Countless aquaria host vertebrate and invertebrate specimens including a
Giant Pacific Octopus. There are two tanks with underwater and above water viewing – one for two Steller sea lions and one for a pair of harbor seals. Also, on the upper level is an aviary containing numerous Alaskan species, including puffin, that are oblivious to humans. A couple of attendants are on duty to monitor and to answer questions. Additionally, placards discuss subjects such as sea lion haulouts and rookeries, fishing sustainability, the ongoing effects of lingering oil from the 1989 Valdez oil spill, salmon migration and sea ice vs. glacial ice. This aquarium is very nicely done and, as can be readily seen, offers content that is not found in most other aquaria.
Getting even a fleeting glimpse of Denali might be more of a challenge than the average tourist would think. Denali is often covered in clouds, and probably only one out of three visitors to interior Alaska actually get to see
Denali, Right, from Fifty Miles Away
From the Banks of the Susitna River – Talkeetna AK the entire mountain. We had missed out on the Hurricane Turn Train ride, again as we spent a day white water rafting, another on an all-day bus trip into Denali National Park and then again for the entire seven days we were in Fairbanks. The days we were in Palmer were all overcast, and I had pretty much given up hope for seeing Denali; however, as we spent time in Soldatna, Homer and Seward, the weather forecasts became more and more favorable, and I became more and more optimistic that we would have at least one good day during our three-day stay in Anchorage. Time marched on, the forecasts remained favorable and I gained optimism. The mountain top can be seen from Anchorage (about 200 miles) or Fairbanks (about 165 miles) on clear days, but one of the best places to see Denali is from Talkeetna AK, about 50 miles southeast of Denali, and the starting point for most of the Denali climbing expeditions.
We had driven through a portion of Talkeetna to get to the train station and the Hurricane Turn Train and then to have supper after the train ride. We agreed it looked like an interesting
The Dogs – It’s All About the Dogs
Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race Headquarters - Wasilla AK town that merited a return visit if circumstances permitted. With a favorable weather forecast for Saturday, September 8, 2018, those “circumstances permitted” our two-hour drive back to Talkeetna. Hills and forest hindered our first look at Denali, and then a lack of roadside pull-offs prevented any photographic opportunities for much of the drive; however, I finally got a distant shot of the elusive behemoth, just in case she decided to disappear in the clouds yet again. Make no mistake, Talkeetna is a tourist town with Denali as its showpiece. We decided to get some lunch, and I asked the server if there were any good vantage points in town. There is a great spot within easy walking distance of the “main street” shops and eateries. For my readers who might visit Alaska, as you enter Talkeetna you will encounter a three-way intersection with a stop sign. Take the left fork, and go west. Find a place to park and walk the 2-3 blocks to the river, veer right on a well-worn foot path for about 100-150 yards and thar she blows! On a Saturday, the place was chockful of tourists as well as the workweek folks taking advantage of the
The Mushers Are Not Forgotten …
Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race Headquarters - Wasilla AK rare cloudless skies. The majestic lady was worth every drop of gas and every second of time it took for us to enjoy her splendor.
On the way back to Anchorage, we made a stop at
Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race Headquarters in Wasilla. The Iditarod Trail, also known historically as the Seward-to-Nome Trail, refers to a thousand-plus mile historic and contemporary trail system that began as a composite of trails established by Alaskan native peoples. Its route from Seward to Nome AK crossed several mountain ranges and valleys and passed through numerous historical settlements. The discovery of gold brought thousands of people over this route beginning in 1910, and dog barns and roadhouses sprang up every 20 miles or so – including in the gold rush town of Iditarod AK. By 1918, World War I and the ebb in 'gold fever' led to far less travel on the trail, and the trail might have been forgotten altogether except for the 1925 diphtheria outbreak in Nome. In one of the final great feats of dog sledding, twenty drivers and teams carried the life-saving serum 674 miles in 127 hours. Today, the Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race serves to commemorate the import both drivers and
… But It’s All About the Dogs
Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race Headquarters - Wasilla AK dogs played in the development of Alaska.
The facility has statues and tributes to honor the “parents” of the modern Iditarod,
Joe Reddington, Sr. and
Dorothy Page (no, not the actress). All the Iditarod race winners are honored, and many of the best of the best dogs are given a place of honor. Indeed, two dog full-body mounts, those of Togo (1915-1929) and Andy (1975-1991) are on display. Yes, the mushers are honored, but the museum is really about the dogs. A movie, a “must-see” if you bother to make the drive to the facility, focuses on the dogs and their inherent desire to run but also addresses racing and mushing issues such as veterinary care, nutrition and rest during the race and on overall canine care issues. The Iditarod is about as Alaska as one can get, and the Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race Headquarters was a great place to complete that paragraph of
The Great Adventure.
Sunday, September 9, 2018 was a “preparation to depart Alaska” day, and Monday was a “how shall we waste this interim” day while awaiting the dreaded Tuesday “travel forever” day. Tuesday, 9/11 no less, we had a 2 AM departure from Anchorage with
a stopover in Seattle WA of about 3 ¼ hours (6:26 to 9:45) which would give us time for breakfast. But, how would we get the rental returned and then kill the time from late checkout (12 Noon) until time to check in at the airport? Fortunately,
Alex Hotel & Suites Anchorage Airport operates a shuttle to the airport and offered to allow us to stow our belongings in a space near the front desk. That was great as I was not wanting to lug that baggage around during rental car return, etc., etc., etc.
We stowed the luggage on Monday morning and headed for Earthquake Park in Anchorage. The 134-acre park is a natural memorial to the victims of the 1964 Good Friday Earthquake. The earthquake was measured at a 9.2 on the Richter scale and lasted 4 minutes. During the last century's most powerful earthquake, an entire neighborhood slid into the ocean. Signage explains the circumstances of the quake, the geologic forces at work that day and its effect on the area; and the visitor can see the cliff created by the slippage of that segment of the earth’s surface. Again, the park is a unique piece of the Alaska landscape that
A Fun Place to Grab a Brew
Salty Dog Saloon – Homer AK deserves a place in
The Great Adventure.
After our stop at the park, we sought out an eatery in the area and ended up at, of all things, a Mexican restaurant,
La Cabana Mexican Restaurant, where I had one of the best Mexican meals I’ve had since leaving Arizona in early April. After lunch, we returned the rental car (with some 2551 miles added to the odometer) and called for the shuttle to return us to the hotel. After a few hours of “hotel lobby time,” we walked a couple of blocks to a 24-hour eatery for supper, returned to the hotel, killed some more “lobby time” and took the shuttle to the airport. Everything at the airport went as well as or better than expected except that Marilyn had to “mail herself” a couple of forbidden items (souvenir cutting boards with a small knife) she hadn’t packed in her checked baggage. In Seattle, we had breakfast as planned and checked in at the gate. Our flight was delayed 3-4 times for 10-15 minutes each time, but that accumulation amounted to about an hour. Of course, we were late arriving in Calgary and had to wait 15-20 minutes for our gate to
clear for the plane. Clearing Canadian customs went smoothly except that the agent wanted to know why I planned to visit Canada for only one day. We retrieved our checked baggage and called the lady from the RV storage facility. She arrived and took us to the Ram and Bighorn. Momentarily, we were on our way back to the Lower 48. Again, we breezed through customs, this time U.S. Customs, and made a very late arrival at the RV park, Glacier Meadow RV Park in Essex MT. It had been a long day, and we both were glad that portion of the journey was behind us. After a good night’s sleep, it was onward for an attraction-filled journey back to Iowa.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.12s; Tpl: 0.016s; cc: 13; qc: 29; dbt: 0.0402s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb
Bruce
non-member comment
What to see!
Larry, you saw more than my wife did up there while visiting her father back in the 70's, but the place is probably a little more civilized now.