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Published: August 25th 2009
Wow its been a LONG time since my last blog. I appologize but getting on the computer to write is about the last thing I want to be doing...
So lets see.... after three weeks in Palenque of sneaking into the ruins through la selva, going to the waterfalls, and generally enjoying the energy of that magical place, I left for Merida. It was quite the change to go from several weeks in the jungle to the regular bussle of city life in the Yucatan. I stayed only two days as I wasn't really feeling the energy of Merida. However, I did make it to some cenotes while I was there. I went with a Canadian couple and it was quite the adventure! We started by going to a small town called Cuzama, from there we took a bicycle taxi about 5k to the start of some old tracks that used to be for harvesting a plant to make rope many years ago. There, we got on a horse pulled cart which took us to three different cenotes! All gorgeous. For those of you who don't know, cause I didn't, a cenote is a glorified hole in the ground. (different from a gloryhole, however 😊 A better description is an underground pool of fresh water. Many cenotes are connected underground and advanced divers explore these secret passages. The maya used to worship cenotes as an entry into Xilbalba, the underworld. Artifacts and sacrified remains have been found in cenotes. I felt a little creeped swimming in them thinking of what could lie below. But how can you resist the gorgeousness of the crystal waters and cliffs to jump off of?
Also while in Merida I bucked up and bought myself a new camera, yay! And a tent as I knew it would save me a ton while traveling through the Carribean. The next stop was Pisté a small town right outside the ruins of Chichén Itza. I camped there for two nights and checked out the ruins of Chichén. Impressive but very touristic... to be expected but I couldn't skip it. I saw the largest of all the mayan ball courts and the infamous El Castillo.
Next stop was a town called Valladolid, still in the Yucatán... There I camped on a rooftop of tile and suffered the consequenses of a sore low back for a couple days following... lol! I took a day trip to the ruins of Ék Balam. Very beautiful and remote mayan ruins with an impressive sculpture on the side of a temple.
Does that look a little eastern to anyone else?
Then I was off to Isla Mujeres off the coast of Cancún, Quintana Roo. A beautiful and calm island. Just absolutely gorgeous: gentle zephrys... crystal clear waters lapping on white sands... I was dissappointed that it was so ruled by tourists that all the mexicans spoke to me in english and gave me prices in american dollars... white man has obviously claimed this land as his own, but its still in 'another country' which makes it more exotic plus you have the benifit of having the non-whites slaving over you... as they should for the chance to earn our almighty dollars.
But through it all I still found it a place of beauty and amazement. I rode a rented bike all over the island one day and saw the ruins of Ixchel on the south end. She is the mayan godess of fertility and childbirth and may be the reason for the islands name. (mujeres = women) I also snorkeled and saw many beautiful fish and a huge sting ray!
Those sure are gorgeous waters!
After a few days in Isla I made the short trip to Playa del Carmen. Upon arrival I was sick to my stomach. It was by far the most touristic place I have visitied yet. And it was like a cross between Vegas and LA. All white people everywhere. Instead of fleeing as I considered doing, I decided to give it a chance and stay one night. Playa actually ended up showing me a good time! I partied in very outlandish and over-the-top bars and clubs and had a lot of fun.
The next day was off to Tulum. For those of you who don't know... I had dreams of marriage there, not too long ago. So this was a charged place for me. Within seconds of arrival I ran into a man I had made friends with on the bus to Palenque several weeks prior. What are the chances?! He was just arriving as well so we walked to the beach (bien lejos from the town!) with our packs and and the energy aquired from our encounter. There i pitched my tent right off the Caribe and about 2k south of the ruins. Tulum used to be just hippies camped on the beach and just in the last eight years or so has it exploded into the carribean/mayan ruin/''ecotourism'' destination bringing it to par with the other touristic carribean cities. But Tulum is better... not even sure why... leftover vibes from the hippies?
Nisha, a friend I had made in Palenque and I had decided to meet up in Tulum. So on my second day there I was off to find her. Tulum is much bigger than it first appears and after asking around i figured out she was staying about 6k from me a couple beaches down. I had bartered the taxi down real cheap so he dropped me off early as he had new paying customers who flagged him. Im walking down the road thinking to myself Im never gonna find her, shes supposedly in a place called UNO and who knows how far away it is. I look up and shes walking out of the gate of her hotel coming to look for me. Just then. I am convinced I never would have found her otherwise as the sign on for UNO was cryptic, at best. Thats two for two.
The next day we meet up in town catching up on Mayabell gossip, the place where we stayed in Palenque. And I realize just how much I miss the place. She encourages me to go back while Im still nearby, cause I may never get another chance to. Well my pride doesn't like this but I'm actually considering it. About 5 minutes later we meet some crazy people: Mr Hollywood, down in Playa making movies and Cristóbal, lovingly called El Shaman by Hollywood. I bring up Palenque immediately as its on my mind and Cristóbal tells me of dreams hes had of me in the Jaguar Temple in Palenque. He is convinced it was me because of my facial features and I think hes crazy. But this ended up being the sign I needed to make my return to Palenque. Cristóbal ended up showing us a friends property in Sian Ka'an, a bioreserve 10k down the road south of Tulum. We all partied there that afternoon and I am offered a private free cabaña on this property as the owners are gone and only the caretaker is living there. What an opportunity! I moved there the next day and for five days was more or less in isolation on a private beach, living in a beautifully built cabaña (one of four all with amazing woodwork) a kitchen at my disposal and nothing to do but yoga, meditate, read, swim, and stargaze. If I could show you the brilliance of the stars and the galaxy from the Carribean on a reserva miles from any light pollution!! One night I also was witness to some huge turtles laying their eggs just a few 100 meters from where I was staying.
Beach view in Sian Ka'an
I spent a few days opening my heart yoga style and doing a little greiving of lost dreams before I decided to re-enter society and moved back to camping. Twenty minutes upon my arrival back I met Paco. He approached me about going to snorkel which I assumed he was trying to sell me, but after hanging out with him a bit I realized he had free access and we were off to the reciefe (reef). We swam out there and with our luck (that continued for the duration of our time together) we saw turtles, monterays and many brilliant fishies. Paco and I decided to travel together to Palenque as he was headed back up north for an annual international art festival in Guanejuato, his hometown. We hung out in Tulum for about a week and he showed me his crowd (la banda) in Tulum. Which I ended up falling in love with two days before we hit the road, que lastima!
the ruins of tulum
Paco and I had great luck and caught a ride all the way to our first stop with a couple who we drank beers and smoked with. Then we were in Mahahual. A small fishing village about four hours south of Tulum. Paco, in his usual way made friends with half the town in about an hour and the second day we were on a boat fishing with some locals. They caught caracoal, the animal that lives inside the conch shells, and made the best ceviche I have ever had. We also ate fried fish and drank tequilla... on a boat all day and night 😊
paco with some fish
Next stop was Laguna Bacalar were we were on a new-found-friend's boat speeding around the carribean colored lake with in minutes of arrival. That night we made friends with several locals and drank too much whisky. I also bought some shrimp (6 USD for half a kilo !!) and made shrimp scampi. Paco made shrimp coctail... mmmm.
Leaving Bacalar was a snap. We caught the first semi (30 second wait) and made it all the way 20k outside of Palenque in about 4 hours!! Upon arrival, however, I realized that I had lost the tent poles in the semi truck... my tent was now useless! We stayed in a cabaña for a couple nights in El Panchan, a village of cabañas about 2k from Mayabell. After a couple nights I decided to move to Mayabell to be closer to the people I had made friends with before and Paco was going to hit the road and hitch north. We parted ways, saddly, and I went to Mayabell. To save money I cut down some bamboo and stipped it with a machete to pitch my tent. Just as I was setting up my new home, Paco returned. He said that our goodbye was too sad and he didn't want to leave like that. 😊 So he helped me to set up the casa loca.
bien loco!
So there we lived, back in Mayabell, for a good week. Paco and I took a day hike through la selva (jungle), snuck into the ruins of Palenque, past the Jaguar Temple, and over a mountain to an indigenous village of El Naranjo. It was a worthwhile trek with beautiful view of the mountains of Chiapas.
when we first came out of the jungle hike we had this view
Paco and I attempted to leave Palenque for three days (Palenque will do that to you) but were convinced to stay one more day each time. Finally we made it out with my friend Santiago and Jenni. He showed us a community in the indigenous Landacon region of Chiapas in the mountains between Palenque and San Cristóbal. We stayed in this community for free, cabin and food, in exchange for work. We helped to build their new kitchen. Only a couple days there and then we were off to San Cristóbal. Again, my third time there... I do love San Cris as I have previously mentioned, but I was feeling a little anxious to continue on my travels and make it officially to Central America.
So I left for Guatemala on Friday morning. Said my goodbyes to Paco, as he is still headed north to Guanajuato and jumped on a shuttle towards the border. Took two shuttles to get to the border town Ciudad Cuauhtemoc and then a taxi to la frontera. Crossed into Guatemala only to be told I have to get my exit stamp for my passport. Taxi back to Cuautemoc, stamp, taxi back to the border and things are official. Im in Central America. It was a beautiful border too, green lush with steep peaking mountains all around. I changed my pesos into quetzales getting ripped off for around 10 USD... and hopped on a chicken bus towards Queztaltenango, Guatemala aka Xela (Shell-ah). The busses are sweet! Brightly colored school buses that zoom down the mountain side frantically three to a seet and two in the isles, honking their horns speeding around corners, the ayudante running from front door to back to on top of the bus collecting money and peoples belongings all while the bus roars down the road.
Currently, I am living with a local family in Xela and attending spanish school. I will probably be here for just the week. Its a pretty good deal though 140 USD for a week of stay, three meals a day, 20 hours of class and many activities to learn about the local indigenous maya. Xela is a nice city... many americans come here to learn spanish. The house where I am living is one older woman and her youngest son around 20. She speaks maya quiche and spanish and it appears housing students is her profession as there are around 6 of us here. But its comfortable. I have my own room and the showers are hot!
If you are still reading this I'm impressed. Sorry for the length of this blog... its just been SO long. I always love hearing from you! Miss you! love, Gretchen
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Steve
non-member comment
wow!
I'm living vicariously through your blogs. I wish I were not so bound. Thanks for posting such detailed stories. I hope there is more details from your journals not posted in blogs that will become books to perhaps fund future adventures ... at least consider it.