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Published: October 31st 2013
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I was in a very deep sleep until 5AM when I was awakened by a major explosion or cannon blast somewhere nearby. Or maybe I was dreaming because I lay in bed waiting for sirens or voices or something to confirm what I thought I heard, but there was nothing but a rooster in training who hadn’t yet learned to wait for the sun before crowing. I was almost back to sleep when another explosion sounded and this time I knew I wasn’t dreaming. Again I waited for sirens or any type of noise that would confirm others had heard it, nothing. Now I was afraid to return to sleep, sure enough, a third explosion sounded at 5:30AM and this time I could see a flash over our high garden walls. The rooster was still doing his thing, but this time I also heard a single church bell chime. The chimes were slow at first, and just like a fire alarm sound to evacuate, the chimes got much faster. I looked out our window, there were no lights on in the main house (casa) so I thought I would go back to sleep and try to ignore the blasts. There were
more and just before 6AM there were many. It was like a crescendo and the church bells were ringing like crazy as well. The rooster in training was joined by others, neighbouring dogs joined the chorus and even my deaf husband sat up and put his hearing aids in to acknowledge that even he had heard the noise. Again, I fell asleep and this time was awakened gently by the sun and song birds.
We unpacked some of our things as we will be here for four days. I tried new Mexican sim cards in our phones and then quickly sent a text message home to say that we had arrived.
It was 9AM when we went for breakfast in the main house. The garden was more beautiful in the daylight with a lovely lemon tree full of fruit right by the path.
The very first thing I asked about, was the many explosions. Eleanor apologized that she had forgot to warn us but this had been going on for the whole month of October and she had become accustomed to it. It slipped her mind. There will be one more early morning of noise (October 31).
The noise is made by
cohetes which are nothing more than noise makers that sound like cannons. She then told us the story.
In Ajijic, the entire month of October is devoted to the Virgin of the Rosary, whose statue resides the rest of the year in the small chapel on the Plaza. A small pre-procession will occur on Sept. 30 from the Guadalupe Church to the San Andres church in the late afternoon. Special Masses, which include the saying of the Rosary, will be held every evening throughout the month. Afterwards, there are morning
cohetes to propel the prayers of the people to God.
The whole point of having
cohetes, bandas, and processions including singers in the pre-dawn hours is to wake up the people for the morning Mass, not that everyone goes every day.
October 31 is the last day of the month-long celebration, so there will be an large evening fiesta beginning with a procession including floats,
Danzantes, bandas, and the carrying of
La Virgen, herself, through the town. It starts around 5pm behind the church on Calle Galeana, and then heads east on Guadalupe Victoria, down Calle Aldama, west down Constitucion and
Ocampo to Seis Esquinas (6 Corners) and back to the San Andres church to a welcome of the exuberant and rousing pealing of bells, brass
bandas playing as several groups of
Danzantes Aztecas with their drummers, heralded by the blowing of conch shells, and
La Virgen, enter the church Atrium just before the twilight outdoor Mass as the sun sets - a truly dynamic and moving spectacular of jubilant and cacophonous sound healing.
After the Mass, people will gather in the Plaza when
La Virgen will ceremoniously be carried back to her home in the Chapel, where she will be serenaded by Mariachis, and honored by more
Danzantes outside. Later, there will be a
Banda playing for dancing and enjoyment, and around 10:30 or 11pm, there will be a
Castillo lit up in front of the Chapel on the Plaza - a preview of the San Andres fiesta in November which will have such events for 9 days straight, an awesome amount of fun.
So, after a wonderful breakfast and the knowledge that Mexico is not being invaded nor is it involved in a civil war, we went for a walk around town, Ajijic is a very small
town and we had been told that the streets were cobblestone. Cobblestone as I know it is much easier to walk on then these streets. I would say that Ajijic has streets built of rocks. They are beautiful and old but care must be taken by a klutz such as me to not trip.
There are many artisan stores as well as small bakeries and cafes in town.
Although the celebrations for the Virgin of the Rosary are not over yet, the Town is preparing for the next celebration, Dia de Muertos (The Day of the Dead). We saw many examples in town and as we walked along the Malecon.
Eleanor had arranged an appointment for me at the Total Body Care Spa which is just around the corner from where we are staying. I had booked a mani-pedi. It is a 90 minute process that begins by me laying on a bed with a little forehead massage and a lavender scented cloth over my eyes. It was one of the very best mani-pedis I have ever had for a total of less than $30 CAD.
Rick was waiting for me when I was finished at
the spa and we walked to the Plaza area where he practiced drinking his new favourite Mexican beer, Pacifico, and I tried a couple of wonderful Sangrias at a little outdoor bar.
We had dinner reservations at Ajijic Tango for dinner. This is the most popular restaurant in town and people come from Guadalajara on the weekend for steaks. We ordered a 26 ounce filet mignon which obviously we couldn’t even finish half of it. The remainder is sitting in our fridge waiting for the day we can eat again.
Back at our casita, we prepared for bed, this time knowing that we will be awakened at 5AM by the first of the
cohetes.
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