SAN CRISTOBAL: At the Cultural Crossroads

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The Yucatan was really one out of the box: flat, warm, seemingly unpopulated, bushy. Our shiny first class bus (there was no option) took us from this cultured and manicured Yucatan, and went uphill - a long way uphill. And as we went, we were treated to the promise of a more 'Mexican' Mexican experience. It started with the shiny bus breaking down, having left a trail of diesel along the road for who knows how far. Equipped with a swiss army knife, the driver's repair was limited to cutting off a length of perforated diesel line feeding the fuel filter, and waiting for a grimy second class bus to cheerfully deposit us in San Cristobal about 3 hours late.

San Cristobal straddles worlds so far removed from each other, and yet only a bus ride in distance. Being the most indigenous region of Mexico, it borders the plush Yucatan, the route up into central Mexico, and of course the border with the impoverished Guatemala.

The frigid evening air was a shock to the system after the Yucatan's balmy pleasantries, and the ensuing night was punctuated by Arlene's muffled grumbles from deep under the blankets of her single bed.

But San Cristobal was a stunning locale to explore. Being a major colonial centre on an important route, it inherited a wealth of old architecture and character. But it also inherited the ongoing resentment of the indigenous peoples, who rose under Subcomandante Marcos in the masked Zapatista uprisings recently. Taking the city by force of arms for long enough to make a point, and short enough to get the heck out before the real armed response of the army crushed them into their soil, the message made it through. Well - enough for the promises of change to come in. Alas their PR pedestal could only last so long, and the government does a great job of ignoring them and their issues, further deflating the international interest they so eloquently captivated in their dashing move.

Well equipped for us gringo types, some local cafes have gone to the effort of creating small scale cinemas for boutique films of interest. We caught a superb English language documentary about Fidel Castro's life, which was fascinating with Cuba fresh in our little travellers minds. San Cristobal also sports an excellent piece of tick the box tourism - a riverboat tour of the Canyon del Sumidero. Memorably cruising the boat past all manner of birdlife and alligators up to three metres long, our minds were instead clogged with the sights of rubbish throughout the waterway. The deep chasm hosting the river produced stationary eddies trapping thousands of floating plastic bottles and other detritus, making a huge mockery of the two park officers sitting on their padded arses fastidiously ensuring each member of the tour had paid their 'river conservation' fee.

Travelling is a privilege, and can also be a full-on 24hr occupation. So Arlene's birthday wish was to go to see James Bond, for that little slice of escapism. But alas, in Campeche the Spanish voice over cast had been prepared for the smashing release of this latest iteration of Bond, blond and all, making sure it was suitable for the home team. But San Cristobal came through in style, and it was popcorn and English Bond on the menu. Benj seemed to enjoy it too, although he didn't actually admit it...

But now it was crunch time - decisions had to be made: turn right and head up into the amazing region of Mexico city, or turn left and enter Guatemala's backblocks. Guatemala won out, and we left the pretty and hilly San Cristobal de las Casas and the lure of Mexico far behind.

Adios amigos de Mexico. Sus pais es increible, pero nosotros no podemos viajar mas a sus vistas. Hasta luego ahora.

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Photos

Enshrouded
This women was exquisitely worlds away from us, as she sat outside the Cathedral.

The Canyon
This piece of geology features on the regional flag, and produces a lovely waterway to cruise by tour.

What do you see first?
If you said the Alligator, you win first place. We sure saw the rubbish...

Hanging out
Churches and squares are a nice place to share some good company. This church was San Cristobals 'finest' baroque frontage.

One size fits ALL
No need for custom made here.

Museo Medicina Maya
This museum exhibited all things Medicinal in Mayan tradition. This still exhibition of chidbirth was accompanied by a complete video, which one of us found fascinating, and the other quite gruesome.

Decidedly Colonial
San Cristobals pretty colonial side.

Cathedral high on Christmas
This was a walk well worth taking, both for the Christmas atmosphere, but also the views at the top.

1 in a million
Arlene has tried hard to find a photo of Benj that she doesn't describe as goofy. Maybe she succeeded?

Water Management
And they giveth back to the river a little of what was taketh...

River conservation
It became obvious this fee didn't go to the river - a surprise for somewhere as progressive as Mexico.

Soil forrmation
The gradual movement of water and soil made these unusual formations overhanging the water.

Thousands of birds
But the driver was a little more interested in getting through the tour.

Alligator
Our first alligator sighting in the wild.

Quaintly Colonial
We stopped off in a nicely sized colonial town after the canyon visit.

And a church
well, the one that we saw.