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Our trip to Mexico began in Oaxaca, the most enjoyable city I've visited in that country. We had about two and a half days, including a half day trip to Monte Alban, covered in another post. There were markets, a lovely garden, wonderful food and much mescal. There’s so much art everywhere – murals, sculptures, pottery – it’s like an open air museum in places. Stay longer than three days if you can.
After checking in to our hotel we wandered down the Amador Turistico, past the Zocalo, to the markets of Benito Juarez and 20 de Noviembre for lunch and shopping. There was so much to see that it was nearly overwhelming; lots of delicious stalls and lovely souvenir shops selling prints, pottery, painted animal figurines, moles, spices, chilies, fruits such as ripe red pitaya (pick up some fruit to eat later at your hotel), and, of course, chapulines (grasshoppers)! I had never imagined the market for chapulines (and other insects) could be so robust.
We wrapped up the afternoon at Mezcaleria Cuish, where we had our first taste of mescal (in Mexico), before a brief - but exquisite - bite at Expendio Tradition, and then continued to
our main event of the evening, a visit to La Mezcaloteca. Tastings must be reserved in advance, and they are not cheap, but you will have an attentive and very knowledgeable guide to the world of mescal. Highly recommended if you're interested in gaining a better understanding of mescal on your trip to Mexico.
The next morning was our trip to Monte Alban, followed by a lovely lunch at Itanoni (committed to traditional corn and definitely recommended) and a rest in our flowery courtyard before dinner at Los Danzantes, a highlight of the trip. Absolutely everything was fantastic, especially the moles and the Hoja Santa. If you're making dinner reservations at one restaurant in Oaxaca, this is the one.
Monday's highlight was a visit to the Jardin Ethnobotanical de Oaxaca, which has to be on a guided tour (show up by 10:30 am for the English language tour with your hat, walking shoes and plenty of sunscreen). A fascinating guide to the diverse botany of the state and well worth the slight sunburn I received. And there are lizards! I visited the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzman once it reopened in the afternoon, and then it was
lunch at Hierba Dulce (recommended) and another bite at Expendio Tradition - everything there was delicious.
If you're interested in trying sotol or pulque give Mezcal Speakeasy (not a speakeasy) a try, it was recommended by our mescal instructor at La Mezcaloteca and did not disappoint. For local beer you need to visit La Santisima Flor de Lupulo, which also has a wide selection of house made cured meats. Inventive and delicious libations in a small quiet space. There are also many cute cafes with coffee and chocolate beverages where you can wile away the afternoon. Did I mention there's mescal?! You will never go thirsty here. Or hungry. Bring pesos.
The one essential sight we missed was the Museo de las Cuturas de Oaxaca, reportedly one of Mexico's best regional museums. You must see the treasure discovered in Tomb 7 at Monte Alban. Hours were shortened and it was not open the three days that we were there. If you're in Oaxaca be sure to plan your trip around a visit.
If you have a bit more time and want to escape the heat you can take a bus to Puerto Escondido and enjoy a couple
of days at the beach; a new road should be opening soon which will shorten the trip.
I can also highly recommend our hotel, Las Golondrinas. The rooms are simple but tastefully decorated, the courtyards are quiet and filled with flowering plants, and the staff are wonderfully kind, attentive and helpful. Should we return to Oaxaca I will definitely stay here again.
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Amanda L Williams
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Great photos!!
I love all the mural photos and the narration of your trip. Tell me, was there mescal??? hee!! Sounds like a wonderful time!!!!