Sound and light at the Temple of the Magician

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Today was a busy day. No. Hectic, then busy.

After a long day yesterday we felt positively bushed and decided to sleep in a little. Following the included breakfast at our hotel (Hotel Dolores Alba) we dilly dallied around our room fiddling with the Internet, composing a blog entry and taking a much deserved dip in the pool. Once we got our merde together, we booked a tour to Uxmal (totally last minute, as the group was nearly full) for the afternoon/evening tour that includes a meal, then a sound and light show after dark.

Once we payed, we realized we had barely and hour-twenty to get to the market and buy some artisan crafts. Once again, Jenny made off like a bandito and now is the proud owner of a beautiful traditional-style, hand-crafted turquoise sun dress. We haggled a touch, and got a couple cents off to a round figure of M$400 (or $40 CDN). Still a good deal considering another, not as exquisite example was across the square for M$550.

Following our soiree into the Plaza Grande market, we walked north a few blocks to an artisan market where nothing in particular struck our fancy. On our way back some random local asked if we were taking nice pictures, to which I said, "I hope so!" After a bit of back and forth, we learned he spoke English and was very interested in ensuring we didn't get ripped off and enjoyed our stay. It was kind of funny because I was really starting to get impatient because of our impending tour departure, now a scant half hour away, and then he dropped a bombshell on us... the hammock merchant the Lonely Planet had recommended was for gringos. Instead, he walked us a couple blocks to the real-deal market which was closing for the week in just a half hour also. What luck, the find of finds in the city and we've got to go to an ancient ruin that's not going anywhere. So we dashed inside, where a most helpful hombre who spoke good English gave us the basics of the operation. Hand made Maya crafts using (essentially) traditional methods to build hammocks, blankets, clothes, Panama hats and all sorts of nick knacks for which I had neither time to shop for nor money to spend. Drat.

What did catch our eye, however, was a traditional Maya hammock. Made of agave fibres, which not coincidentally are naturally mosquito repellent, the thing is as solidly constructed as you could ask, and fits the two of us! After all was said and done we couldn't walk away without one, but didn't have the cash on hand to pay (nor plastic). So after he confirmed we weren't Gringos (Americans, as he put it) he trusted us to take the hammock for the couple hundred pesos I had on hand, and return post haste with the cash to complete the transaction.

So we bid adieu, and hoofed home as quickly as we could where I bade Jenny to pack our things while I made the mad dash back to the store. Keep in mind that it was a long six-block sprint through crazy traffic (vehicle and pedestrian), choking exhaust fumes and sweltering heat/humidity. When I left the hotel with cash in hand, it was one o'clock... the time our tour was due to depart. On the way, the hombre with the recommendations noticed me and asked if we had missed our bus, but I told him, "No but I have to run and pay for a hammock! Muchas gracias!!"

Not sure how to explain Uxmal (OOsh-mall). The first thing that grabs you is the scale of it all... it's so very impressive. 35m high, the main temple. The compound of ruins and temples is spread over a couple hundred square metres, and archaeological work is still ongoing. There is just so much going on with these places, a couple hours really doesn't do it justice if you're a history/culture nerd... like us. It's hard to imagine the entire place gleaming with vibrant reds, yellows and oranges, with contrasting blue and green. Time and excavation work destroyed most of the coloured stucco, though some still clings here and there to certain spots.

The main function of most of the Mayan temples is astronomical and this is no exception. Precisely aligned to the cardinal directions, some of the main work here is depicted in the carvings in the facades. Such work as, the concept of zero and its accurate use. Also, there were calendars for such events as: religion, the lunar cycles, solar cycles, and celestial events (equinoxes and eclipses), and war.

With so much going on in such an ancient place (~ 500AD - 1100 AD) its almost obscene to try and boil it down to a couple succinct paragraphs, so suffice it to say the place is truly breath taking. Come see why for yourself.

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Photos

Temple of the Magician
Thousands of tons of solid limestone (up to the doorway) assembled without mortar, the use of the wheel or beasts of burden. Talk about amazing.

Temple of the Magician II
Solid rock up to the doorway seen here, Uxmal is absolutely stunning. Must have been some view over the political court and the gaming pitches down below.

Temple of the Magician III
So forbiddingly steep at 60 degrees, and one must remember the tallest of the Maya topped out at around 5' tall. Notice the decorative facade going from the ground up all the way to the peak.

Temple of the Magician IV
Cast in silhouette, the temple just towers over everything in the area.

Temple of the Magician V
Looking at the main temple from the political courtyard.

Temple of the Magician VI
The Mayans didn't construct flat roofs as are common in the area nowadays. Instead they used a variation of the arch as you can see in the foreground.

Temple Resident
Plenty of iguanas inhabit the ruins now, they blend in so well you don't really notice them until you're right over top of them and they're scuttling for cover.

High atop the Jungle
Not sure what she's selling, but I'll buy three. Jenny embellishes the facade atop one of the temples at Uxmal.

Magical View
Looking across the complex at the Temple of the Magician and the political courtyard. The ball courts are between the two built up areas.

Sunset at the ruins I
The sun's long rays make for the best photos, which made it really difficult to leave.

Sunset at the ruins II
The setting sun really emphasizes the intricate details on the temple walls.

Sound and Light Show I
They put on a pretty cool show using different coloured lights synched to music and voice (overdubs) to tell the tale of the Maya.

Sound and Light Show II
Since we left in such a panic I forgot my tripod, and all of these shots were hand-held.

Comments

[Grams Monic]

Loved your photos, looks like your feeling better;;. Love Grams

[anonymous]

Thanks!
These are great! I'm loving the "education". The temple details and everything in general about the Mayan culture is fascinating ...

[ifer]

oooh
The temples are so neat. You've inspired me to go and visit... I can't imagine how much history was crammed into your head from the visit :D Okay, back to studying!!! Silly girl, so easily distracted by the internet ;)

[Monty]

Nice shots guys, looks like you're having a great time. Good idea to check out the museum first.