CAMPECHE: A Thoroughly Civilised Life

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Well prepared for the rough and tumble of slugging the tourist routes through South and Central America, we were remarking on just how relaxed we were getting as travellers - arriving fresh off the bus to a new city, with no map, no idea of where to stay, or even which direction the central district was.

And it looked like it was about to bite us in the backside. Arriving at the bus terminal, we asked a departing tourist (Italian) about accommodation. Apparently it was all full as there was a large concert on. Rather than get an overnight bus out and miss the city of Campeche, we pulled a phone number from the Italian lonely planet of this tourist, called a hostel, and got a reservation easily.

The reason for the drain on accommodation was soon evident. Campeche was packing out with expectent people, as it was hosting a free concert of Andrea Bochelli in the absolutely resplendent plaza of this gorgeous walled colonial town. Unfortunately exhausted enough to miss the actual concert, we instead savoured the faint sounds floating across the city from our hostel rooftop, finished off spectacularly by a massive bombardment of fireworks of all colours. It was a beautiful sight.

Being terrified of English pirates, who had a tendency to sack and pillage towns looking a little more wealthy and a little less fortified, the young city surrounded itself with walls and forts. And some of these have been nicely preserved as museums brimming with canons on the rooftops. So we had some fun walking the fortifications, and looking backwards in time to crises that were potentially life and death struggles, rather than video games or fanciful movies.

And needing fanciful movies for that little slice of escapist 'normality', Arlene's birthday wish was to see a movie - the blond Bond. Alas the Spanish voice over cast had been very industrious, and had mauled the script for the local market, leaving us (read: Arlene) forlornly wandering back to the hostel empty-handed and still full-headed.

The thing that struck us the most about Campeche was its absolutely lovely environment to live in. It has evolved into a remarkably pleasant urban environ with manicured public central areas that are well used and appreciated - it was a pleasure for us just floating along with the locals.

Gracias amigos de Campeche. Tu tienes una ciudad bonita.

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Photos

Bang
The masive bombardment of fireworks was a spectacular finish to the Bochelli concert - and not just the fireworks.

Enjoying the waterfront
Locals and wildlife alike making the most of Campeche's settled Gulf of Mexico waterfront.

Warming up while it cooled down
Four hours before Andrea Bochelli took the stage next to the cathedral, these people were packing in to get their seats, and enjoy their beautiful surrounds.

Not so old soldier
The purchaser of this suit for his child probably had enough money to not complain when the kid had outgrown more than just his shoes...

Go on, Make My Day...
These defences were essential to keep this little town safe from heavily armed pirates intent on more than just taking loot.

Classic Campeche
The colonial character within the walled art of town was unmistakeable, and very pretty. The only tough thing would be finding a car park.

Campeche's Plaza
Stunning public areas surrounded by the trimmings of a well to do and self respecting colonial town.